Shark_Tank16

Ok so I need a bit of help here. On my last long 4 hour trek up to the mountains from the city, I only made it about an hour into the drive when my temp gauge shot up to the red around 250. My secondary fan was on prior to it shooting up into red. Right at this same time, I leaked a bunch of fluid, could've been oil, but looked more like trans fluid to me. But i think I might've overfilled my trans fluid if that is possible to do?
I decided to turn back since I had another 3 hours to go and had at least 4 more gnarly mountain passes to climb, but made it back ok and wasnt leaking much at all when I got back. Not sure if the two issues are related, but the overheat is my main concern.

Recently, I've gotten a blown head gasket fixed, thermostat, and water pump. It works fine in the city, took it to my mechanic and he was not able to get it to overheat. I need it to work well on these long drives coming to and from where I go to college. The hills and mountains seem to be where it starts to always get too hot. My last full overheat ruined my jeep, I cannot let it happen again! Any ideas on what could be goin on would be greatly appreciated!

BigBear

Did you try adding more coolant?

CrawlerXJ

Check oil. Does it look like a milk shake? If so, head gasket.

The top radiator hose, was it solid when you squeezed it? Making sure t-state is opening.

Shark_Tank16

Coolant was pretty much full. i checked the oil and it looked normal. the top hose was pretty solid from what i remember

DUBarado

I know I had a similar issue when my water pump seized and the belt snapped damaging the tranny cooler line on my jeep... I lost all my coolant and trans fluid at the same time... I'd get under there and see if the belt expanded into the line and rubbed it.

djb383

Take it back to the mechanic and ask him to replace the radiator, fan clutch and rad cap.

CrawlerXJ

Good. Next is the clutch fan. With car off, and keys in hand. Try to spin the fan with a quick turn. It should move but maybe 1/4-1/2". If it moves more than that, it's bad, and that your problem.

If that is good. Next check the radiator cap. I have had MANY fail. Most auto places can test this. I have had them fail months after replacing. Otherwise, just buy one, their cheap. Either way, get that checked out.

Last is the radiator. Remove cap, start Jeep. See if you see the coolant moving.

There isn't much to a cooling system. It's one fo those!

As I stated, all those are a great idea. If OP can't check on his own, take it back.

Shark_Tank16

I will probably just do all of those 3 since they are fairly easy fixes and cuz I'm sick of having overheating issues and see if that fixes the problem. But I will have my mechanic look into that trany cooler line to be sure since i'm no mechanic and don't now much about the trans. Thanks for all the advice guys I really appreciate it!!

Just out of curiosity, how do they test the rad caps? That seems like a small issue that could make big problems if they fail often.

djb383

Rad caps can be tested but at $5 for a new one, just replace it.

CrawlerXJ

By pressure. They connect it to like a pump for lack of a better word.

As others stated. It is only $5. Your call.

scubamark13

I am having the same issues if you figure it out will you please let me know.

CrawlerXJ

Have you tried the ideas we have given?

scubamark13

Yes I have tried the ideas given and more below is a list of what I have done.

Ok so I replaced Everything under the hood that I can think of here is what I installed.
3 row CSF radiator from radiator barn
Hesco hi flow water pump
Hesco hi flow thermostat housing
OEM 195 tstat
upper and lower hoses
heater control valve
heater hoses
fan clutch
serpentine belt
Radiator cap 13lbs stock and 16lb just to check
new Autometer water temp gauge
B&M trans cooler I also bypassed the radiator
Plugs cap and rotor wires and air filter.

I have also checked the compression all 6 were around 145
had a block test done no gasses in the coolant.
no water in the oil and no oil in the water
electric fan is wired to a switch which is on all the time.
I have checked under hood temps with an IR gun and all temps towards the front of the engine seem ok, its only hot back where the sending unit is and around the back of the motor. I have flushed the motor several times with chemicals and with the Prestone kit.

I had a mechanic look at it and he couldn't figure it out either. I have basically come to the conclusion I am going to drive it til it blows then replace head or motor. I really hope I can figure this out before that happens though I really can't afford to to much more.

Thanks for your help,
Mark

CrawlerXJ

What is your temp?

The Hayden trans cooler is better than B&M. B&M is 19,000 and Hayden is 22,000 and can tow 5,000lbs. Just FYI for next time.

Also, I am not a fan of 195* stat on Jeeps. I run a 180* stat and drilled 1/8" hole on the side for extra flow.

Also, did you put the YJ/ZJ fan clutch on? Or standard duty XJ? I put a Autozone fan clutch on my YJ years ago (new) and it didnt cool it. Switched to the Hayden and problem solved!

I also installed it on my XJ. Link below.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/put...photos-140789/

Shark_Tank16

I am at the same point. After having it looked at more closely by my mechanic, it looks as if my only solution is to get a new engine. My block is very warped and due to the intitial overheat last year, a twist is making head and manifold sealing very difficult. It will run ok for a while in town, but It cannot run where I need it the most without an efficient and pricey fix. I am about outta money here and need a reliable mode of transportation. I've got a tough choice to make here.