The problem I am having is when I hit for a quick stop. The whole jeep jumps to the right like some one just hit me and then straightens out. I know i have a problem with the the drivers side caliper as The pads are wearing terrible. (I am going to look at them later today and see if the slider is the cause)
The other problem is the pedal seems to be harder than it used to be, and when the system gets hot the brakes have a noticable decrease in power.

Because of all this I did suspect low brake fluid and it was a little low but it is also very very dark, to the point that I cannot see through it.

My question is, could my dirty fluid be a cause for my brake pedal acting strange and the decrease of power? and can I drain all the fluid from the system without taking all the calipers and booster apart. or could I just suck the fluid out of the resivor and put new in and replace it again when it gets dirty again.

Sorry I wrote so much, I just dont want to have confusion.

 

Its probably not fluid. Its probably the caliper seized. Since the opposite is wearing faster it could be stuck partially clamped. When you hammer thus brakes only one side is able to fully clamp, causing a pull to the working side.

 

Thats what I thought but my question was could the fluid cause the pedal to be stiffer, and could it cause the brakes to loose power when hot?

 

I suppose t
if there was water and such, but it shouldn't effect enough to make a huge difference.

 

fluid should be ok, change the calipers in pairs, if ya want to change the fluid, i suggest taking it to a shop, or a buddy mechanic, we use a "reverse bleed kit" when ever we do it, it pushes fresh fluid into the res. and pushes all the old crp out...we usually clean out the res and then again when the air bubbles stop, then top it with fresh fluid....hope that makes sense...i'm bad at explaining things...lol

 

doing brake work is like buying shoes you never buy one shoe what ever you do to one side do to the other,also if its in the budget new hoses would be a plus they breakdown on the inside causing pressure probs also

 

I was not planning on replacing the caliper at all. my dad owns a tire repair place and we do auto work there to, so I know how to work on cars. I actually am going to school for auto repair this fall. I'm pretty sure that it is just the slide pins have corrosion on them causing the one side to "react" slower which would cause it to pull to one side more than the other under harder braking. and not to worry I understood exactly what you said about the bleeder.

I will have an answer later (I hope) after I take it to our shop to check it out.

 

i typically take the slides wire brush them, and use high temp grease for them....I'v tried the standard brake grease and usually never have great luck....I use to work for a company that had a fleet of chevy express vans and i was changing breaks on at least one of them every month, and the brake grease would gum up when the hi-temp wouldnt...each van was changed about every 10k miles, and imo that grease should last longer than that.....so....I'm not telling ya what to use or how to do it, just my personal experience and preference

 

I ordered this grease from work its for "marine application" Has a 550F melt point and resists water.It also has some Moly or something in there.The stuff works great but was expensive . Everytime I do my brakes the grease or alot of it is still there. Before you would never know that anything at all was put on.

 

I've used similar products, but have found that std hi-temp, or std marine grease all work about the same....to me its not worth the extra money, unless its a special application and calls for it