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Problems installing motor.

Old 06-12-2016, 08:10 PM
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Default Problems installing motor.

So I have a 98 4door 4.0/aw4/231 stock suspension. My head gasket blew do to over heating it severely for about 10-12 miles. The plastic tank blew a giant hole when I flexed real hard and turned it off. Lol I have 198k all stock. So I got a parts jeep with a brand new motor it's still has the paper barcode on the valve cover. It's a 95 block I also have a 99 intake and i want to do 4.6 ford injectors and bored throttle body. So I have got both motors out and trying to put the newer 95 block in. So when I am trying to get the two big bolts started I can only get one side or the other. It feels like it be end of the transmission does not want to go into the hole on the back of the motor. So the 95 block came out of a manual I have switched over the flywheel and flexplate. And I dinged up the hole on the back of the motor a little when I was pulling the (pilot bearing?) out on the back of the block but it is very minimal. I'm sorry for the long post just trying to give as many details as possible.
Old 06-13-2016, 08:08 AM
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The engine that was in a manual trans vehicle probably has the pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft. You need to remove it.
Old 06-13-2016, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
The engine that was in a manual trans vehicle probably has the pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft. You need to remove it.
Yeah I pulled the pilot bearing and I dinged up the the hole for the pilot to go into. My question is where the trans and motor connect an exact fit? No room for error at all? Also do I need to drop the tail end of the trans to get proper alignment?
Old 06-13-2016, 10:35 AM
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I usually get a jack under tail of the trans, a jack stand in the middle, and another jack at the front.

Then, I get the engine lined up with the engine mounts and try to "jack" the transmission into position, and then "swing" the motor backwards to seat the input shaft. You need the input shaft of the torque converter to "seat" in the flywheel, but it wont clear the engine unless you have a small gap while lowering the engine block. Once you have the input shaft lined up, you can line up the rest of the bellhousing bolts. I usually do engine mounts last - easier to line up 2 engine mount bolts than a transmission
Old 06-13-2016, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by investinwaffles
I usually get a jack under tail of the trans, a jack stand in the middle, and another jack at the front.

Then, I get the engine lined up with the engine mounts and try to "jack" the transmission into position, and then "swing" the motor backwards to seat the input shaft. You need the input shaft of the torque converter to "seat" in the flywheel, but it wont clear the engine unless you have a small gap while lowering the engine block. Once you have the input shaft lined up, you can line up the rest of the bellhousing bolts. I usually do engine mounts last - easier to line up 2 engine mount bolts than a transmission
Man this is awesome info when I get home I'm gonna try that I'll let you know the results! Thank you so much!!!
Old 06-13-2016, 01:02 PM
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The converter should be well inside the bellhousing be spinning and pushing the converter back--you should feel 2-3 drops as it gets into the sun-gears of the pump and the pump splines if it is not in all the way it will be hard to get the motor to bolt up and could brake the front pump ,ask me how I know
Old 06-13-2016, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by winginit
The converter should be well inside the bellhousing be spinning and pushing the converter back--you should feel 2-3 drops as it gets into the sun-gears of the pump and the pump splines if it is not in all the way it will be hard to get the motor to bolt up and could brake the front pump ,ask me how I know
Ok so can I do this with the block out them slide the block in?
Old 06-13-2016, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by investinwaffles
I usually get a jack under tail of the trans, a jack stand in the middle, and another jack at the front.

Then, I get the engine lined up with the engine mounts and try to "jack" the transmission into position, and then "swing" the motor backwards to seat the input shaft. You need the input shaft of the torque converter to "seat" in the flywheel, but it wont clear the engine unless you have a small gap while lowering the engine block. Once you have the input shaft lined up, you can line up the rest of the bellhousing bolts. I usually do engine mounts last - easier to line up 2 engine mount bolts than a transmission
This worked like a charm!!! Thank you sir!
Old 06-13-2016, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 98r3d4l1t3rxj
This worked like a charm!!! Thank you sir!
Awesome! Congratulations, sir.
Almost no better feeling than getting the bellhousing bolts to thread in with no binding. I can feel the endorphin rush when I start turning the bolt, and realize that it is threading in perfectly. I usually just lay there after getting the first two threaded in and bask in the glory

I actually helped my friend R&R a motor in his Isuzu Trooper on Saturday and Sunday this past weekend, and that's exactly what I did. Never done it on an XJ but its been the same for my Mustang and pretty much everything else I wrench on.

Forgot to mention, if the transmission has "clocked" itself to one direction, I do the same thing, but I put a Jack Stand under the tail end, a Jack in the middle (on the trans mount usually), and I will put the front one on either side. Then, you basically just jack the front of the trans, which should "spin" the transmission whichever direction you need.
After that, just pray to the universe, do a raindance, and sacrifice a goat and the engine and trans will magically line up and drop in place.

Last edited by investinwaffles; 06-13-2016 at 04:14 PM.
Old 06-13-2016, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by investinwaffles
Awesome! Congratulations, sir.
Almost no better feeling than getting the bellhousing bolts to thread in with no binding. I can feel the endorphins when you start turning the bolt, and realize that it is threading in perfectly

I actually helped my friend R&R a motor in his Isuzu Trooper on Saturday and Sunday this past weekend, and that's exactly what I did. Never done it on an XJ but its been the same for my Mustang and pretty much everything else I wrench on.

Forgot to mention, if the transmission has "clocked" itself to one direction, I do the same thing, but I put a Jack Stand under the tail end, a Jack in the middle (on the trans mount usually), and I will put the front one on either side. Then, you basically just jack the front of the trans, which should "spin" the transmission whichever direction you need.
After that, just pray to the universe, do a raindance, and sacrifice a goat and the engine and trans will magically line up and drop in place.
Haha raindance was in order. My problem was I was putting it on the mounts first and that was binding it and was making it hell on me. Lol thank you all for the tips.

Old 06-13-2016, 09:20 PM
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Pretty!
Old 06-14-2016, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by BillyBoy
Pretty!
Why thank you sir! I've got everything back together and I can't get her to fire up. Couple questions. If the ignition timing is off will the spark plugs still throw a spark? I am getting spark and the fuel rail is pressurized I had to swap the sensor that is right above the oil filter as the plug was different. I am also putting on a 99+ intake and had to move the sensor on the intake a little closer cause the plug wasn't long enough.
Old 06-14-2016, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by BillyBoy
Pretty!
WOW that's odd because I think of your Cherokee when I have sex with my wife.....
Old 06-14-2016, 06:37 PM
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95 OBD-I dizzy in a 98 OBD-II ? No idea but maybe an issue....maybe not!
Old 06-14-2016, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
95 OBD-I dizzy in a 98 OBD-II ? No idea but maybe an issue....maybe not!
It came out of a 97 that was running. Any ideas?

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