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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Or, get the pump / tool to pull the oil out the dipstick and change it that way. Then do the project in the spring / summer.
As much as I genuinely would love to just drop the pan and replace my rear main, pan gasket, and the pan all together, I don't have the time or funds right now, plus my driveway hasn't melted since the 1st of the year, so I'm stuck dealing with alternatives. I'm going to try welding a nut over the top of my shredded drain plug and have an oversized replacement on hand before I start.
After many frustrating attempts, I was finally able to change my oil. I finally was able to weld a larger grade 8 nut over my stripped drain plug by clamping the new nut in a Crescent wrench and putting my ground clamp on the wrench. Used some flux core wire and boogered it on there, and it broke loose pretty easily with a breaker bar. Threads were perfect, and I didn't end up needed my oversize self tapping drain plugs!
Just wanted to update for those in the future searching for help or a solution to a similar issue!
I'm late to posting but I'll post anyways for future use. Just today my teacher was telling us that he was able to get a rounded drain plug off with an air chisel, with enough care and patience. Another time when the pan threads were messed up he used a type of drain plug with another drain plug inside of it, or they also make those quick drain things with a valve on them.
Another time when the pan threads were messed up he used a type of drain plug with another drain plug inside of it, or they also make those quick drain things with a valve on them.
The drain plug with another plug inside is called a "piggyback". I was able to get single oversize and double oversize at NAPA, P/N NOE 7041019 and NOE 7041018.
The quick drain would be a Fumoto 1/2-20, pick which flavor you prefer.
In your photo, I didn't see any gasket. That's probably why it was so tight.
You're correct. The first time I attempted to get it off, there was some remnants of RTV, but no rubber gasket or copper crush washer. Remember, kids, don't forget the gasket!
You should buy a Mopar plug. It has a large diameter washerhead with a ring gasket that looks like an o-ring. With that you only tighten it until it stops, NO MORE! We used to stock them at Valvoline Instant Oil Change and didn't charge for replacement if they'd been overtightened and stretched the threads.
I just replaced my oil plug at my last oil change and used the Napa version of that which I am pretty sure is just a rebranded Dorman.
Fit fine and all appears well.
The threads on my 78 bronco went bad. My mechanic welded a short section of pipe over the hole, installed a new plug and I was back in business. I do not know if he removed the pan to weld or not.