I've got a 98 XJ with a 8.25 rear axle that came with an oem Limited Slip Diff. I'm a college student, so my budget is really limited, and I was wondering if it is possible to rebuild the LS diff? It would be at least a little nicer off road and in snowy weather. Otherwise I guess I'll be looking for a lunchbox locker for the front.


-Thanks

 

How do you know it has an LSD?

 

Emailed Chrysler for a build sheet of my cherokee. Unless someone pulled it out, which I highly doubt, it should still be in there.

 

You might be able to find a rebuild kit, this is all i have found

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-25-8-1-4-D...-/271275118841

Is yours worn out? LS sucks offroad, especially in the rocks.

 

Best way to check is glove box, there will be a sticker mentioning you have one. Mopar is the place to eat it, they use it in their Durango and Dakota 8.25 axles too. If you want and if your original friction plates are good, you can do a mod to get more grip, instead of having just three friction plates on each side, do four of them. Can't remember the order exactly but it just like the 8.8 LSD mod but without the S-shape tension spring.

 

I swear you've ask this before? I know I've explain many times how to find out in a jeep. Here's pics of mine to show

 

One easy thing to do is to change your diff fluid and add the required LS friction modifier. The modifier breaks down over time and will cause the factory LS to not work. Sometimes adding it back in will get everything working properly again.

 

Did you mean to quote me?

I only asked because there is a plethora of stupid people who think they have a LSD when they don't. As long as the OP has proof, its no big deal. Just verifying information to give a good, well rounded answer. That's all well and good you have blurry pictures of an old label, for that, I thank you.

 

It is definitely worn out. It was 120k miles on it, so I'm assuming the clutch plates are done, even if I added more friction modifier as mentioned in the quote below.

would the plates have lasted all those miles after the friction modifier broke down? Id almost rather rebuild it if I can do it all for under $100.

And to demonoid369, I'm interested in that friction mod. Any idea where to find a guid on that? I don't want to just try it and and up putting too much stress on my diff in a way it isn't supposed to. If It just makes it more like a locker, I may give it a shot.


Also, I know LSDs suck off road, but they are better than open diffs. If I am going to get a rear locker, I'm getting a selectable one, and I just can't afford that on my budget. I'm just trying to get any boost in performance that I can, and it is also mainly for winter weather in CO. Like I mentioned, I can save up and find a D30 locker for not too expensive, and because of the non-locking hubs, I can get away with it on-road. When I graduate in a few years and make some real money I'll get proper lockers


edit, sorry, but I'm not in the same city as my jeep at this moment, and have never looked for that sticker, but I see no reason not to trust my build sheet from Chrysler. I'll ask my dad to go check on it one of these days, but I'm almost positive it is there. I've had it on a jack and spun the wheels, both front and rear. The front is a lot easier to spin than the rear. Id think if the rear was open, it would spin as easily as the front. Could just be that 4X4 isn't engaged, but I'm just speculating.

 

Ya it was for you but maybe it wasn't you who asked a bunch of times how to tell if some one had a LSD axle.

And can't tell if your being serious or sarcastic lol mines a bit faded but it give people a idea and some readability as to what to look for.

 

If u really have a LSD, get your torque wrench out and test the LSD. Jack 1 wheel of the ground and turn the wheel with the torque wrench set at 30 lbs. If the wheel turns before the the wrench measures 30, then the clutches r bad. 30 ft/lbs is the minimum according to the FSM. Above 30, the clutches r good. Test both sides.

The info regarding LSD additive not accurate. The additive makes the clutches slip more, not less. It's not necessary to use the additive unless the diff is noisy/chatters in a tight turn. Again, the additive will make the clutches slip more/sooner making a one tire fire happen quicker.

With regard to a selectable diff, they are a open diff when off and a spool (no diff at all) when on. A spool is miserable on any surface resembling pavement and a open diff is.....well u know.

 

My 99 was marked as having a LS in the glove box. Didn't have one though. One of the easiest ways to find out is to jack up the rear end, put the vehicle in neutral, parking brake off and turn one wheel. If the other one turns backwards then most likely open. G80 used by GM is one of the big exceptions since its a torsen style locking diff it functions a little differently. Some of the LS's will do something really weird like lock the axle, unlock the axle (you'll feel the clutches biting and letting go as you spin the wheel). Some will counter spin the other wheel (like open) then spin it the direction you're turning it.

 

Someone swapped your axle then if you didn't have one, or yours was worn down enough to just act fully like a open diff

 

......and locking diffs are different than limited slip diffs.

 

The glove box got swapped at some point. The VIN came back as an open diff when I ran it addy a friends dealership.

I installed a Aussie locker about 2 years ago. Been debating whether or not to out one up front.