All I can find online is one ring (Large) for a 99' Cherokee Sport. Am I missing something? Or is Autozone and Advanced Auto?

If anyone has a source for 3-piece set, let me know.

Go to the dealership for the 3 piece set. It was like $12 or something, like that.

Yep, I got the 3-ring kit today at the dealer, $9.
Then I got the four piece Torx bit set at Sears (removable bits) $40.
The single T-55 Torx bit that I need for my 99' is online but OHHHH HECK NO, they don't sell the single T-55 in the stores.

Now I just can't seem to loosen the damn bolt!
I'm going to Harbor Frieght to get a set of "Long handle" combination wrenches to see if those will give me more leverage and/or a chance to slide a "pipe of encouragement" over the wrench. (not my standard brand of tools though).

And to think that I thought this would be an easy project prior to the rear main seal. Ugh.

When you go to Harbor Freight, get a set of socket caps too. They were like $5, but that was the ONLY way i could get to that bolt.

I just finished mine up today. Used some Great Neck Torx sockets and a Great Neck 3/8 socket breaker bar both from AutoZone. I bought the Oil filter cover gasket set from Autozone which was Part # 82560 which was $8.99. I did not want to wait to goto the dealer.

Before putting the torx bolt back in I noticed that the holes in the torx bolt.

The Million dollar question... Are these holes supposed to line up a certain way? I hope i got them the correct way???

So I am glad others have tackled this problem...I have never had to do this myself but got it done with a cheater bar.

http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...nt_O-Rings.htm

this link provided in an earlier post IS very helpful in understanding what the extracted oil filter adapter looks like and how/where to replace the (3 0-rings)

I bought the hex bolt that was embedded in the socket and pounded it out...I found a 12 or 15mm small wrench (there is not enough room between the adapter and engine mount for normal socket sets) and duck taped it to the hex bolt after removing it from the socket.

1995 Jeep Cherokee Sport (120K miles) in-line 6 4.0L
t-60 Hex bolt ($7)
went to O'rielly's for the o-ring (kit) had like 20 o-rings in it ($6)
cant remember if it was 12 or 15mm (had one)
cheater bar (long hollow metal bar to use on the wrench) ((had one))
new oil filter, oil ($20)


I used a cheater bar from the top of the cherokee and after breaking one wrench and using another got the damn adapter loose...after that it SIMPLE....just drain your oil, replace the 0-rings and oil filter...omg how simple it all seemed after doing it and the leak was bad enough to have to add 1qt of oil a day...now no leak and a lot of simple green all over the bottom of the engine makes for a job well done.

One of my youthful jobs was removing, cleaning & dismantling Cummins diesels, prior to rebuild

Ever since then, I have the same method of finding oil leaks

degrease and clean the suspect area until it is spotless, takes an effort, messy, careful with the power hose

continue to wipe the area down with rags, till its clean, I can run my finger, no oil or grease

short drive, run the finger or rag along, find oil leak

Mechanics wont do this, as it takes too long, is messy & annoying, not EPA or OH&S friendly

you can also put UV dye in the oil, find the leaks with UV torch, still should degrease engine first

I consider it part of maintenance, and degrease my engines annually, prior to Roadworthy Inspection

always makes a favorable impression on the inspector when he see a perfectly clean engine, drivetrain & underside