BimmerJeeper

I can't find an XJ photo that has the part that looks like the screen door closer.
What effect is this going to have on the driving?

What is this part called, so I can order a new one....
Is this a major job to replace?

phishy

I'm assuming you're talking about the steering stabilizer. It's cheap and easy to do yourself.

jbsjunk

A lot of people don't run one. It is a stabilizer.

BimmerJeeper

Thanks. It looks like it's also called the steering damper
(5208 7827)
MONROE Part # SC2928 $24

Radi

Don't use a screen door closer or you'll be turning right all the time.

Monroe is what I used. Worked fine, no need to spend more.

BimmerJeeper

I'll try replacing it, but it seems like a non-critical part.

Kingfisher

It's non critical. And it will stop leaking someday.

Lowrange2

I bet you 10 bucks you spend more than 16 hours replacing this part because removing the tapered stud from the drag link can be difficult sometimes.

Please do a full writeup on the replacement.

dagr8tim

Here's a great reference photo for jeep front end's.

PocketsEmpty

TRE puller takes care of that in a couple turns of the wrench.

Stabsthedrama

Mine had completely drained as well. Was a very easy job. I doubt you'd have any issue doing it, it's like 2 bolts that shouldn't be too much of a problem.

The Moog OEM one is a lot beefier than the stock ones, and are only like $40.

Lowrange2

C'mon. You know he's not going to try to use something like that. It's too dangerous.

You're obviously not familiar with the OP. Took this guy 14 hours to replace a valve cover gasket.

SteveMongr

The 'two hammer technique' I use for tapered bolts did not work for removing the steering damper from a Currie drag-link. But it works great on steering knuckles.

dagr8tim

I use this for tie rods, ball joints, and anything else that uses a tapered bolt that you have to remove. This also has less chance of destroying a boot like a pickle fork.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html

Stabsthedrama

Meh...if you spray some pb blaster onto the boot a bit before taking a pickle fork to it, it should only take a few solid whacks. I was shocked how easy all the tre's and castle nuts came off on mine, and it's an 89. Granted I wasn't re-using them, but if I wanted to the boots would have still been fine to re-use. The only problematic part is (usually) the track bar (both the frame and axle ends can be a pain, either the axle side can get wallowed out, and the frame side's castle nut can be a real pita, resulting in having to remove the frame mount and/or use an air chisel) - but tie rod ends/stabilizer should usually be easy to swap out. Again, this is going on faith of someone that can at least turn a wrench.

A cheap pickle fork is usually good enough honestly. I got one on amazon for like $9 and have used it quite a bit and it has held up perfectly fine. Why spend a ton of money on something you're gonna be beating with a hammer anyway right?