Hello,
First time Jeep owner and I love it but I’ve run into a problem. I was going to work, the Jeep fired right up and I drove for 30 minutes before stopping to get gas. After filling up I turn the key in the ignition but my Jeep would not crank. I heard the fuel pump come on and a faint click from somewhere under the hood but that was it. The lights were bright, all the accessories worked, etc. I had the Jeep towed back to the house and began to troubleshoot the problem. I metered the battery voltage (12.3), metered the voltage at the starter solenoid (trigger post when cranking was 12.1 and voltage at the battery post was 11.52). I used a jumper wire from the battery to the trigger wire post and nothing happened. I assumed because I had voltage at all the right places that the starter must be bad. I removed the starter and took it to be tested. It took some effort on the bench but the ‘tech’ finally got it working. Not wanting to hassle with the old started I purchased a new one. After installing the new start I now get a more pronounced ‘clicking’ at the starter solenoid but the engine still does not crank. Once again I used a jumper wire directly from the battery to the starter solenoid but no joy. Thinking the battery might be on the low side, I tried to boost it off my running car but still nothing. Just clicks.
At work, three days ago, I redid both the positive and negative battery cables as they were trashed. Cleaned the posts, cleaned the grounds, etc. Everything still looked great but tomorrow I will recheck the cables. One strange thing happened and that I’d the stereo clock reset when I was at the gas station waiting on a tow. Not sure what that’s about.
I’ve read many no start posts but none seem to fit my particular problems. Any help or ideas would be much appreciated.
First time Jeep owner and I love it but I’ve run into a problem. I was going to work, the Jeep fired right up and I drove for 30 minutes before stopping to get gas. After filling up I turn the key in the ignition but my Jeep would not crank. I heard the fuel pump come on and a faint click from somewhere under the hood but that was it. The lights were bright, all the accessories worked, etc. I had the Jeep towed back to the house and began to troubleshoot the problem. I metered the battery voltage (12.3), metered the voltage at the starter solenoid (trigger post when cranking was 12.1 and voltage at the battery post was 11.52). I used a jumper wire from the battery to the trigger wire post and nothing happened. I assumed because I had voltage at all the right places that the starter must be bad. I removed the starter and took it to be tested. It took some effort on the bench but the ‘tech’ finally got it working. Not wanting to hassle with the old started I purchased a new one. After installing the new start I now get a more pronounced ‘clicking’ at the starter solenoid but the engine still does not crank. Once again I used a jumper wire directly from the battery to the starter solenoid but no joy. Thinking the battery might be on the low side, I tried to boost it off my running car but still nothing. Just clicks.
At work, three days ago, I redid both the positive and negative battery cables as they were trashed. Cleaned the posts, cleaned the grounds, etc. Everything still looked great but tomorrow I will recheck the cables. One strange thing happened and that I’d the stereo clock reset when I was at the gas station waiting on a tow. Not sure what that’s about.
I’ve read many no start posts but none seem to fit my particular problems. Any help or ideas would be much appreciated.
CF Veteran
Sounds like you have done many of the right thing so far.
Perhaps it is time to take a breaker bar with socket to the crank pulley (harmonic balancer) nut and ensure that you can rotate the motor by hand. Just to rule out the possibility that the starter is encountering a motor that doesn't want to rotate for some mechanical reason (I know the implication here is terrible, but you have already checked and tested around most of the normal stuff).
Perhaps it is time to take a breaker bar with socket to the crank pulley (harmonic balancer) nut and ensure that you can rotate the motor by hand. Just to rule out the possibility that the starter is encountering a motor that doesn't want to rotate for some mechanical reason (I know the implication here is terrible, but you have already checked and tested around most of the normal stuff).
awg
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Nov 14, 2025
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12.3V is only ~50% charge, unless the temp is low, should be ~12.6V
reach up with a16mm ring spanner and short all 3 terminals on the starter/solenoid, (with ignition on..but not in gear, if a manual! )
I went thru this issue recently. In one instance, the solenoid was faulty, in the other case I dismantled and cleaned the motor, and it then worked
Note..both worked on the bench at all times!
