?? paint over rust, suggestions please (PICTURES)
#1
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Year: 1990 Renix
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
?? paint over rust, suggestions please (PICTURES)
I live in the "rust belt" and have little choice to keep things rust free.. I am resolved to just slowing it down.. painting annually if I must.
Suggestions PLEASE.. see pics of what I have used and what I am up against.
*The pic of the dump bed is typical in Central Ohio.. and what is on much of the underside of my jeep.
I usually knock the "scale" off.. sand it, but its never good enough.. then paint. But with what??
Thanks all!
Suggestions PLEASE.. see pics of what I have used and what I am up against.
*The pic of the dump bed is typical in Central Ohio.. and what is on much of the underside of my jeep.
I usually knock the "scale" off.. sand it, but its never good enough.. then paint. But with what??
Thanks all!
#2
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Year: 2001
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rust oleum makes some good stuff.. but what rust do you need to stop?
http://www.por15.com/ my teacher did his hole GN in this stuff..
i got some knock off at lees and did the front floor of my jeep..
http://www.por15.com/ my teacher did his hole GN in this stuff..
i got some knock off at lees and did the front floor of my jeep..
#3
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Year: 1998
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I have had good luck with "rust converter" comes in a small bottle and you brush it on then paint over. Did the entire floor of an old bug with it and it turned out pretty well.
#4
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Year: 1995
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http://www.por15.com/ my teacher did his hole GN in this stuff..
#5
I used POR 15 on my '67... All the floors, top and bottom and the engine compartment. Sprayed undercoat on the bottom, and painted the engine bay with the car. Still looks great after about 4 years...
I also painted the block and heads of a SBC. Held up great. I've been spraying the Rustoleum Rust Reformer on the frame/etc of my '94 Ram. Don't know yet how well it will hold up, but it's much quicker and easier to use... I would still recommend the POR15 though...
I also did the floors in my old El Camino. It had several little pin holes in the floor pan from the rust, but still very structurally sound. I put painters tape on the bottom of the floor pan, and painted on the POR15 real thick to make sure it filled, then pealed the tape off when dry. Sealed up nicely...
I also painted the block and heads of a SBC. Held up great. I've been spraying the Rustoleum Rust Reformer on the frame/etc of my '94 Ram. Don't know yet how well it will hold up, but it's much quicker and easier to use... I would still recommend the POR15 though...
I also did the floors in my old El Camino. It had several little pin holes in the floor pan from the rust, but still very structurally sound. I put painters tape on the bottom of the floor pan, and painted on the POR15 real thick to make sure it filled, then pealed the tape off when dry. Sealed up nicely...
Last edited by closer9; 07-10-2010 at 07:26 PM.
#6
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Year: 1995
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Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
POR-15 is really great for rust, but UV light (sun light) will break it down. You must cover it with a coat or two of regular paint for areas that will see sun light.
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#8
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#10
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Year: 1990 - 2000
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The best (cost and time) solution I have found is to use the POR 15 prep, paint it with POR 15 and when the POR dries to the point of still being sticky, I paint over it with Rustoleum. This way the Rustoleum bonds to the POR. Wait too long and the POR turns to a slick rock hard finish.
Used this method on several areas on my 72 Chevelle and never had a rust problem in those places.
Used this method on several areas on my 72 Chevelle and never had a rust problem in those places.
#11
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Year: 1990 Renix
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Engine: 4.0L
Last questions for those who have used POR15..
Hey... you guys are awesome! Thank you for the follow-up!
I have been told about por15 but have never read up on how to do it.
Last questions for those who have used it..
1) Do i need to use the prep spray for proper adhesion.. or will just a completely dry surface work?
2) If ans. to (1) is yes, do I need to get the POR15 on while the "prep spray" is still "tacky?"
3) Will the rust-o-ilium in the original picture (glossy or flat) work as a UVlight barrier??.. and (??) the POR15 does need to be "tacky" when the cover spray (top coat) is applied, or it will flake/scrape off of the hardened POR15??
Again, you guys are the (expletive)!!!
Thank you!
Tom T.
I have been told about por15 but have never read up on how to do it.
Last questions for those who have used it..
1) Do i need to use the prep spray for proper adhesion.. or will just a completely dry surface work?
2) If ans. to (1) is yes, do I need to get the POR15 on while the "prep spray" is still "tacky?"
3) Will the rust-o-ilium in the original picture (glossy or flat) work as a UVlight barrier??.. and (??) the POR15 does need to be "tacky" when the cover spray (top coat) is applied, or it will flake/scrape off of the hardened POR15??
Again, you guys are the (expletive)!!!
Thank you!
Tom T.
#12
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Year: 2001
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Theres a product out called rust bullet that claims to beat por 15 in studies. WE use rust bullet on our mowers and it works great. We just cleaned the surface and painted right over it and it hasnt broken down yet. completely stopped it. http://www.rustbullet.com/Products/A...Automotive.asp
#13
I've never used the POR15 prep spray. I always just make sure the area has been degreased (which I think is all the prep spray is for, but not sure) and free of big flakes. I've talked to a few guys that thinned/sprayed it, but not sure what with. I just brush it on, but for really pitted areas kinda scrub it on with the brush. Make sure to fill all the pits. I have a POR15 engine paint kit I will be attempting to use in the near future, even though in the past I've just used regular POR15.
Left long enough exposed to UV, it will completely break down. I have however left it exposed for over a year without problems other than chalking.
Left long enough exposed to UV, it will completely break down. I have however left it exposed for over a year without problems other than chalking.
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