Overheating only when a/c on
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 718
Likes: 0
From: Miami,Fl
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L6 Srt
Hello guys and gals,
New issue with overheating.. Today i had the a/c system charged, checked for leaks etc.. during this time w/ the jeep running both elect. fans running the jeep was doing great, temp rose one notch higher than 210.. normal right.
As i went for the test drive, i didnt get out the of the parking lot before the needle jumped to one notch before 260.. shut her down let her sit for a lil time.. there was no bubbling in the overfill tank no sign of excesive heating.. So i started her back up temp was down to one notch above 210 and went for the drive.. all seems good until i go to park.. the gauge shot up again, this time all the way to 260 and immediatly shut her down.. this time she was bubbling like crazy and seemed like the rad cap was going to blow off..
Now im here to get your advice and suggestions to fix this issue..
98 xj 4.0l I6
dual electric fans (possible problem)
Most cooling system components are newish.. 2 years max.
Rad, Water pump, hoses new ^^
need to replace thermostat and flush system.. (Coolant was rust brown)
A/c was blowing ice cold got downn to 28 degress F. at center vents.
What should i look to do next..??? Need more info please ask
New issue with overheating.. Today i had the a/c system charged, checked for leaks etc.. during this time w/ the jeep running both elect. fans running the jeep was doing great, temp rose one notch higher than 210.. normal right.
As i went for the test drive, i didnt get out the of the parking lot before the needle jumped to one notch before 260.. shut her down let her sit for a lil time.. there was no bubbling in the overfill tank no sign of excesive heating.. So i started her back up temp was down to one notch above 210 and went for the drive.. all seems good until i go to park.. the gauge shot up again, this time all the way to 260 and immediatly shut her down.. this time she was bubbling like crazy and seemed like the rad cap was going to blow off..
Now im here to get your advice and suggestions to fix this issue..
98 xj 4.0l I6
dual electric fans (possible problem)
Most cooling system components are newish.. 2 years max.
Rad, Water pump, hoses new ^^
need to replace thermostat and flush system.. (Coolant was rust brown)
A/c was blowing ice cold got downn to 28 degress F. at center vents.
What should i look to do next..??? Need more info please ask
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,858
Likes: 1
From: Nor-Cal
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: The venerable 4.0
Not sure but my guess would be the dual electric fan setup. The mechanical fan most likely pulls more then the electric.. at least that's been my experience with every other mechanical fan.. if it only does it at low speed maybe a pusher fan on the outside would help. Allllsooo if its just not working due to your set up and all your equipment is good try putting water wetter in the system. It really does lower the temp.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 8,172
Likes: 17
From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
U've got to have some humpin' thumpin' efans to run a/c (if u remove the mechanical fan).
Last edited by djb383; Jul 17, 2011 at 04:29 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,858
Likes: 1
From: Nor-Cal
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: The venerable 4.0
Originally Posted by djb383
Definately runnin' toasty....2 years max....and coolant is rust brown.....not good. Rust brown coolant can quickly destroy/clog new components.
U've got to have some humpin' thumpin' efans to run a/c (if u remove the mechanical fan).
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 8,172
Likes: 17
From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Sounds to me like the aftermarket efans aren't humpin'/thumpin' enough or "gittin' er done" and there's still some cooling system maintenance issues. LOL
"need to replace thermostat and flush system.. (Coolant was rust brown)"
May be to late, sometimes it's impossible to completely remove all the rust & sediment without all new components & boiling out the block and head.
May be to late, sometimes it's impossible to completely remove all the rust & sediment without all new components & boiling out the block and head.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 8,172
Likes: 17
From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Any cast iron motor is going to rust WHEN the rust/corrosion inhibitors start to degrade. The rust/corrosion inhibitors in antifreeze/coolant don't degrade over night....good/clean coolant doesn't turn rusty brown over night. If the rad cap is removed frequently (ENGINE COLD) and coolant level/color checked and changed at the 1st sign of color change, u won't have rusty brown coolant. If u flush it and refill it with the proper mix and flush/fill as soon as it starts to change color, u'll be able to go longer and longer between color change, flush/refills.
Last edited by djb383; Jul 17, 2011 at 06:19 PM.
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Seasoned Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 281
Likes: 2
From: Garden Prairie
Year: 2000, (1957 Willys)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I have stock cooling fans, heavy duty water pump, and I run right at 210, even today when it is 95+ degrees and the AC is on high constantly.
I am a religious flusher. Every fall. Period. And that includes the heater core.
My dad beat that into me.
I am a religious flusher. Every fall. Period. And that includes the heater core.
My dad beat that into me.
Seasoned Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 268
Likes: 0
From: Waterford, PA
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Regarding water wetter
http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/200...%C2%AE-review/
Sent from my DROIDX using Cherokee Forum
http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/200...%C2%AE-review/
Sent from my DROIDX using Cherokee Forum
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Keystone Heights, Florida
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, 6cyl; everything is stock... for now!
You may need to run a radiator/coolant system flush and deep cleaner. Bars makes a good 10 minute flush. I had to use a 10 minute flush and heavy duty cleaner by Gunk, but I haven't been able to fins that product since I used it. My system started running hot soon after I bought my '94, and I knew I needed to flush the system, since I had to replace the water pump. So I flushed and cleaned the system with the 10 minute flush/cleaner, drained the system, installed the new water pump, flushed the system through with clean water until it ran clear, and finally filled it again. I also added an additional bottle of water pump lubricant, sealer, and rust protectant. So far, my system runs at optimal temperatures; even in the Florida heat, driving 106 miles for five days a week at highway speeds. (60-70mph) Occasionally the elec. fan will kick on to help pull air through the radiator, but that only occurs when I'm sitting idle for 5 minutes or longer towards the end of my trips. Once I start driving again for a minute or so, the elec. fan turns off.
Here's a link to the Bars product at AutoZone: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=248492_0_0_
This may, or may not be the solution to your problem, but it worked in my case.
Hope this helps!
Here's a link to the Bars product at AutoZone: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=248492_0_0_
This may, or may not be the solution to your problem, but it worked in my case.
Hope this helps!
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,858
Likes: 1
From: Nor-Cal
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: The venerable 4.0
Originally Posted by SnakeEyes814
Regarding water wetter
http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/200...%C2%AE-review/
Sent from my DROIDX using Cherokee Forum
http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/200...%C2%AE-review/
Sent from my DROIDX using Cherokee Forum
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 281
Likes: 2
From: Garden Prairie
Year: 2000, (1957 Willys)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
So, if you have a spare hood laying in the back, give me a shout. I'm in Northern Illinois. Man Law amendment... pop the hood, but never leave it unsupervised.
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