Power Lock issues
#1
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Year: 1991 Laredo
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H.O.
Power Lock issues
So my power locks aren't working. Well, the passenger side front is working and that's it. I can use the switch from both dr. side and pass. side to make the pass side lock / unlock, so I know that the switches are good. Could all of the motors just be shot? The manual locks are kinda sticky feeling as well, but I'm not sure if this would be the issue. Ground issue or motor?
#4
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Year: 1991 Laredo
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H.O.
I'm thinking replacing the main ground strap might be a good try. At least I'd have a new one anyways even if it doesn't resolve the problem.
I think it's located at the back of the engine block to the firewall? I'll probably just use some 4 gauge power wire from work.
I think it's located at the back of the engine block to the firewall? I'll probably just use some 4 gauge power wire from work.
#5
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Year: 87
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: 4.0 I6
I'm thinking replacing the main ground strap might be a good try. At least I'd have a new one anyways even if it doesn't resolve the problem.
I think it's located at the back of the engine block to the firewall? I'll probably just use some 4 gauge power wire from work.
I think it's located at the back of the engine block to the firewall? I'll probably just use some 4 gauge power wire from work.
I used a HUGE ground... The motors I am sure are just getting weak also. New ground definitely brought some life back into it. This is the main ground from the battery to the engine dipstick block.
#6
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Year: 1990XJ/1989MJ
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0L Renix
Must say that except a bad (burned up) window motor I have never had an issue with my power windows. So I can't help much with this question. That is why I have been so slow to respond. Nothing really to add.
#7
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.7 Stroker
There is a writeup somewhere on installing relays to make the power locks work better.
A buddy I knew brought over the stuff from his scrapped XJ and installed it on mine. The locks were getting about 6.5 volts if I remember right. After the relays were installed, it was 12v and banged the locks open and closed as if hit by a hammer.
I will see if i can find the writeup to post here.
A buddy I knew brought over the stuff from his scrapped XJ and installed it on mine. The locks were getting about 6.5 volts if I remember right. After the relays were installed, it was 12v and banged the locks open and closed as if hit by a hammer.
I will see if i can find the writeup to post here.
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#8
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Year: 1991 Laredo
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H.O.
Great thinking Bouncy, when I go to do keyless entry, I'll be installing a relay anyways while I'm there, I'll see if this fixes the issue and let you guys know!
Thanks
Thanks
#9
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Year: 1991 Laredo
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L H.O.
So the extra juice from the keyless entry relay puts the locks right back into gear. All including hatch easily lock / unlock with the remote. Using switch on the doors is still finiky because the current's not going through the relay, but I'm not worried about that anyways, just use the remote. The remote start / keyless only took a few hours to put in. For an old jeep, with an easy install, I'd recommend it.
#10
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Year: 94
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
There is a writeup somewhere on installing relays to make the power locks work better.
A buddy I knew brought over the stuff from his scrapped XJ and installed it on mine. The locks were getting about 6.5 volts if I remember right. After the relays were installed, it was 12v and banged the locks open and closed as if hit by a hammer.
I will see if i can find the writeup to post here.
A buddy I knew brought over the stuff from his scrapped XJ and installed it on mine. The locks were getting about 6.5 volts if I remember right. After the relays were installed, it was 12v and banged the locks open and closed as if hit by a hammer.
I will see if i can find the writeup to post here.
I imagine your speaking of this one?
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.ph...+window+thread
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