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Pitman Arm Nut

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Old Dec 23, 2020 | 06:38 PM
  #1  
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Default Pitman Arm Nut

While attempting to install the tie in brackets for a new bumper I managed to snap one of the bolts for the steering box and noticed right after that the box was suddenly leaking. So, now attempting to get that box out of there to diagnose and either fit replace.

I’ve got everything disconnected except for the pitman arm and I haven’t even managed to get the nut off. I PB blasted it and have attempted to get it off with a socket and a 24 inch cheater pipe. I was down on the ground and bracing with my legs against the tire...nothing.

I don’t have an adjustable wrench that is big enough for the job and my only impact wrench is a 20v with a 1/4 inch receiver. I haven’t tried the impact wrench but I can’t imagine that little thing will work.

questions:

1. do I need more tools?
2. Heat or no heat?
3. Do I need to reconnect the steering box to the frame to really yank on this nut?
4. Should I just try to remove the pitman arm from the steering and bring it out with the box?
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Old Dec 24, 2020 | 04:47 AM
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Pitman arms can be pretty tough.

I would personally reconnect the box to the frame, and use a longer pipe over your breaker bar to loosen off the nut, unless you have a very strong vice

I usually take the Pitman arms out attached to the box, place it on a sledgehammer, and break the taper by striking the opposite side as hard as I can with a heavy hammer
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Old Dec 24, 2020 | 06:33 AM
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I usually take the the box out and put it in my large bench vise then use whatever I gotta use to get it loose.

Sometimes a few ugga duggas with an impact then a bunch of smackin with a hammer then a few ugga duggas then hammer time.

Sometimes back and forth with the impact.

ive only ever had luck getting one off while still on the vehicle. After that I just drop the box on every one
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Old Dec 24, 2020 | 09:08 AM
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Yeah. Pulled the box with the pitman.

Broken bolt stud in yellow, cracked spacer in red and thus-far impossible to remove pitman arm in blue...probably leaking too. Guess it was time for this thing to come off anyway.
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Old Dec 24, 2020 | 09:19 AM
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If you're made out of $$$ then you can still get a new OEM box... if you're like the rest of us that weren't born with a silver spoon.... well then I'd probably go Readhead box. Whatever you do... DON'T take the red pill and go down the reman. rabbit hole.... save yourself a lot of grief.... ask me how I know.....
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Old Dec 24, 2020 | 09:22 AM
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In retrospect.... even though it's a royal PITA to get that nut off the pitman arm..... it's actually a good thing that it's on there as tight as it is.... that's the last thing you want coming loose on any vehicle when you're driving down the road.
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Old Dec 24, 2020 | 10:45 AM
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I should have been alot more specific about my post.

The back and forth with the impact was referring to removing the nut.

The impact then smacking with a hammer was referring to using a puller to remove the arm.
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Old Dec 24, 2020 | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by RocketMouse
If you're made out of $$$ then you can still get a new OEM box... if you're like the rest of us that weren't born with a silver spoon.... well then I'd probably go Readhead box. Whatever you do... DON'T take the red pill and go down the reman. rabbit hole.... save yourself a lot of grief.... ask me how I know.....
Didn’t know that new OEM was an option any more. Sound like something that would run around $1k. I’m not going down that path in any case. Considering how hard this thing was to get out in the comfort of the garage, I’d also like to avoid the JY.

I can just get a Durango box and bolt it on right? I think I’ve heard I need some additional spacing, but I do have a JCR spacer that I was about to put on anyway.

https://redheadsteeringgears.com/pro...non-snow-plow/
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Old Dec 28, 2020 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by domestic82
Didn’t know that new OEM was an option any more. Sound like something that would run around $1k. I’m not going down that path in any case. Considering how hard this thing was to get out in the comfort of the garage, I’d also like to avoid the JY.

I can just get a Durango box and bolt it on right? I think I’ve heard I need some additional spacing, but I do have a JCR spacer that I was about to put on anyway.

https://redheadsteeringgears.com/pro...non-snow-plow/
I've heard of the Durango swap...but don't know how valid of a true upgrade it is..and yeah... far as I know the OEM box is still available... but wow... you'd have to sell a kidney to buy one.. I would think at that price point they would sell so few units that they'd quit making them. But who knows. My original one lasted the first 18 years of my Jeep's life.
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Old Dec 28, 2020 | 03:48 PM
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If you're junking the old box - use heat and a LOT of it. Heat, penetrating oil, smack with a hammer, repeat until successful - that's my Dad's advice and I consider him a master rusted/stuck part remover. He has more patience than I do, so patience seems to be the key.

You can also buy a new pitman arm and nut and literally not worry about it as well if it's too much.

I did a steering box only once and pray daily that I never have to deal with one ever again.... for me it was on vehicle, with a breaker bar (2 actually since I broke 1 getting that goddamn nut off) and cheater. I did NOT have any broken mounting stuff however. Hit Home Depot, plumbing section and get a length of pipe... as long as you can fit in the space where you'll be torquing. My experience was on a 00 TJ and the box was easily accessible, so I had all kinds of room to get a long bar on the nut.

Days of penetrating oil, spray it on constantly, tap it with a hammer to vibrate it (it helps get the penetrating oil to penetrate) and give it time. You'll need to separate the arm after the nut, so as folks are saying, 2 different corners of hell and you have to cross both to get all that apart.
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Old Dec 28, 2020 | 04:15 PM
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I have removed and overhauled steering boxes and Pitman arms, up to truck size

I always break the Pitman arm nut free with the box on the frame, using 3/4" breaker bar and pipe if needed

As I already mentioned, backing the Pitman arm and striking it very hard will pop the taper, unless its a truck box

in which case, a hydraulic puller tool can be attached, thats what they use in truck overhaul facilities, (and probably steering specialists)
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Old Dec 29, 2020 | 11:27 AM
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This is all good intel. Thanks guys. Since the box is already off, I’ll take it over to my Dads place and put it in the vise. I’ve got a replacement box on the way so at this point, the goal is just to save $25 on a new pitman arm.

It’s been getting soaked in PB Blast since I started this thread. If we can’t figure it out with all the advice you’ve already given, I’ve hatched a plan to configure the box in the vise such that I can put the breaker just lower than parallel to the floor, then put my hi-lift under it 🤷🏻‍♂️
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