Almost every name brand oil out today is quality by todays standards. And most oil change intervals NOW, not in our 10-25 year old jeeps. Recent engines are built for that, not older engines.

 

Wouldn't it be the same? New or old? Metal to metal friction is the same isn't it? So using a newer, better quality oil is the same in both a "new" engine and our older 4.0?

 

Not really, take a look at what metal and properties are in our jeeps engines, now take a look at a 2011 accord.

 

The 3 month/ 3k is not a "myth". It ALLLLLL depends on driving conditions. ONLY UOA's will tell you what you need to do.

 

Ehhh...I"ll take your word for it. That is what the Internet is all about isn't it? Lol

 

so how does that make it true?

If it all depends on driving habits, how can we hold to the 3/3?

I again point back to my original assertion.

I would tend to agree with you, its just my opinion, but I do not think that since the time that the 4.0 was designed, the material properties of bearings have changed very much or dramatically improved

 

I didnt realize the new 2011s had hondabtainum bearings

 

Well now you know lol.

 

engine construction does have some impact on OCI and oil type, but not much. Your OCI should always be determined by your personal driving style and the environmental conditions.

The 3000 mile oil change is the brainchild of Jiffy Lube in the 1970s. It was primarily not for oil change purposes, but more for the idea that the average Joe doesn't know a thing about how their vehicle operates, and a 3000 mile checkup is a good idea to keep everything in working order (also figure that the person would likely stretch this to 4000-5000 miles on average). The typical auto maintenance schedule lists items in 5k increments usually, which agrees with this checkup philosophy (even though the quick lube practice also made more money off the oil changes).

Now, newer cars tend to have improved emission controls that produce cleaner running engines and don’t contaminate the oil as quickly - thus the trend of increasing manufacturer recommended OCIs. The same holds true for well-maintained cars; an old air or fuel filter and worn-out spark plugs will create more contaminants that can make the oil dirty and abrasive. Severe driving conditions also increase the contaminants.

Basically, it's up to you as the driver to evaluate your OCI for your personal goals (engine longevity perhaps) and driving conditions/style

 

Ok, for the average public, if someone didn't hammer them for the 3/3 or something close the would over go on the OCI's, I promise. I run my own repair shop, and people will go 10K (or more) without some kind of reminder, also, during this time they won't check the tire pressures or anything else related to maintaining the car. The main reason for the 3/3 is to get the car in the shop on a reg basis and make sure everything is ok. Now I am in the middle of a city where some people never travel more than a block at a time, that is torturous to engines, no matter the type. As far as me "recommending" a OCI, I'd say start at the good or 3/3, and do UOA's until you know how far you can go for your driving conditions.

 

What's the big problem??? Most everyone here claims their rigs leak oil and need to add every so often. Just throw in a new filter every now and then and call it a day.

Don't hate me...I thought it was funny.

 

Ok, so now that we have elaborated on oil filter... how about oil? my 192K Renix is getting new sensors, seals, and fluids ALL the way around. Im thinking of going to a full synthetic, maybe Mobil1. If not permanantly, but at least to do a good few hundred miles on a synth to flush the motor...
Im all ears!

 

royal purple 10w-30 is what I use and I would recommend it. It is pricey but your change intervals will be stretched out much further and make up for it.

 

I use WIX. its better than Fram by leaps and bounds and I get mine for around the 3$ mark online. I buy 50 at a time.

 

No, but they did have a great deal of explanations on this matter if you take the many of the ASE Certification Classes, alot of this is hands on too.


Not just bearings but engine components themselves. Many production cars have moved onto forged parts basically throughout, which used to be in strictly racing or high performance vehicles.