nujeepguy

all good stuff,thanks for adding.

btw , the above, ive seen conflicting ohm meter readings on the early coil types but the later units use a hall chip with a magnet for bias. ohms dont help much when they say it should read "open"!! could be an open wire.
you can feel the magnet. it will stick to your fender!
like you say, scopes dont lie.

tacklebox

The connector / plug.... is in the engine bay and not difficult to reach what so ever.
The CPS itself, I also can barely reach two fingers to the bolts, BUT that is all that is needed to remove / install the 2 bolts. Ratchet, couple extensions and a wobble. A couple wraps of electrical tape around the wobble to add some rigidity and keep it where you want. Two SMALL bolts and a plug, that's it. Sure its location is not handy, however it isn't in the depths of hell like so many make it seem. its a 1 beer job.


I do understand the desire for a reliable test. In your OP you lament about wanting to test because it is so hard to replace. I am simply saying its not all that bad.

Willys55

agreed, it is a 20 minute job, 24" 3/8 drive extension, 3/8" ratchet and a 7/16" swivel socket....most times you don't even need to jack up the jeep, cause it's already lifted...LOL

nujeepguy

purpose of this thread is to develope good tests to avoid shotguning with a parts cannon. not just changing parts not knowing what fixed it.

my original goal was/is to get a simple led circuit for guys to clip on the sensor wire and get a good/bad indication. the scope is still not cheep or ez for many to use.
maybe a thread on parts changing would also be helpful.