I have a leak, it gets the whole bottom of the car covered. It's not from the oil pan. I did the rear main about a year ago and didn't leak after that but I'm thinking its that again. Or maybe the oil filter adapter cause there's a little oil around that. This picture shows where the oils leaking from, is that the rear main again? And is that plate suppose to be pushed out like that or flush?

 

It can be the RMS again or oil filter adapter or even the valve cover. You need to wipe it all down and keep an eye on it to locate it.

 

Front CS seal on mine leaks a little. After taking into account the rearward tilt of the engine and airflow across the engine plus gravity, the whole bottom of my engine/tranny has an oily look to it. Gonna replace the seal (timing chain/sprockets, too) when it gets warmer out...

 

Here's how YOU figure it out:

　
I'd be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF.
Everybody, who doesn't own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking.
Many mechanics, friends, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?
A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don't jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.

Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons.
First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber's adage apply here. "$hit flows downhill".

Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first.
Revised 9-15-2012

 

Everything's been replaced and now with the engine running it has a constant drip. Anyone wanna buy a jeep? Guess this is why idiots shouldn't work on engines.

 

What is the source of the leak? You certainly are well equipped and qualified to determine that.

 

I replaced the valve cover gasket and now it smokes from the rear of the cover. And with the engine on there's a constant drip from the rear main area, I believe it's cause the oil pan gasket, the part that goes around the crank isn't sitting right. And now that I think of it, the pan in that area has a little ripple in it.

I had a small leak, tried to fix it and now I have a bad leak..

 

One advantage of it leaking is that it will not rust out as fast. A thin coat of oil will make it go faster and get better gas mileage as it will slip through the air easier.

Ron

 

Which valve cover gasket did you use? Cork or Felpro?

 

Whats your veiw on the 2 ?
Im not real impressed with the Fel Pro I just put on.

 

I always add form a gasket #2 when replacing a gasket. Helps get a seal when there are "variances" between the two surfaces being sealed.

 

If there is a gasket I tend to not use sealer unless its just used to hold the gasket while I assemble. There are exceptions tho. My chevys big and small block things like VC gaskets. Cork and glued to VC. Intake ends I use ultra black or grey death (the sealer IH uses to build 7.3 PSD engines ) I use the normal spot on main seals. I hate oil leaks my air cooled VWs would seep but if they started pouring oil out it was time to fix it.

 

Felpro blue, which costs about $40 is impossible to screw up.

 

Yeah thats what I put on but ,I was not liking the groment/bolt setup. I paid alittle less than that and the 6 new plugs. trying to fix a random low idle issue.

 

I used cork and prolly crushed it