the above will rule out a faulty solenoid..the internal contacts cannot pull full current
and yes, turn the crankbolt with a 19mm spanner, just to be sure
reach up with a16mm ring spanner and short all 3 terminals on the starter/solenoid, (with ignition on..but not in gear, if a manual! )
I went thru this issue recently. In one instance, the solenoid was faulty, in the other case I dismantled and cleaned the motor, and it then worked
Note..both worked on the bench at all times!
the above will rule out a faulty solenoid..the internal contacts cannot pull full current
and yes, turn the crankbolt with a 19mm spanner, just to be sure
I managed to turned the engine over by hand. Made 2 revolutions and did not feel anything binding up so I think I can rule out the motor being the problem (whew!). Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately the problem still exists.
Seasoned Member
Did you check the integrity of the connections of the battery cables? Your truck is 23 years old and over that period of time the cables, especially the ground cable, probably have not been changed or otherwise checked.
While I am aware that a charged battery voltage is 12.6, my battery tester showed that me battery was at 78% and would provide 481cca vs the 550cca the battery was rated at. Nevertheless I put a fresh battery in (metered 12.66) and tried a few more tests. I ran a jumper wire directly to the starter motor, the trigger post and the positive post. The start did not spin and the solenoid continues to click.
I did notice that the voltage did not drop significantly while attempting to roll it over. Specifically, at start, 12.6, key turned to on 12.32, key turned to start, 11.95.
I will be pulling the starter this afternoon. The weather here in Oregon today is craptastic (rain and wind) and my garage is unavailable at the moment.
Thank you for your suggestion.
I did notice that the voltage did not drop significantly while attempting to roll it over. Specifically, at start, 12.6, key turned to on 12.32, key turned to start, 11.95.
I will be pulling the starter this afternoon. The weather here in Oregon today is craptastic (rain and wind) and my garage is unavailable at the moment.
Thank you for your suggestion.
Quote:
The negative cable is new. I cleaned the end of the positive cable and crimped on a new end. I metered them both today and they appear good.Originally Posted by Idunno
Did you check the integrity of the connections of the battery cables? Your truck is 23 years old and over that period of time the cables, especially the ground cable, probably have not been changed or otherwise checked.
Than you for the suggestion.
CF Veteran
When you replaced the starter, was it a starter/solenoid replacement? or just the starter motor?
Also, while the starter should be well grounded to the engine (because it is bolted to it), it makes me concerned that your block is not getting a good ground back to the battery. Have you tested that with a multimeter? If you have doubts, you could run a temporary ground from the block back to battery negative. If the starter then engages, at least you'll know that it is a general ground problem.
The reason I go there is because the relationship between your battery and the starter is pretty simple (not a lot in between). Since you had the problem over 2 starters, it makes me doubt even more that the starter is getting both the positive and negative that it needs. What can happen is that the solenoid gets enough to engage, but as soon as the starter begins to draw amperage the over-all voltage drops and solenoid immediately disengages (leaving you with just the sound of a click, as this all happens in an instant).
I also notice that in your mention of "jumper" wires you seemed to always be referencing a positive. Did you ever jumper a ground to ensure the starter was getting what it needed on that side?
Also, while the starter should be well grounded to the engine (because it is bolted to it), it makes me concerned that your block is not getting a good ground back to the battery. Have you tested that with a multimeter? If you have doubts, you could run a temporary ground from the block back to battery negative. If the starter then engages, at least you'll know that it is a general ground problem.
The reason I go there is because the relationship between your battery and the starter is pretty simple (not a lot in between). Since you had the problem over 2 starters, it makes me doubt even more that the starter is getting both the positive and negative that it needs. What can happen is that the solenoid gets enough to engage, but as soon as the starter begins to draw amperage the over-all voltage drops and solenoid immediately disengages (leaving you with just the sound of a click, as this all happens in an instant).
I also notice that in your mention of "jumper" wires you seemed to always be referencing a positive. Did you ever jumper a ground to ensure the starter was getting what it needed on that side?
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Both. I bought it at O’Riley’s with the lifetime warranty.Originally Posted by jordan96xj
When you replaced the starter, was it a starter/solenoid replacement? or just the starter motor?
