Which oil and filter you running
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,858
Likes: 1
From: Nor-Cal
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: The venerable 4.0
Originally Posted by Moncheche
I suggest you do some research. All the synthetics have different levels of additives, proprietary blends, that they feel are best for engines. Zinc, phosphorus, calcium, etc. Synthetic oil is more than just 'man-made molecules'.
After reading ACTUAL research, synthetics are good for at least 10,000 miles. Some research in actual driving conditions revealed that the oil was still performing well beyond 20,000 miles. The wildcards in the equation are your oil filter and conditions. Poor filtration wrecks any motor oils performance. Rough conditions dictate shorter change intervals.
After research, I have opted for 10,000 mile intervals, or changing it after every winter. They happen to roughly coincide.
As far as which syn to use, I haven't seen any data that locks me into a particular brand. I have found Mobil 1 to test just fine, and to be on sale the most. So, that's my choice. If I can be accused of having an old habit that may or may not make a difference, it's not switching between brands. I just don't have any evidence to support that switching is harmful or not.
Below are some people that sought facts rather than assumptions.
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html
http://siennachat.com/forum/index.php?topic=1929.15
http://www.firstfives.org/faq/oil/oilartcl.html
http://www.autowebplan.com/Car_Data/...ctions_30.html
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,844
Likes: 4
From: Glen Burnie, MD
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 H.O. K&N, Borla headers, custom down pipe, magnaflow hi-flo cat, flowmaster to turn down tip
do not use fram, there filters fall apart during normal operating conditions. the times i used Fram, at the oil change interval (3000mi) i could shake the filter back and forth after the oil was pored out, and the filter itself would slap back and forth in the case. i like to use the half sleeved mobile 1 filters, i use them in my T/A and in my jeep. there work great and you can usually get a good combo deal with them on some Valvoline syntech!
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,844
Likes: 4
From: Glen Burnie, MD
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 H.O. K&N, Borla headers, custom down pipe, magnaflow hi-flo cat, flowmaster to turn down tip
i used to run Purolator all the time, and loved it, but i can not find it anywhere but Pep Boys, and the closest one out here is 1 hour away. so i use Mobile one.
FWIW, K&N was rated pretty high by reviews.
FWIW, K&N was rated pretty high by reviews.
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: AZ Territory Border Country
Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I ran Mobil 1 oil in my 1998 TJ for 7 years without any problems. Being used in the High temp area,Southern Nevada Desert, I still changed oil every 3000 miles. No leaks, ran cool, no problems.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,992
Likes: 0
From: West Bloomfield,MI
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L, CAI, Edelbrock Breather, Optima Yellowtop
I suggest you do some research. All the synthetics have different levels of additives, proprietary blends, that they feel are best for engines. Zinc, phosphorus, calcium, etc. Synthetic oil is more than just 'man-made molecules'.
After reading ACTUAL research, synthetics are good for at least 10,000 miles. Some research in actual driving conditions revealed that the oil was still performing well beyond 20,000 miles. The wildcards in the equation are your oil filter and conditions. Poor filtration wrecks any motor oils performance. Rough conditions dictate shorter change intervals.
After research, I have opted for 10,000 mile intervals, or changing it after every winter. They happen to roughly coincide.
As far as which syn to use, I haven't seen any data that locks me into a particular brand. I have found Mobil 1 to test just fine, and to be on sale the most. So, that's my choice. If I can be accused of having an old habit that may or may not make a difference, it's not switching between brands. I just don't have any evidence to support that switching is harmful or not.
Below are some people that sought facts rather than assumptions.
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html
http://siennachat.com/forum/index.php?topic=1929.15
http://www.firstfives.org/faq/oil/oilartcl.html
http://www.autowebplan.com/Car_Data/...ctions_30.html
After reading ACTUAL research, synthetics are good for at least 10,000 miles. Some research in actual driving conditions revealed that the oil was still performing well beyond 20,000 miles. The wildcards in the equation are your oil filter and conditions. Poor filtration wrecks any motor oils performance. Rough conditions dictate shorter change intervals.
After research, I have opted for 10,000 mile intervals, or changing it after every winter. They happen to roughly coincide.
As far as which syn to use, I haven't seen any data that locks me into a particular brand. I have found Mobil 1 to test just fine, and to be on sale the most. So, that's my choice. If I can be accused of having an old habit that may or may not make a difference, it's not switching between brands. I just don't have any evidence to support that switching is harmful or not.
Below are some people that sought facts rather than assumptions.
