Hey all... I know there are a few threads on this. I have a 1998 XJ, 4.0L that I cannot get the oil filter adapter off of to change the o-ring. I have changed more than one of these in the past but this one will not break free. Used a T60 torx that I punched out of the socket, the stem is 9MM that I put into a "pass through" socket (not sure what the technical name is) with a small bar on the ratchet and I busted the socket. As I said, I've used this a few times in the past without fail... not sure where to go from here.

 

If all else fails you can lift the motor out of the engine bay. It only really takes like 2 hours to do.

 

In my frustration, I considered that today... I've never had one stuck like this before.

 

I've also heard of people welding the torx to the socket when they do this modification. I don't think that would be to difficult. If the socket you used is cheap that may be why it broke. Grab a 9mm impact gun socket, those are so much stronger than normal chrome plated sockets.

All in all though take a deep breath and think about it methodically is always what I say to myself when I get in these situations. It is just one bolt so your going to be able to break it, you may just need to think more outside the box.

 

I may give a 1/2 T60 shank bit a try with a long handle wrench and bar. I just found a video of a guy using and impact socket and serpentine belt bar. That's creative!

 

Try putting the Torx bit in two wrenches, another member here recommended that awhile back.

 

Maybe these will help
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/oi...sy-way-202039/
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/tri...adapter-91149/
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/too...sy-way-202038/

 

This is what I used with a 5ft pipe on it .

 

Thanks... much appreciated.

 

Whoa... I really like this idea of removing the adapter all together!! This is great!! (Thanks Amazon for the stubby torx set)

 

That you'll get mixed opinions on... I personally wouldn't do it.

 

I would try to tighten the bolt first to see if you can break it loose, then back it off as normal. Old plumbers trick on cast iron....

 

There's nothing at all wrong with eliminating the adapter altogether. Just make sure you take along some floor-dry, 6 quarts of oil, a funnel, and a spare oil filter.

 

The only way I have seen the stock adapter eliminated is that a adapter is added for hoses and a remote filter with a cooler is added in . I don't think there is enough room for a filter to sit there .

 

I raised the engine and used a breaker bar on my 98. Remove the air box from the left side (15mm hardware). With a jack under the engine, loosen the 13mm nuts from the trans mount (I backed mine completely off) and remove the 15mm hardware from the main mounts. Better to take off the 15 mm frame hardware from the mounts rather than try to remove the two long bolts. Raise it up to get clearance for the breaker bar. The whole process up to that point is maybe 15 minutes and sure beats the alternative muscle-over-mind madness.