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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Hey guys and gals. So I am attaching a photo I'd like for you to take a look at. Take careful note of the temp gauge.
That is the operating temp of my 1999 Cherokee Classic 4.0 auto, here in Canada.
The temp was at that level, with these factors:
- After 20 mins of driving, max speed was 80km/h
- Outside temp was around 40F (7ish Celcius)
Today it was even a bit lower on the gauge (colder day), between the two smaller indication "lines" after, between 40 and half way (so in the photo, the needle would be a little more left)
With winter coming along, I want to make sure I don't need a new thermostat too late, and have my heating suck
In the SUMMER months, on the HOTTEST days (30C outside and humid), my needle is a little bit under Halfway, and only ONCE did it actually touch the middle mark (100), and that was in 15-20mins of stop and go traffic on a hot as hell day.
So.... would it be worth looking into a thermostat, or as a new XJ owner, is it just part of the deal we get buying one.
Basically, does that look totally normal to everyone? Or is it running too cold?
Also.... how long does it take an XJ 4.0 to warm up fully (and give good interior heating), in a cold climate? Mine eventually does get hot, and gets toasty inside, but it takes a damn while!
BONUS QUESTION:
For a brief moment, I had hard steering today (literally only once). I think my pump is whining. Given I've never owned a Pitman arm type vehicle before, is it still the same diagnosis: Get a new power steering pump? Or could the whine be from the box? (Fluid levels seem on par)
My drive to work at 30MPH / 50KMPH in some stop start traffic has me at 100 in about 5 minutes. My temp can creap past 100 but only slightly and always cools back down near instantly.
It certainly sounds like you're running cooler than normal.
I'll leave the recommendations to someone with more experience in the cooling system.
My drive to work at 30MPH / 50KMPH in some stop start traffic has me at 100 in about 5 minutes. My temp can creap past 100 but only slightly and always cools back down near instantly.
It certainly sounds like you're running cooler than normal.
I'll leave the recommendations to someone with more experience in the cooling system.
Yea, THAT sounds more correct. It shouldn't take me almost 15 mins to get to full heat, in the winter time I swear I will still be blowing cold air in the cabin, once I arrive at my destination (usually 15 kilometers away, or more).
That's a classic symptom of a stuck thermostat. Stuck open, especially the long time to get warm issue.
As for the power steering pump. If the pump is whining you will know it. I wouldn't worry about replacing it right now, you could have just had a small air bubble in the line or something.
Oddest temp gauge ever. If we subtract 40 from 125 and divide the remainder by the number of increment bars on your gauge we end up with 10.625° per line, making the 100° increment placement incorrect. The actual (proportional) value of the 12 o'clock bar should be 82.5°. If we go with that logic, your actual (indicated) temp is a shade under 72°.
That said, a bad thermostat can fail anywhere from a fully closed, partially open to full open position. It sounds like your thermostat is stuck partially, or fully open because the fluid is not staying in the block long enough to let the engine attain and maintain normal operating temp. I'm surprised there's no fault code thrown from the computer because the temp sensor's job is to report a normal operating temp. I'd replace the thermostat and see if that resolves it.
That's a classic symptom of a stuck thermostat. Stuck open, especially the long time to get warm issue.
As for the power steering pump. If the pump is whining you will know it. I wouldn't worry about replacing it right now, you could have just had a small air bubble in the line or something.
Originally Posted by Idunno
Oddest temp gauge ever. If we subtract 40 from 125 and divide the remainder by the number of increment bars on your gauge we end up with 10.625° per line, making the 100° increment placement incorrect. The actual (proportional) value of the 12 o'clock bar should be 82.5°. If we go with that logic, your actual (indicated) temp is a shade under 72°.
That said, a bad thermostat can fail anywhere from a fully closed, partially open to full open position. It sounds like your thermostat is stuck partially, or fully open because the fluid is not staying in the block long enough to let the engine attain and maintain normal operating temp. I'm surprised there's no fault code thrown from the computer because the temp sensor's job is to report a normal operating temp. I'd replace the thermostat and see if that resolves it.
Thanks guys, that was my suspicion. So here is my followup question: Should I order a 195F temp thermostat? 180F? What temp should I look at, because I know I read on this forum somewhere, where people would try installing a 195F or lower, to try and get the 4.0 to run cooler, but they affected their MPG due to it running colder... so ideally let's avoid doing that...
I am leaning towards the 195F
Also..... Yes. I know. I agree - the gauge is absolutely bonkers. I never understood it either, it is very disproportionate and quite fitting for a wacky Canadian XJ.
Thanks guys, that was my suspicion. So here is my followup question: Should I order a 195F temp thermostat? 180F? What temp should I look at, because I know I read on this forum somewhere, where people would try installing a 195F or lower, to try and get the 4.0 to run cooler, but they affected their MPG due to it running colder... so ideally let's avoid doing that...
I am leaning towards the 195F
Also..... Yes. I know. I agree - the gauge is absolutely bonkers. I never understood it either, it is very disproportionate and quite fitting for a wacky Canadian XJ.
195 is OEM stick with that. Engines need to run at the proper temperature. Running lower temps can cause excessive fuel consumption and increased engine wear.
When is the last time you checked your radiator fluid? Pop the hood on a COLD engine, remove the radiator cap and make sure the coolant is right up to the rim and about to leak out. Just a thought you might be low on coolant.
The power steering issue could be related to an accessory (a/c compressor, waterpump, alternator, idler pulley, power steering pump) item locking up momentarily. I think you noticed it through the power steering, because that's how you are physically connected to your engine accessories.
Hows this for a thought, your waterpump is failing. You've developed a wobble in the waterpump, because the bearing is going round and round. This could be your whinnying, due to the wobble. The water pump has developed a leak and could be leaking through the weep hole. This will lower your coolant level, indicating a low coolant temperature sensor reading. The waterpump momentarily locked up, and you noticed it through the power steering, because the belt isn't able to turn the pump.
Oddest temp gauge ever. If we subtract 40 from 125 and divide the remainder by the number of increment bars on your gauge we end up with 10.625° per line, making the 100° increment placement incorrect. .
From 40 to 100 every line equals 15. From 100 to 125 every line equals 5. Weird.......
Replace with ONLY a MOPAR factory 195* thermostat.
On a 20* day, I have heat in 2 miles with no warm up time on numerous 4.0s. I don't know exactly what's special about those stats, but I've tried others and had poor results.
Replace with ONLY a MOPAR factory 195* thermostat.
On a 20* day, I have heat in 2 miles with no warm up time on numerous 4.0s. I don't know exactly what's special about those stats, but I've tried others and had poor results.
I've been running a First Line stat for over a year without fault, First Line being a common manufacturer that our parts supplier uses.
195 is OEM stick with that. Engines need to run at the proper temperature. Running lower temps can cause excessive fuel consumption and increased engine wear.
Precisely one of my biggest worries - not having ANY machinery (engine, hydraulics, anything with moving parts of metal on metal with oil films etc) working at proper temps REALLY reduces their life.
To be consistent, Canadians should have different units for Volts and RPM too.
Working on it, I am petitioning the gov't. I was thinking maybe Ticks per Second, or Orbits per Hour, for RPM, and then for Volts, Sparkies. 12Sprk, 120sprk in my house, etc.
Follow up question: I will replace my Stat anyway, since it's probably never been replaced, BUT - I turned my mechanical/clutch fan by hand today and it was stiff/there was resistance to turn it (on a dead cold motor, parked overnight). Should it not spin freely and not be engaged? Or is that normal?
My fear being that my fan is constantly stuck and cooling the engine excessively.