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html
http://siennachat.com/forum/index.php?topic=1929.15
http://www.firstfives.org/faq/oil/oilartcl.html
http://www.autowebplan.com/Car_Data/...ctions_30.html

I haven't gone as high as 10k oil changes, but I just stay at 6k to be safe. How long have you been doing this for? I don't doubt how long lasting synthetic oil is, but I'm just curious.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,023
Likes: 1
From: Southern Idaho
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L/242 CID I-6 High Output MFI
I run Castrol 10W30 (summer) 5W30 (winter) and a k&n filter. The k&n makes it nice because it has a filter bolt-like head on top since its hard to get a tool the goes around it down in there. Don't use a Wix filter. The autoparts was out of our normal filter for our other work truck, so we just got a Wix and it started a valvetrain tap, switched back no tap. Also don't use synthetic on older vehicles. My mom took her '93 zj to the stealership for some work and they changed the oil. They put synthetic in and it still has that valvetrain tap.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,023
Likes: 1
From: Southern Idaho
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L/242 CID I-6 High Output MFI
Just a general note: if you're going to go with extended intervals with your synthetic, make sure your filter can handle it, or change your filter more frequently.
Most all the synthetics with agood filter-Wix-Pure One- K & N-Mobil One- is an excellent choice.
The debate is really what TYPE of oil--5W30 vs 10W40 and so on. Synthetis vs Dino
Most cars of the same brand like anything else are not all ALIKE or are put through the same rigors in their life.
I would say that lower start up viscosity is better UNLESS you have a bearing-lifter-oil pump problems. I have run-0W30-5W-30- 10W30- 10W40-
My Jeep here in Vegas gets.much different attention than if I was in Canada.
Here in Nevada I have a PureOne with some 10W30-I also never had an engine oil pressure problem except where I had LOW pressure at idle- after some oil changes and good filters my pressure came up to specs+ 10psi. So I assume there was some crud built up that came out with some quick changes.
In a NY winter I would have changed in the Fall to 0-5W-30 instead of the 10W30-40 I would have had in from the Summer .
The debate is really what TYPE of oil--5W30 vs 10W40 and so on. Synthetis vs Dino
Most cars of the same brand like anything else are not all ALIKE or are put through the same rigors in their life.
I would say that lower start up viscosity is better UNLESS you have a bearing-lifter-oil pump problems. I have run-0W30-5W-30- 10W30- 10W40-
My Jeep here in Vegas gets.much different attention than if I was in Canada.
Here in Nevada I have a PureOne with some 10W30-I also never had an engine oil pressure problem except where I had LOW pressure at idle- after some oil changes and good filters my pressure came up to specs+ 10psi. So I assume there was some crud built up that came out with some quick changes.
In a NY winter I would have changed in the Fall to 0-5W-30 instead of the 10W30-40 I would have had in from the Summer .
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,845
Likes: 3
From: S.E. Tx
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 firepower ignition, cat-back w/ magnaflow muffler, poweraid tb spacer, optima blue top
As with all things, I don't think you should rate something just based on a couple of experiences. Consumer Reports rated both the Purolator and the Wix very high. Many people trust these filters. The myth about using a synthetic in older vehicles is also misrepresented. The reason that the valve tap was sounding with synthetic in is because it flows better than conventional and conventional can actually "smother" the tapping symptoms, just like using a heavier weight oil can. Don't say something is bad just from one experience. It's like calling all Sony televisions pieces of crap because that person happened to get a bad one in the bunch. I could say "don't use conventional" and back it up a lot better with actual facts about its performance compared to full synthetic.
This is not meant for conflict and i mean no offense.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,023
Likes: 1
From: Southern Idaho
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L/242 CID I-6 High Output MFI
I have a Wix on now. No difference from any other I've had on. Same lifter tap as usual. I rate something based on a combination of experience and lots of research.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 281
Likes: 2
From: Garden Prairie
Year: 2000, (1957 Willys)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
) My wife is hard on vehicles, so it's a testament to the oils durability.My last DD was a 95 corolla with 230,000. I scrapped it when the gas tank fell off. (the frame was rusted so badly, I had no place to hang it!) The motor purred. Never a problem. 10,000 intervals on that motor.
I used fram filters for a few years until that consumer reports test came out. About made me sick to see that I could have just jammed some coffee filters in a mayonnaise jar and filtered the oil better.
From what I have read, heat isn't a problem for synthetics. Cold weather (technically anything below 65) is when oils start to deposit waxes onto your engine. That is why I change the oil when spring rolls around. That, and the fact that I just had several months of cold, hard starts, and I want to get the impurities from those starts out of my engine.
I am a huge believer in block heaters as well. Block, lower radiator hose, however you can keep the oil warmer. It helps.
High mileage oil is a waste of money--I use regular store brand oil--in my case it's OReilly house brand--10-30 weight and a quart of Lucas oil stabilizer and an ac delco filter. Stay away from regular Fram oil filters--they use recycled cardboard to hold the filter material together--if you must use a Fram go with the extraguard version.


