Pulling motor for replacement
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 276
Likes: 0
From: Hillsboro, OR
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If it ain't one thing, it's another.... Now I sprung a coolant leak from one of the freeze plugs...
I have acess to another motor, I'm pretty sure it's an '87, so it should be a direct exchange right?
If yes I'm going to replace all the seals and freeze plugs... Oil pump, and whatever I can while I'm in there...
Is there a write up for pulling and installing an engine? It's been awhile.

I have acess to another motor, I'm pretty sure it's an '87, so it should be a direct exchange right?
If yes I'm going to replace all the seals and freeze plugs... Oil pump, and whatever I can while I'm in there...
Is there a write up for pulling and installing an engine? It's been awhile.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 864
Likes: 4
From: Arlington, Texas
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
X2 on the top two bell housing bolts. Mine were a royal PITA to get out when I did my swap. I ended up pulling the center console, unbolting the shift linkage bracket, and removing the trans tunnel cover plate. This allowed me to get a nice straight shot at those bolts, once I loosened the T-case crossmember and lowered the trans a bit, that is.
Another few thoughts..
While you've got everything out, get yourself an original Mopar crankshaft position sensor and replace it while you have the motor out and its easy to get to.
Be prepared to cut through the exhaust manifold flange bolts with a Dremel or sawzall, if you haven't ever loosened them before or coated them with anti-seize.
Arm yourself with ziplock baggies and a marker to store and label where all the bolts came from.
It's much easier to take the whole front grill and header panel out, and remove the hood, to do the swap.
Put new mounts in while your at it. About $8 each at Rock Auto.
If it were me, I'd get a full gasket set for the donor motor and take care of all of that before I dropped it in.
Clean the hell out of all your ground connections before putting the motor in. Not just on the motor itself, but every one of them under the hood as well. Easier and faster with it all apart.
Another few thoughts..
While you've got everything out, get yourself an original Mopar crankshaft position sensor and replace it while you have the motor out and its easy to get to.
Be prepared to cut through the exhaust manifold flange bolts with a Dremel or sawzall, if you haven't ever loosened them before or coated them with anti-seize.
Arm yourself with ziplock baggies and a marker to store and label where all the bolts came from.
It's much easier to take the whole front grill and header panel out, and remove the hood, to do the swap.
Put new mounts in while your at it. About $8 each at Rock Auto.
If it were me, I'd get a full gasket set for the donor motor and take care of all of that before I dropped it in.
Clean the hell out of all your ground connections before putting the motor in. Not just on the motor itself, but every one of them under the hood as well. Easier and faster with it all apart.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
I happen to remember, the last freeze plug I bought was 57c. Pulling the engine (and flywheel), on that 6 cyl, 66 Ford truck, and putting it all back took the whole weekend, but I really did only spend 57c.
Are you sure which freeze plug? (I believe there is at least one on the back of the head..)
WOW! If I was you I'd watch for arrowheads>>> The first people of the Tualatin Valley were the Atfalati or Tualaty tribe of the Kalapuya, who inhabited the region for up to 10,000 years before white settlers arrived.
Are you sure which freeze plug? (I believe there is at least one on the back of the head..)
WOW! If I was you I'd watch for arrowheads>>> The first people of the Tualatin Valley were the Atfalati or Tualaty tribe of the Kalapuya, who inhabited the region for up to 10,000 years before white settlers arrived.
Last edited by DFlintstone; Jul 13, 2012 at 06:32 PM.
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,577
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
X2 on the top two bell housing bolts. Mine were a royal PITA to get out when I did my swap. I ended up pulling the center console, unbolting the shift linkage bracket, and removing the trans tunnel cover plate. This allowed me to get a nice straight shot at those bolts, once I loosened the T-case crossmember and lowered the trans a bit, that is.
Another few thoughts..
While you've got everything out, get yourself an original Mopar crankshaft position sensor and replace it while you have the motor out and its easy to get to.
Be prepared to cut through the exhaust manifold flange bolts with a Dremel or sawzall, if you haven't ever loosened them before or coated them with anti-seize.
Arm yourself with ziplock baggies and a marker to store and label where all the bolts came from.
It's much easier to take the whole front grill and header panel out, and remove the hood, to do the swap.
Put new mounts in while your at it. About $8 each at Rock Auto.
If it were me, I'd get a full gasket set for the donor motor and take care of all of that before I dropped it in.
Clean the hell out of all your ground connections before putting the motor in. Not just on the motor itself, but every one of them under the hood as well. Easier and faster with it all apart.
Another few thoughts..
While you've got everything out, get yourself an original Mopar crankshaft position sensor and replace it while you have the motor out and its easy to get to.
Be prepared to cut through the exhaust manifold flange bolts with a Dremel or sawzall, if you haven't ever loosened them before or coated them with anti-seize.
Arm yourself with ziplock baggies and a marker to store and label where all the bolts came from.
It's much easier to take the whole front grill and header panel out, and remove the hood, to do the swap.
Put new mounts in while your at it. About $8 each at Rock Auto.
If it were me, I'd get a full gasket set for the donor motor and take care of all of that before I dropped it in.
Clean the hell out of all your ground connections before putting the motor in. Not just on the motor itself, but every one of them under the hood as well. Easier and faster with it all apart.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
"Flintstones Bolt Management"
Make a slice in an old oil jug. Stick the bolts for that section through the slot.
Later, add solvent, (or kerosene or diesel) Slosh, agitate, drain. Then complete the cut to access your tray of cleaned bolts.
Make a slice in an old oil jug. Stick the bolts for that section through the slot.
Later, add solvent, (or kerosene or diesel) Slosh, agitate, drain. Then complete the cut to access your tray of cleaned bolts.
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::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,577
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
You could qualify to be the next Queen of Clean!!
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,577
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,577
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
The regimental motto was Nemo me impune lacessit (no one attacks me with impunity).
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_W...nd_Regiment%29
But really a friendly bunch over all. (I did post my tartan in the 2.5 Diesel thread)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_W...nd_Regiment%29
But really a friendly bunch over all. (I did post my tartan in the 2.5 Diesel thread)


