Power door lock
#1
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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Just joined the forum but have been on here a lot to help me fix issues I’ve had in the past. I have 99 Xj with the power door locks not working. It makes the locking or unlocking noise but the switches do not move and the doors do not lock. I replaced the driver said thinking it was the main but then found out on here it’s the passenger side. I replaced the passenger side also and it doesn’t even make a sound. Doesn’t unlock or lock door. It’s weird because I just noticed the other day that it locks the back hatch but thag is it. Any ideas on what to do or if it even is the power switches? When I had the door panel off I checked for any wiring cut or any damage but couldn’t find anything
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You need to systematically test for current at each relevant point with a test light (not multimeter)
a free download of the FSM, and look at the circuit diagram/wiring color./diagnostic will greatly aid you (check archives)
That should tell the story, if not get back to us
a free download of the FSM, and look at the circuit diagram/wiring color./diagnostic will greatly aid you (check archives)
That should tell the story, if not get back to us
#3
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Year: 1999
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I have found 2 or 3 reasons for the scenario you describe.
1. Voltage loss to the actuator which drives the lock due to poor wiring.
2. Actuator which controls the lock is going bad
3 Linkage controlling the locking feature bent (rare)
In most cases, I have found that, with proper voltage, replacing the actuator to be the fix.
Todd
1. Voltage loss to the actuator which drives the lock due to poor wiring.
2. Actuator which controls the lock is going bad
3 Linkage controlling the locking feature bent (rare)
In most cases, I have found that, with proper voltage, replacing the actuator to be the fix.
Todd
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Year: 1988
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Engine: 4.0L
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What exactly did you replace in the doors? The locks? The actuators? The switches?
The other replies above are spot on. I would add to MrTodd's #3 about the locks and linkage being dirty and cake up with old dried out grease.
The other replies above are spot on. I would add to MrTodd's #3 about the locks and linkage being dirty and cake up with old dried out grease.
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#6
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I have found 2 or 3 reasons for the scenario you describe.
1. Voltage loss to the actuator which drives the lock due to poor wiring.
2. Actuator which controls the lock is going bad
3 Linkage controlling the locking feature bent (rare)
In most cases, I have found that, with proper voltage, replacing the actuator to be the fix.
Todd
1. Voltage loss to the actuator which drives the lock due to poor wiring.
2. Actuator which controls the lock is going bad
3 Linkage controlling the locking feature bent (rare)
In most cases, I have found that, with proper voltage, replacing the actuator to be the fix.
Todd
#7
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You can work backwards or forwards
backwards = actuator, then each side of switch, fuse, etc
I had the issue where a wire was not able to carry sufficient current, they break internally within the rubber boot in the doors due to constant flexing
Sometimes visible, other times not
everything checked ok, so i piggyback one of the main wires and it all works
A multimeter will fool you, as it measures tiny current
another super simple test, run a long wire from Bat + and touch the actuator..does it work then?
The FSM makes life easy
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#8
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Yeah I had thought about the build up of grease or dirt. While I had the panel off I checked for that but maybe I should try to look closer. I replaced the switches on the driver side first cause I thought it was the main for every door but then seen on here that the passenger side was the main so I replaced it and it doesn’t work at all it’s weird.
#9
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Year: 1999
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You can work backwards or forwards
backwards = actuator, then each side of switch, fuse, etc
I had the issue where a wire was not able to carry sufficient current, they break internally within the rubber boot in the doors due to constant flexing
Sometimes visible, other times not
everything checked ok, so i piggyback one of the main wires and it all works
A multimeter will fool you, as it measures tiny current
another super simple test, run a long wire from Bat + and touch the actuator..does it work then?
The FSM makes life easy
backwards = actuator, then each side of switch, fuse, etc
I had the issue where a wire was not able to carry sufficient current, they break internally within the rubber boot in the doors due to constant flexing
Sometimes visible, other times not
everything checked ok, so i piggyback one of the main wires and it all works
A multimeter will fool you, as it measures tiny current
another super simple test, run a long wire from Bat + and touch the actuator..does it work then?
The FSM makes life easy
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