Power locks will unlock but will not lock
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
My 99 that I picked up yesterday had a remote start in it, but was missing the module. The power lock/unlock would not work with the switch. I came home today and removed all the remote start wiring, and my doors will now unlock with the door switch. (I don't have a remote for the keyless entry). I tried it when I got done, and it will now unlock, but won't lock. Key is out of the ignition when I tried it. Any ideas?
I'm having the same issues in my 98. I changed out the passenger side controls and still it only unlocks. At this point i'm betting on the craptastic wires that run between the door and body. I picked up the driver,passenger, and hatch harness at a pull a part, i'm going to depin them and replace the wires with some good quality ones this winter. I hate wiring lol.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yeah, I am partial to wiring...lol The main controls is actually on the passenger side from what I understand. I am going to a u pull it sat. in hopes to get some switches, interior pieces, and a front driveshaft.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 580
Likes: 0
From: Saginaw Mi area
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Not sure about other years, but the Service manual for my '94 shows a relay for lock, and another for un-lock. Maybe swapping relays around will find out if one is bad, or something else is the problem. Probably cleaning the spades on the relays while they are pulled out would be a good idea also..
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Nope, 97+ just has one to control it...I ended up figuring it out...It is the switch panels....I have to pull up on the switch and then it will lock...Going to salvage yard tomorrow to pull some stuff including the switch panels.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Turned out to be my passender side switch panel. I didn't find one at the salvage yard but pulled my door panel off. To my surprise it was just the circuit board. There was no plastic housing and it had been zip tied to the door panel. The contacts on the switches were dirty and I cleaned them with a wire brush and it works just fine now...going to buy a new switch panel so that it will bolt up but yay!
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 580
Likes: 0
From: Saginaw Mi area
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Good find !
My driver's electric door lock didn't work since I owned it, so I finally removed the trim panel. The connector was un-plugged, and just hanging there, and I believe the door panel and water shield have never been off, so it's an assembly line screw-up probably. Lock works good when connected !
My driver's electric door lock didn't work since I owned it, so I finally removed the trim panel. The connector was un-plugged, and just hanging there, and I believe the door panel and water shield have never been off, so it's an assembly line screw-up probably. Lock works good when connected !
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Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Staten Island, NY
Year: 1994
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: inline 6
Same problem (94 J GCL ZJ). Found ground for door "lock" (not unlock) goes through chime module (above hood release). Mine was in sitting disconnected in the center console!
Connected chime, continously chimed (explains why it was disconnected), but that's another investigation.
When chime was connected doors would lock but only when ignition was turned to on position. When in off position the lock did not lock (unlock only).
Before investigating all the things that can cause continuous chime though I'd just replace the chime module.
Any thoughts out there before I waste 50 bucks?
I've disconnected the round metal speaker from inside the module but concerned it may still be a low battery draw (only drive it once a week).
D
Connected chime, continously chimed (explains why it was disconnected), but that's another investigation.
When chime was connected doors would lock but only when ignition was turned to on position. When in off position the lock did not lock (unlock only).
Before investigating all the things that can cause continuous chime though I'd just replace the chime module.
Any thoughts out there before I waste 50 bucks?
I've disconnected the round metal speaker from inside the module but concerned it may still be a low battery draw (only drive it once a week).
D
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