Nothing is pre-set about the distributor, if you removed it, you need to double and triple check after you double check your double checks that the dist is lined up correctly.

Put the motor at TDC, compression stroke. Line the dist rotor up to just before the number one cyl post. Slide the distributor down and if lined up right, the rotor will be pointing at the number 1 position on the cap. Then, start the motor and set the base timing.

It sounds like it is either a tooth off or 180* out. Very easy mistakes to make, even for proffessionals that are in a rush.

There may be line-up marks on the body of the distributor itself near the rotor to tell if youve hit cyl #1, TDC, compression stroke.

 

Well ....... welll....... well let me first start by saying thank you to everyone that helped me with these problems.... there were a few things wrong with the jeep thats why it was soo hard to get a prognosis.... first thing was the idle air valve sensor was bad although that did not fix my problem but got lil better.. i replaced all my ground wires, was alot of rust.... thanks to someone on this thread my CPS wire was melted on the exhaust... replaced that.... did not fix the problem just chased it down further to timing was way off..... and i fixed that and she runs great now.... but these are the codes she is throwing still... any help on these would help....... 12-22-55 i know one is battery disconnected and 55 is end of cycle what is the other? thanks guys again.

 

Chrysler products COMMON CODES OBD1 (vehicles made before 1995)

Part 1: Chrysler Domestic vehicles

CODES/Meaning

88 display used for start or test
11 camshaft signal or ignition signal, no reference signal during cranking
12 memory to controller has been cleared within 50-100 engine starts
13 map sensor not detecting any change during test
14 map voltage too high or too low
15 vehicle speed sensor, no signal detected
16 knock sensor circuit. open or short detected
17 low engine temperature, possible thermostat fault
21 oxygen sensor signal, neither rich or lean detected
22 coolant sensor voltage low
23 air charge voltage high/low detected
24 throttle positioner sensor voltage high/low
25 automatic idle speed motor driver circuit, short or open detected
26 injectors 1,2,3 peak current not reached
27 injector control circuit does not respond to control signal
31 purge solenoid circuit, open or short detected
32 egr solenoid circuit, open or short detected
33 a/c clutch relay circuit, open or short detected
34 speed control servo solenoid, open or short detected
35 radiator fan control relay circuit, open or short detected
36 wastegate solenoid, open or short detected
37 part throttle unlock(PTU) circuit, open or short detected
41 charging system circuit not responding to control signal
42 fuel pump or auto shutdown (ASD) relay voltage sensed at controller
43 ignition control circuit not responding
44 battery temperature voltage circuit problem
45 turbo boost limit exceeded-map sensor detects overboost
46 battery voltage too high
47 battery voltage too low
51 air/fuel at limit
52 logic module fault
53 internal controller failure
54 camshaft reference circuit not detected
55 end of message
61 baro read solenoid, open or short detected
62 emr mileage not stored
63 eeprom write denied
64 flex fuel sensor signal out of range
65 manifold tuning valve, open or short detected
66 no ccd messages
76 ballast bypass relay, open or short detected

 

coolant temperature sensor

 

is this something i should worry about? being a 95 sensor in a 96 engine ? might have something to do with it? its a new sensor.......

 

It takes a community to raise a jeep sometimes. Looks like almost everyone who replied was a little right in their own way. Glad you got it going. Happy trails to you.

 

As for your cts refer to my post about shiney parts in new boxes.
Your computer doesn't know what year your block and head are nor does it care as long as you transfered everything from original to donor and it worked to begin with you should be golden.

 

hey whats up again, sounded great took for test drive ran great so today i went for a longer one to return some parts to advanced auto parts and when i got back in, it did not start..... so i let it cool down and then i took rotor out and reset the timing in it and it started back up again, not as much power as origanally but i got it home... would a bad distributor cause me to have to keep reseting the time everytime i go to start it?

 

Once your timing is set you should not have to keep playing with it. it could be that enough time past for whatever part was truly messing up to cool and work again while you toyed with your timing. coils, kps inside the distributor and most other electronics are all susceptible to heat. Did you test your sensors with a multimeter like i suggested. From the sound of it i would test them hot. Also you didn't notice any oil inside of the distributor did you? Also it might be time to change your distributor gear since you put it in a different motor, not detrimental but wise.

 

your right i only checked continuity when engine was cold if i can get it running again i will test them while its running, i took distributor out and inspected the gear and pin nothing looks worn or bad about it. i am going to check timing gears and chain also....

 

wow its amazing to find all the same problems i am having here. i had a eng change with some issues yall found the cps problem right enough so i am going with the tooth off on the distributer as i know its tdc. let ya know but thanks in advance. yup K I S S and i am a bit of a mechanical tard sometimes too.

 

jeep has been sitting for long time just started tinkering with it again recently, as far as codes go now some asked for then they are 22, and 23 and i got a good jump on fixing them already im just waiting on 50 starts to see if it learns how to drive now, i think before i was never giving it enough time to learn anything, thanks for your help keep you posted let you know if it starts to work

 

did you try your Dist?
the bearing might be worn out. I took the cap off mine and the rotor would move almost a 1/8 of a inch. Changed that and no more problems

 

check your crank position sensor. i had the same problem and that fixed mine. well that and replacing a bent fly wheel. did it during engine installation.

 

check your fuel rail that comes from the fuel tank to the injectors.