poping in throttle body??
#1
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: segoville tx
Posts: 474
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 6 cylinder
poping in throttle body??
I go to take off and it bogs down and it pops in the throttle body then picks back up?
#2
Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: ri
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Backfires in the manifold mean the fuel air mix is getting ignited in the intake somehow.
A valve is stuck open or not closing tight, there's some serious carbon build up issues,
or it's radically out of time. (plug wires crosse up)
Sorry for the bad news.
My first guess would be a valve sticking open when the engine is cold.
A valve is stuck open or not closing tight, there's some serious carbon build up issues,
or it's radically out of time. (plug wires crosse up)
Sorry for the bad news.
My first guess would be a valve sticking open when the engine is cold.
Last edited by Marcucco; 06-27-2012 at 07:09 PM.
#5
Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: ri
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Think about it.
You need fuel air and a heat source to cause ignition.
There shouldn't be more then a tiny amount of fuel in the manifold if the valve timing is correct, and there's nothing in the manifold to cause ignition.
One of a couple of things could be happening in your engine.
There's some carbon build-up above the intake valve that's getting hot enough to ignite the incoming fuel air mix.
Or
The valve is open (at least slightly) when the cylinder fires.
Or
The spark plug is firing with the intake valve open.
It's not a death sentence or anything, it could be one of those things SeaFoam could cure.
But I'd want to take the rocker cover off because the easiest/cheapest answer, going by what you posted, is that a valve is sticking open when the engine is cold and it loosens up once the engine warms up. You might want to get that problem diagnosed/solved before the valve gets stuck good and the piston crashes into it
You need fuel air and a heat source to cause ignition.
There shouldn't be more then a tiny amount of fuel in the manifold if the valve timing is correct, and there's nothing in the manifold to cause ignition.
One of a couple of things could be happening in your engine.
There's some carbon build-up above the intake valve that's getting hot enough to ignite the incoming fuel air mix.
Or
The valve is open (at least slightly) when the cylinder fires.
Or
The spark plug is firing with the intake valve open.
It's not a death sentence or anything, it could be one of those things SeaFoam could cure.
But I'd want to take the rocker cover off because the easiest/cheapest answer, going by what you posted, is that a valve is sticking open when the engine is cold and it loosens up once the engine warms up. You might want to get that problem diagnosed/solved before the valve gets stuck good and the piston crashes into it
Last edited by Marcucco; 06-27-2012 at 07:35 PM.
#6
Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: ri
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
You could also pull the plug and see if maybe theres a build-up on the head of the piston that might still be hot enough to cause ignition when the fuel/air mix hits it.
This would indicate you're running a mixture that is too rich.
This would indicate you're running a mixture that is too rich.
Trending Topics
#8
Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: ri
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Look buddy, I get it, you just had a bunch of work done.
But the Jeep still isn't running right so obviously something got messed up or skipped over in the rebuild, $h!t happens, somebody screwed up.
The bottom line is this, you've either got a stuck valve or a timing issue.
You can go back an talk to the people who did the work,
or you can try and track the problem down yourself,
or you can ignore it until the valve sticks hard and punches a hole in the top of the piston and hope they make good on the warrantee.
Your choice.
But the Jeep still isn't running right so obviously something got messed up or skipped over in the rebuild, $h!t happens, somebody screwed up.
The bottom line is this, you've either got a stuck valve or a timing issue.
You can go back an talk to the people who did the work,
or you can try and track the problem down yourself,
or you can ignore it until the valve sticks hard and punches a hole in the top of the piston and hope they make good on the warrantee.
Your choice.
#9
Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Clarksville, TN
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Or...it could be an issue with the IAC, TPS, or CPS too. Mine runs like that right after I reconnect the neg. Battery cable after changing parts, until the ECU relearns all of the sensors. It will only do it just after it warms up, and only 1 or 2 times until the ECU calibrates.
#10
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: segoville tx
Posts: 474
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 6 cylinder
I did all the work all of its been tested and it runs like a Cadillac no issues. Timing is dead on and everything checks out fine looks like you need to brush up on your mechanics buddy the old motor did the same thing so not a motor or head issue.... thank you
#11
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: segoville tx
Posts: 474
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 6 cylinder
Originally Posted by eae0164
Or...it could be an issue with the IAC, TPS, or CPS too. Mine runs like that right after I reconnect the neg. Battery cable after changing parts, until the ECU relearns all of the sensors. It will only do it just after it warms up, and only 1 or 2 times until the ECU calibrates.
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Landers, CA
Posts: 760
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
5 Posts
Year: Several
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Not symptoms of CPS or IAC but could be TPS.
Crossed wires, bad cap, even plug wires run too close together - cross induction - or lean. TPS can cause it to be too lean.
Pull off one plug wire at a time - snap the accelerator hard. See which cylinder does not make it backfire.
If no particular cylinder is the cause, very likely TPS - defective or misadjusted. A scratchy TPS can act like a bad accelerator pump on a carb. It will run OK unless you try to accelerate.
Something in common with all cylinders.
Something you had on the old engine and re-used again.
Let us know what you find.
Crossed wires, bad cap, even plug wires run too close together - cross induction - or lean. TPS can cause it to be too lean.
Pull off one plug wire at a time - snap the accelerator hard. See which cylinder does not make it backfire.
If no particular cylinder is the cause, very likely TPS - defective or misadjusted. A scratchy TPS can act like a bad accelerator pump on a carb. It will run OK unless you try to accelerate.
Something in common with all cylinders.
Something you had on the old engine and re-used again.
Let us know what you find.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
cpnwrench
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here
13
02-15-2024 08:09 AM
libengan
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here
14
11-06-2015 09:16 AM
zumer715
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here
10
10-03-2015 07:07 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)