Power window
I have a 99 jeep Cherokee sport.
The drive side window will not roll down but it can roll down all the other windows. Also the other windows can only be controlled by the driver door. I'm assuming that's something to do with the window lock.
The drive side window will not roll down but it can roll down all the other windows. Also the other windows can only be controlled by the driver door. I'm assuming that's something to do with the window lock.
Banned
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 2,379
Likes: 18
From: Florida
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: Golen 4.6L
You ought to get into the door and verify that the motor works by applying some power directly to it. If that works, verify the continuity of the circuit to the motor with a multimeter to rule out broken wires. You can get a cheap multimeter at Harbor Freight that will do the job (I actually got one for free with one of their coupons). Or you can just jump power to the switch end of the wires and see if the motor works, which will tell you that power flows through the wires okay.
If the motor is good and the wiring is good, it's probably the door control module (the "master switch" mentioned above), which is a single unit that has all those switches in it. The little rocker switch contacts in the switches get corroded over time and stop working. You can actually take it apart and clean the feet, but they'll just corrode again and stop working after a few weeks.
Rock Auto has a replacement Standard Motor Products DCM (they call it a "Door Lock Switch") for $79. A genuine Mopar switch from the dealer will run you about $185.
If you're a "throw money at it and see if it works" kind of guy, you can start with the switch, because that's most likely where the problem is. Or you could source the switch locally, see if that fixes the problem, then return it if it doesn't.
If the motor is good and the wiring is good, it's probably the door control module (the "master switch" mentioned above), which is a single unit that has all those switches in it. The little rocker switch contacts in the switches get corroded over time and stop working. You can actually take it apart and clean the feet, but they'll just corrode again and stop working after a few weeks.
Rock Auto has a replacement Standard Motor Products DCM (they call it a "Door Lock Switch") for $79. A genuine Mopar switch from the dealer will run you about $185.
If you're a "throw money at it and see if it works" kind of guy, you can start with the switch, because that's most likely where the problem is. Or you could source the switch locally, see if that fixes the problem, then return it if it doesn't.
You ought to get into the door and verify that the motor works by applying some power directly to it. If that works, verify the continuity of the circuit to the motor with a multimeter to rule out broken wires. You can get a cheap multimeter at Harbor Freight that will do the job (I actually got one for free with one of their coupons). Or you can just jump power to the switch end of the wires and see if the motor works, which will tell you that power flows through the wires okay.
If the motor is good and the wiring is good, it's probably the door control module (the "master switch" mentioned above), which is a single unit that has all those switches in it. The little rocker switch contacts in the switches get corroded over time and stop working. You can actually take it apart and clean the feet, but they'll just corrode again and stop working after a few weeks.
Rock Auto has a replacement Standard Motor Products DCM (they call it a "Door Lock Switch") for $79. A genuine Mopar switch from the dealer will run you about $185.
If you're a "throw money at it and see if it works" kind of guy, you can start with the switch, because that's most likely where the problem is. Or you could source the switch locally, see if that fixes the problem, then return it if it doesn't.
If the motor is good and the wiring is good, it's probably the door control module (the "master switch" mentioned above), which is a single unit that has all those switches in it. The little rocker switch contacts in the switches get corroded over time and stop working. You can actually take it apart and clean the feet, but they'll just corrode again and stop working after a few weeks.
Rock Auto has a replacement Standard Motor Products DCM (they call it a "Door Lock Switch") for $79. A genuine Mopar switch from the dealer will run you about $185.
If you're a "throw money at it and see if it works" kind of guy, you can start with the switch, because that's most likely where the problem is. Or you could source the switch locally, see if that fixes the problem, then return it if it doesn't.
Banned
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 2,379
Likes: 18
From: Florida
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: Golen 4.6L
Sounds like the window regulator is stripped. If so, that's easy. Just get another one from the junk yard or order one online. Getting one from a DIY junk yard is helpful because you can see how everything goes together on a junker before you start taking your own door apart.
I would pull the interior panel on the door and do some noggin poking first to make sure the window or part of the mechanism is not just stuck.
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CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 4,172
Likes: 4
From: Riviera, Texas
Year: 1998 Sport
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
So wait, you can hear the motor running, but the window doesn't move? That's not the switch then. Is it making any grinding noises?
Sounds like the window regulator is stripped. If so, that's easy. Just get another one from the junk yard or order one online. Getting one from a DIY junk yard is helpful because you can see how everything goes together on a junker before you start taking your own door apart.
I would pull the interior panel on the door and do some noggin poking first to make sure the window or part of the mechanism is not just stuck.
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