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Let me be more specific.
Take a set of jumper cables and connect one clamp to the stud just under your ignition coil (either one, these studs go into the block). The other end of the cable attach the clamp to the negative battery terminal. I assume you know what I'm talking about here (based on how thorough your first post was), but if you are unsure - please do not attach anything positive directly to anything negative in this test.
Then try to start.
Take a set of jumper cables and connect one clamp to the stud just under your ignition coil (either one, these studs go into the block). The other end of the cable attach the clamp to the negative battery terminal. I assume you know what I'm talking about here (based on how thorough your first post was), but if you are unsure - please do not attach anything positive directly to anything negative in this test.
Then try to start.
Quote:
Take a set of jumper cables and connect one clamp to the stud just under your ignition coil (either one, these studs go into the block). The other end of the cable attach the clamp to the negative battery terminal. I assume you know what I'm talking about here (based on how thorough your first post was), but if you are unsure - please do not attach anything positive directly to anything negative in this test.
Then try to start.
Interesting that you mention the studs under the coil. While I was inspecting the original negative cable attached to the block near the distributor I broke off the attaching bolt head! I reattached the new ground cable to the stud nearest the front of the engine on that very coil bracket. I metered from the battery negative to various parts on the block and received consistent .02 Ohm readings. I am still going to try your suggestion and will report back. I am also going to pull the starter and have it tested (I’ve got to rule it out). Looks like the weather might be clearing for a bit.Originally Posted by jordan96xj
Let me be more specific.Take a set of jumper cables and connect one clamp to the stud just under your ignition coil (either one, these studs go into the block). The other end of the cable attach the clamp to the negative battery terminal. I assume you know what I'm talking about here (based on how thorough your first post was), but if you are unsure - please do not attach anything positive directly to anything negative in this test.
Then try to start.
Eureka! As it turns out it IS a ground issue. Grounding with jumper cables directly to the block solved the problems. The problem is repeatable by removing the jumper cable. So even though my meter (a Fluke) tells me the ground is good, it is not good when trying to start the motor. Points go to jordan96xj! Thank you all for your support. Now I’m off to fix my ground...again!
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Quote:
I was pretty certain on that one. Glad you got it!Originally Posted by BruticusBob
Eureka! As it turns out it IS a ground issue. Grounding with jumper cables directly to the block solved the problems. The problem is repeatable by removing the jumper cable. So even though my meter (a Fluke) tells me the ground is good, it is not good when trying to start the motor. Points go to jordan96xj! Thank you all for your support. Now I’m off to fix my ground...again!
The Ohms was just showing you continuity, but as soon as all that amperage was in play (60-100 amps for a starter to get going) the voltage was dropping. Look up "voltage drop" on youtube for more information. The following video demonstration is strikingly similar to your state of affairs:
Excellent video. Thanks for that. The problem for me was simple arrogance. I know how to troubleshoot (I do it everyday for work) but I assumed that the cable I just replaced was obviously good and so I kept ignoring it (doh!). Just goes to show you that no matter your skill level you need to pay attention and follow ALL of the troubleshooting steps and not just the ones you think will get you to right answer (or something like that).
Thanks for for all of your help.
Mark this one SOLVED!
Thanks for for all of your help.
Mark this one SOLVED!
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Quote:
always good when there is a happy endingOriginally Posted by BruticusBob
Excellent video. Thanks for that. The problem for me was simple arrogance. I know how to troubleshoot (I do it everyday for work) but I assumed that the cable I just replaced was obviously good and so I kept ignoring it (doh!). Just goes to show you that no matter your skill level you need to pay attention and follow ALL of the troubleshooting steps and not just the ones you think will get you to right answer (or something like that).
Thanks for for all of your help.
Mark this one SOLVED!
Thanks for for all of your help.
Mark this one SOLVED!
its tempting to need an assistant to do a volt drop test on the SM
is a good video, its a bit drawn out, good to know we are 2% ers..should get a tatt
just gave me another idea for my you beaut Lithium Jump Starter, only weighs a few hundred grams, and the clips would just go right on..in situ starter motor tester bingo
dont even have working jump cables atm