#3 would be the next cylinder mark on the damper flange. The next would be #6, and this would be at the factory index mark. The 120 degree marks you previously put on the flange would be good for cylinders 2 and 4 after #6.

 

Haynes manuals are good for a few things like showing photos of brake work and a few other odds and ends, but that's about it. Just tuck it away for reference use.

The Factory Service Manual is about the only thing you'll need, other than guidance from experienced people here on the Forum. The FSM contains mistakes here and there that's why experience comes in handy.

As far as having the cylinder at TDC to torque down the rocker cap screws, the FSM doesn't say to do this but experience shows that when doing it you avoid twisting the rocker bridges and obtaining a proper torque on the cap screws. Of course, it's required when determining lifter preload.

 

I fired it up today. It didn't sound real good. Something taping from somewhere under the valve cover. I couldn't really locate it.

I torqued each exhaust and intake rocker 20lbs in order 153624 when the piston was at the top of the cylinder for each in the firing order. I determined this by removing the spark plugs and watching the cylinder move up and down. I had someone else watch the back cylinders why i turned the crank.

Where do i go next? I do have the gas and matches still handy.

 

What oil and oil filter are you using?

 

Fram tough gaurd filter and cheap 10w 30 walmart oil. Before i did the head i had changed the oil and let it run for 30 seconds so there wouldnt be watery oil all over sitting because i didnt have a chance to jump right on fixing it.
That oil was still in there on start up. i had planned on running it for a few minutes to gather some of the watery oil that remained in the motor. Then change it with new oil. So the old filter is still on there and some walmart oil that a put in there a month ago and got ran for 30 seconds.
Before i started it after the new head i looked at the dip stick. It had clean oil on it. After this last start up with the new head the oil was all milky on the dipstick again. Could there be that much water residue still in the motor?

 

Ha, I know what you mean! Reminds me of a friend of mine, when the floor furnace in his old house caught fire. He said, "I made the biggest mistake of my life. I called the fire truck - I should have called the gas truck!"

 

After searching around i noticed that most people talked about putting assembly lube on the rockers,pivits, and push rods. I didnt do that. Just poured some 10-30 on top of the rockers before i put the valve cover on. Maybe thats a issue?
I guess the only thing to do is change oil and filter reassemble each rocker with assembly lube and torque them all again at TDC.

 

Just replace the oil with fresh 5W-30 or 10W-30 and use a Wix 51515 or NAPA Gold 1515 filter. Add a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in place of one quart of the regular oil, then run the engine for 1,000 miles and replace the oil with Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 and a fresh Wix or Napa Gold filter.

No need to redo the rockers with assembly lube. The motor oil you used should be okay as is.

 

I have never used assembly lube in my 50+ years of engine re-building. Just regular motor or a thin film of grease is fine unless motor is going to be stored awhile.

 

I'll change the oil in the filter tonight. hopefully that does it the tap does sound quite significant.

 

It takes awhile for the MMO to work, but if it never gets better, I'd say you need to yard the head off and inspect/replace the lifters.

 

Well i finally figured out why i was getting a tapping from my rockers. The machine shop that had built my motor a year ago must have lost one of my rocker arm bolts. They replaced it with a bolt one inch longer than your standard bolt. So the bolt would bottom out and not hold that rocker arm tight when you torqued it. This also caused a broken rocker arm bridge which i discovered on the initial head removal.
I replaced the bolt with one the proper length and now shes quiet as could be. No tapping. That machine shop has gone out of business. Makes you wonder why they closed their doors.

 

Butchers!

Makes one wonder what will pop up next because of their butchery.

 

Thanks for letting us know. Just curious though you didn't notice the longer bolt when had the rockers off. That bolt should have stood out like a sore thumb.