OEM thermostats are now MotoRad?
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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From: columbia, pa
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,053
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From: columbia, pa
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Found this also!!
http://www.motoradhd.com/MotoRad%20H...ange%20-OE.pdf
4001-95 is the same as 52028186
4001-80 is the same as 83502426
http://www.motoradhd.com/MotoRad%20H...ange%20-OE.pdf
4001-95 is the same as 52028186
4001-80 is the same as 83502426
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Joined: Jan 2013
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From: columbia, pa
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
It seems they have 3 levels.
Standard
High Flow, which has the valve.
Fail Safe.
I'm thinking we want the HighFlow to match whatever factory is.
http://www.motoradusa.com/thermostats/
Standard
High Flow, which has the valve.
Fail Safe.
I'm thinking we want the HighFlow to match whatever factory is.
http://www.motoradusa.com/thermostats/
Last edited by cruiser54; Dec 14, 2013 at 09:06 AM.
Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 149
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From: Colorado
Year: '92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Geez,,, I am in the similar realm right now as after first a t-stat /water outlet change and then an entire cooling system replace -Just cause I was in there already and rad was leaking a bit. new w-pump too !
the new Duralast t-stat maybe faulty since I am getting temp readings between 185 to 205 ish (never above though) at crusin.
Prior to all that my temp gauge was rock steady !
So what is the consensus:buy the MotoRad from the dealer or is there another source i.e
O'Reilly etc?
I am seeing alot of reviews saying Motorad FailSafe are crap which I have also heard round here
the new Duralast t-stat maybe faulty since I am getting temp readings between 185 to 205 ish (never above though) at crusin.
Prior to all that my temp gauge was rock steady !
So what is the consensus:buy the MotoRad from the dealer or is there another source i.e
O'Reilly etc?
I am seeing alot of reviews saying Motorad FailSafe are crap which I have also heard round here
Last edited by sturoc; Dec 16, 2013 at 01:38 PM.
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Joined: Nov 2009
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From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Think about it......if a vehicle is being operated in very cold temps, and the heater is being used, the heat removed from the cooling system (via the heater core and externally) may be enough for coolant to not quite reach the stat "open temp"....thus the stat remains closed (as it should) and the gauge indicating a slightly lower than familiar reading. Lot's of variables come into play and there are few parts on a vehicle that can be tested as easily as a t-stat.
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,578
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Geez,,, I am in the similar realm right now as after first a t-stat /water outlet change and then an entire cooling system replace -Just cause I was in there already and rad was leaking a bit. new w-pump too !
the new Duralast t-stat maybe faulty since I am getting temp readings between 185 to 205 ish (never above though) at crusin.
Prior to all that my temp gauge was rock steady !
So what is the consensus:buy the MotoRad from the dealer or is there another source i.e
O'Reilly etc?
I am seeing alot of reviews saying Motorad FailSafe are crap which I have also heard round here
I would just go with a regular nothing special T-stat
Better to get the one with small hole ?
About to do this change out today...
the new Duralast t-stat maybe faulty since I am getting temp readings between 185 to 205 ish (never above though) at crusin.
Prior to all that my temp gauge was rock steady !
So what is the consensus:buy the MotoRad from the dealer or is there another source i.e
O'Reilly etc?
I am seeing alot of reviews saying Motorad FailSafe are crap which I have also heard round here
I would just go with a regular nothing special T-stat
Better to get the one with small hole ?
About to do this change out today...
We know the ones from the dealer work well. We're trying to find out which one in the aftermarket is available for a reasonable price.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Fauquier County, Virginia
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 HO
So is it safe to assume that the motorad thermostat (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...698&cc=1180055) is the way to go? Dealer has offered a generous discount to $20+ for their stat, which is ridiculous. My 'stant' stat now fluctuates in temps rather insanely, especially with the cold weather. It gets to operating temp, and then it's like the stat just slams wide open and the temps drop down to the middle hash-mark. Repeat over and over until finally the temps 'stabalize' but still rarely get within 1/8" of the 210 mark.
Also, the listing for the Motorad above says the operating temp is 192* F. Could this be a mistake?
Also, the listing for the Motorad above says the operating temp is 192* F. Could this be a mistake?
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
So is it safe to assume that the motorad thermostat (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...698&cc=1180055) is the way to go? Dealer has offered a generous discount to $20+ for their stat, which is ridiculous. My 'stant' stat now fluctuates in temps rather insanely, especially with the cold weather. It gets to operating temp, and then it's like the stat just slams wide open and the temps drop down to the middle hash-mark. Repeat over and over until finally the temps 'stabalize' but still rarely get within 1/8" of the 210 mark.
Also, the listing for the Motorad above says the operating temp is 192* F. Could this be a mistake?
Also, the listing for the Motorad above says the operating temp is 192* F. Could this be a mistake?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 203
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From: Vancouver, BC
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
So is it safe to assume that the motorad thermostat (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...698&cc=1180055) is the way to go? Dealer has offered a generous discount to $20+ for their stat, which is ridiculous. My 'stant' stat now fluctuates in temps rather insanely, especially with the cold weather. It gets to operating temp, and then it's like the stat just slams wide open and the temps drop down to the middle hash-mark. Repeat over and over until finally the temps 'stabalize' but still rarely get within 1/8" of the 210 mark.
Also, the listing for the Motorad above says the operating temp is 192* F. Could this be a mistake?
Also, the listing for the Motorad above says the operating temp is 192* F. Could this be a mistake?
The part number listed earlier as a cross over for the Jeep part # but missing the AC is actually a little different:
52028185 <===> 4001-95
Not sure how this plays out in terms of differences, but the part numbers listed on MotoRads website for a Jeep Cherokee is either their "Standard" 200-195 or the "High-Flow" 2000-195.
Hopefully someone has the time to make a trip to the parts store and see if any of the numbers on a MotoRad thermostat are similar to the dealer ones.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Fauquier County, Virginia
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 HO
I'll be the pig of guinea. Ordering the listed link t-stat now (MotoRad high flow, NOT FAIL SAFE with jiggle valve and junk) from RockAuto. Cost is $10.05 ($3.41 part + $6.64 shipping). When it gets here, do ya'll want numbers and junk off it before I install?
Btw Cruiser, I still owe you a prop valve write-up. I just haven't gotten to it yet.
Btw Cruiser, I still owe you a prop valve write-up. I just haven't gotten to it yet.
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,578
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I'll be the pig of guinea. Ordering the listed link t-stat now (MotoRad high flow, NOT FAIL SAFE with jiggle valve and junk) from RockAuto. Cost is $10.05 ($3.41 part + $6.64 shipping). When it gets here, do ya'll want numbers and junk off it before I install?
Btw Cruiser, I still owe you a prop valve write-up. I just haven't gotten to it yet.
Btw Cruiser, I still owe you a prop valve write-up. I just haven't gotten to it yet.
$3.41 sounds too cheap for a high-flow.