Ok I'm totally confused! The cover on the rear differential is definitely the cover from a Dana 35. When I pulled the cover it said (stamped into the housing) Dana 052 1. The tag on the differential has these numbers 53003516 and 3.08 605323-1.
The other info is...
42965
305-8
REV N
11-1-87
I have written another post about a broken pinion bolt.
Now it appears to me that it isn't a Dana 35.
Where the pinion bolt was suppose to be, was a roll pin, that I got out with an easy out. When I pulled the pinion shaft there is a gear on each axel and no C-clips, like my Chilton's book says. outside of the differential says 35C on both sides of the housing. Some one must of done a switch. I took out the nuts threw the hole in the axel and I'll bet I need a puller to pull the axil?
Any one know what's going on here?

Please post soon, so I can get the axels out and change the seals.
Thanks! John

 

Early dana 35s had no c clips just unbolt four bolts that hold axle to housing and slide out .

 

Match the covers......

 

This plate holds axle in under drum theres a hole in axle to remove bolts from plate .....

 

Freedgr, thanks for the quick reply. The cover is definitely a Dana 35.
Did the early pinion shafts have roll pins? It makes sense, no reason to take the differential a part...no c clips.
So I use a slide hammer to pull the axle shaft?
I don't understand the rest of the procedure to replace the outer seal which is leaking gear oil all over my brake shoes.
Have any simple instructions? It appears you have to remove the retaining ring and bearing to replace the seal?
Is there a outer and inner seal? Can't picture how to put in the seal if ring and bearing go on first and the seal last?
Very confusing...maybe I should just do it.
The Chilton's manual didn't help any.
Do you need to buy a new retaining ring and bearing to replace the axle seal?
Thanks!-John PS. I'm not trying to be difficult.

 

This job is really pretty simple to do. Pull the drums. Pull the brake parts. Pull the four hub bolts. Take your drum and put it on backwards with the lug nuts holding it on. Take a BFH and message' the axle out by hitting the brake drum. it shouldn't take much and you can easily do this without doing any damage to the drum. Once you have the hub free from the housing slide the axle out. Now the fun part. Get out your dremel with a cut off wheel. Carefully cut as far as you can through the bearing and the races WITHOUT hitting the axle shaft. Once you have gone far enough get a good sharp chisel and drive it into your cuts. It won't take much to fracture the cuts opening up the bearings and the races. You can then slide them off. Putting the new stuff on is easy if you have a long pipe and a brass punch. I just slide the new seal on followed by the bearings and races in the right order. I then take a long pipe which is actually fence pipe and simply set the bearing and race in place by taping the pipe while slid over the axle. The brass punch can be used to make sure they have set all the way. Once the are set then slide your axle back in. line the seal up and you can then tap a bit with the drum again to start it. I then use the bolts and with equal tightening suck the hub back in. I did mine 2 weeks ago. My buddy's a week ago and help another guy do his last night. All went really well and no issues. The hardest part is the cutting of the old bearings and seal and then taping the new back on.

Just dive into it and google the procedure there are some great right ups on the subject.

Black89

 

Ok! I'll give it a try.
No one around here to help me out.
I know there is a guy about 25 miles from here that has at least 6 0r 7 jeeps in his drive way. Might have to go visit him tomorrow.
The drum Idea sound good to me...I' going to try that right now.
I don't have a Dremel tool, but I heard drilling a hole in the ring works.
Also heard that heating the bearing works?
Black89, thank you! Mines...darkbrown89
After getting the seal and brakes done, I have to put in a fuel pump in the tank.
Lots of fun!-John

 

My 89 D35 was the same as yours. Roll-pin and no c-clipss. I originally thought something was wrong too.

 

How did you get the axle out?
I have tried the drum trick and have been beating on it for a half an hour now.
It appears to have moved out about 3/8 of an inch....so far.
Any advice?
Thanks! -John

 

Yah!!! Got it! Used a bigger BF Hammer.
Yes! Feeling good now!
Your friend! -John

 

Good to hear. The best way is with a slide hammer that bolts to the axle flange with the lug nuts.

 

Good to hear your getting it. Be careful drilling them. A good cold chisel that is sharp and strong will cut the race and the bearing just be careful not to hit the axle shaft. Heat will work as well to expand them a bit but then you have a hot race to deal with. Take your time you'll get it done.

Black89

 

Another question...the Chilton's book didn't say how to remove the inner seal. Just how to install it. I got the seal out, but to put in the new one, do I have to remove the bearing race?
If I replace the retaining ring and the bearing, shouldn't I replace the race also?
I know I always replaced the race, when replacing bearings on the old cars drums and rotors. How do you get the race out?
Last question (maybe) is the outer seal going to just go into place? The book says, "Position and align the seal retainer and brake support plate and install replacement nuts".
The old pinion bolt and c clips was much easier.
John

 

New bearing should come with a race. There is a tool that goes in there to pull it out but I can usually just get it out with a long screw driver. There is nothing holding it in, just a snug fit.

 

The race should just slide out. Some come easy others need to be pried on a bit. take a screwdriver and pry on one side then the other. Just walk it around and it should come out. As far as the seal goes just get it on the axle and line it up nice and easy as you put it back in you should be able to push on the backing plate and get it started. They go in pretty easy.

Black89