I'm about to go about repairing my drum brakes on my 8.25 and would like your opinion on what all should be replaced. I'm fairly certain that I'll need all the hardware, shoes and wheel cylinders, I'm just not sure about the drums.

I attached pics of and overall view around the cylinder, the condition of the shoes, and condition of the drums.

 

At the store ask for a "drum brake hardware kit" It should include all new springs and clips. If the drums aren't rutted, pitted or warped you should be okay.

Are the wheel cylinders leaking or something?

 

I didn't see any leaking, but they stick, everytime i let off the brakes from a stop they kind of clunk.

 

Mine did that but it was because the drums weren't adjusted correctly. Believe me unless you have an issue with the wheel cylinders there is no need to replace them. You aren't going to have fun replacing them only to find out it was a different issue.

 

So I should prob just go with the hardware kit and shoes for now?

 

Yes. Make sure everything is adjusted correctly before test driving.

 

You should replace the adjuster cable also. I dont think the kits come with it.
My wheel cylinder was sticking also on one side and I replaced it and the problem was fixed. But my rear brake lines were pretty rusted and ended up having to replace the rear line since it wouldnt twist out the wheel cylinder

 

I would replace the wheel cylinders too, it's just cheap insurance and I bet there is some pitting inside the cylinder bores.

 

Cheap insurance but be warned of the time and difficulty involved. Make sure you pick up brake fluid if you replace them. Also tools to bleed the brakes if you don't have a helper to pump the pedal.

 

Hardware kit and adjuster kit for each side. Probably drums too as most I've seen are usually at their max and can't be machined anymore.

 

Discovered something of interest while adjusting my driver side drum, in the pic u can see there a quite enlarge gap where the star adjuster meets the little flange thing.

 

I don't see anything that looks like it needs to be replaced right away. While a little thin, you still have quite a bit of meat on the shoes and there's no evidence of fluid leaking. If you plan to replace everything, I'd be inclined to go a while unless you are having braking problems.

 

The "flange thing" is the self adjuster. At best, they work so-so anyway. If the brakes are working, drive it.

 

Make sure the adjuster cable is routed correctly and make sure the cable guide is in place.