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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 11:04 PM
  #16  
giwill's Avatar
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From: TEXAS
Year: 95
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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But the o2 sensor would make it run like crap i did on my girls 00 wj and if it's bad enough it could make it die

I the o2 sensor does not do it i would check the cam positioning sensor that problem you have could be many thing you just have to start to work your way through them process of elimination
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 11:17 PM
  #17  
giwill's Avatar
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From: TEXAS
Year: 95
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by cherokeesportlbi
there is one vacuum line that goes from the back of the engine on the drivers side and runs along the top of fire wall to other side of engine and it just comes to a t and there are 2 hoses that went to somewhere but dnt know were has been like this since purshaced has never affect driving before. but has to go to something imporatant right?

If I'm right the hose that your talking about connect to the cruise control unit and their probably use to be a big ovule shaped cannister that is missing you can just cap that because if it's open i make your idle a Little higher then normal.

is this the hose if so the big cannister is what your missing but you dont really need it
Attached Thumbnails pleaseeeee help-100_2578.jpg   pleaseeeee help-100_2577.jpg  
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 11:37 PM
  #18  
CherokeeRic's Avatar
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And when you pull the plugs, GAP THEM. You already have them out, so now is the time. On that note, I borrowed my buddy's truck for a weekend and it was running TERRIBLE. Coughing, sputtering, wouldn't shift properly....etc. I started checking things....pulled the plugs......they were at nearly .050" gap. Supposed to be at .035".
Though that's a large gap, I didn't think that was the sole problem. Maybe a contributing factor, but that's it.
Well....lo and behold, once reinstalled, I fired it up and ALL problems went away and it purred like a kitten.

Not saying this is your problem, but something to check. It WOULD possibly cause the O2 code, since the combustion process is incomplete due to plugs not firing from large gap. Although, you say it started all at once, and, if that's the case, then the plug gap thing I mentioned is probably not your problem since that is a more gradual decline.

Maybe you have more than just one problem, but if it started all at once, it's likely just one thing.

As for the distributor cap, when you take it off to check it, it will probably have deposits on the terminals. Cap & rotor kits are pretty inexpensive, but, if money is very tight and you must wait, then just carefully scrape the deposits off. It will be fine as long as the cap itself isn't cracked.

On that note, to check for a cracked cap, look for carbon tracks......dark deposits on the outside that denote that it is cracked and throwing spark where it shouldn't be.
You can also wait 'til it's dark out, pop the hood, have someone start the engine while you look around under the hood. Watch along the plug wires from each plug to the distributor and watch for the blue sparks. If you see any, then it's likely time to change wires/cap/rotor for sure. It's a sign that the wires are broken/worn internally and the gap is too large for the spark to jump, so it finds the next nearest ground outside the wire. Head, engine block, any other metallic object.....(provided you set spark plug gap first, as stated above)

Hope you get it taken care of!
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Old Oct 22, 2010 | 09:36 AM
  #19  
cherokeesportlbi's Avatar
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ok so i took off the dist cap and there is carbon build up so does that mean i need a new dist cap.
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Old Oct 23, 2010 | 12:41 PM
  #20  
giwill's Avatar
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From: TEXAS
Year: 95
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i would and that way your for sure that that's not longer the problem if it persist after you change it out that cap is not that expensive and you should do the rotor while you got it apart
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Old Oct 23, 2010 | 01:32 PM
  #21  
rich's Avatar
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From: morrisonville ny
Year: 2000 @ 1994 givin away
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Clear the computer and let it relearn, give that a try.
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