96Xj-A-SKWAD

ok, ive determined that my inner pinion bearing is shot, im gonna open up the diff and take care of it.

And i know everyones gonna be like " get a 44" or "nows the perfect time to get a better axle", but im stickin with the dirty five.

so, with that said, i need some info on how to properly remove the carrier. and possibly a step by stem on the whole project.

do i have to remove the carrier cross pin, spider gears out, slide the axles out, remove the c clips. then carrier bearing caps, slide her out making sure not to missplace shims? is that all(before pinion comes out)?

its a 96 open dif.

o------preload! is this the value of turning the pinion, taken without the carrier installed? should be about 15?

thanks in advance!

cruiser54

Please don't be offended, but I think you may be over your head on this one. Setting up gears is not simple. And, I'll guess that both pinion bearings are shot, their debris gone through the carrier bearings etc.

Get an 8.25 from the JY.

96Xj-A-SKWAD

well i wont know till ive taken it all apart so, im doin it. but thanks

number9

If you're doing 1 pinion bearing, do them both. Also get a new collapsible spacer and really you should get a new pinion nut too. Your pinion depth will change when you put the new bearings in, so just putting your diff back in with the same bearings / shims will likely result in a different backlash and gear pattern. May be okay, may not but you aren't going to know without a pinion depth guage and its a LOT easier to work on setting up gears with the housing out and on a stand with the pinion pointing down at the ground.

You're going to need to press that pinion bearing off without tearing up the shim and then press the new one back on.

If you change the bearing, change the cup (race) too.

And.....if you're going in and end up replacing both pinion bearings, you may as well do the diff bearings too and all the seals - and then you're likely to need new shims there, so you end up doing a full rebuild of the gears.

Yes the Preload is when turning the pinion without the diff installed. From memory I think it was around 15-20 IN/#, you'll need a dial torque wrench for this. Check it turning clockwise.

I was a Mfg Eng (Process Eng) with Dana Corp (Assy Plant) for a few years and was responsible for WJ, XJ, TJ and KJ assy lines at one point or another. Spent most of my time on XJ, TJ and KJ. I was the type of Eng that lived on the floor getting my hands dirty, not sitting behind a desk all day. I've had my hands in far more than my share of axles. What the above poster said is true......setting up gears is a LOT more involved that most people realize - IF you are going to do it RIGHT.

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Big David

Not what you want to hear............but.................

It's gonna be cheaper & easier to get a 8.25 & put it in.It will cost $100 for the axle & you can have it up & running in a few hours.

You will also need the donor driveshaft.

96Xj-A-SKWAD

of all the jeep or xj forums ive posted this on, this is the first post that is helpfull, and not telling me to get a new axle, i understand there are better axles but this is my best option lol. thanks

number9

Actually, I was just coming back to edit my post and say that even as much experience I have with these axles, if it were mine I'd take it to a reputable shop that has the right tools and gauges and pay to have it done right. I could do it but I don't have the tools and equipment to do it right at home. Lots of people do it themselves I know, but just installing a set of gears or bearings does not equal doing it right.

Now, when you go to adding up the cost for new bearings, seals, nut, spacer, shims, diff fluid, the tools needed to do it - torque wrench for the pinion nut, torque wrench for the runout, pinion depth guage, dial indicator for measuring backlash.......you're likely to already have exceeded the cost you'd be out by just paying someone to do it or getting another axle all together to just swap out.

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DFlintstone

Again with respect, X the above. A small chance you might get lucky, but most likely you will end up with something noisy. Maybe OK for a farm truck that goes to the dump a few times a year.

Big David

No it's not.Best option is to replace the turdy5.

I wouldn't waste ANY money on a 35 when it's cheaper to replace it with a 8.25.

Direct bolt in.

But....it's your XJ.

If you rebuild it-lots of tools & parts to buy & lots to go wrong.

Good luck either way.

HudsonN

You've posted this exact thread on like 5 different forums and everyone has told you to swap it for an 8.25.

OP, what is your attachment to the 35? Why the hell do you not want to upgrade it and prevent further problems?

Jarrett

Aside from the normal tools, you're gonna need a master install kit, dial indicator with the magnetic base, micrometer, a press, and I usually buy another set of bearings to dremel out some so I can slide them on and off the pinion/carrier easily when adding a subtracting shims. The in/lb torque wrench for the pinion preload is nice to have but I usually do mine by feel. It would be good to get a brass drift set also to beat the new races in without damaging them. A 12 pack of your favorite alcoholic beverage wouldn't hurt to have either.

Basic steps: Take the c clips out, slide the axles out, take the bearing caps off, pry the carrier out, take your pinion nut off, remove the yoke and pinion seal, take the outer pinion bearing out. Your pinion will then be able to come out. Beat your old races out and press off the old bearings, keep track of your shims as you'll wanna use the same shim amounts as your starting point. Then have at it. Usually the install kits come with decent instructions for reassembly.

I've never bothered with a pos 35 so i couldn't tell you any specs or specifics. Personally I'd just go to the junkyard for a 8.25...

96Xj-A-SKWAD

I posted on three different forums, idk why thats a problem. 2 xj forums and Jeep forum.

I have no attachement to the 35 whatsoever. id have a 44 under there if i had the time and money.

.


I understand that the "turdy Five" as most call it is an inferior design. But due to personall situations the cheapest quickest fix for me was to fix the pinion bearing. I got all the parts for next to nothing, i was having trouble finding a new rear end, and i have a small time frame (as this is my dd).


With that said,
My brother, who is in a local jeep club was able to locate me a chrysler 8.25 for only 120$. so now i can go ahead and make the right fix.

Thanks

number9

Good to hear. With a short window to fix and this being your DD you are much better ahead going that route. Let us know how the swap goes.

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