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NSS question

Old Feb 23, 2010 | 05:04 PM
  #1  
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Year: 2001&1992
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Default NSS question

can anyone tell me if the 93 NSS 4.0 V6 the same as 99 4.0 NSS
BOTH AWD
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 05:34 PM
  #2  
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Year: 1994
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you shouldnt need to swap the NSS unless its case is broken. (like mine damn po) take it off carefully dissasemble it, clean it up, re-assemble. I think its the same if you dont feel like cleaning it but taking it off the tranny is the worst part, trust me you dont want to do it twice. do a search there's more detailed instructions on removal/cleaning here somewhere.
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 05:38 PM
  #3  
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yea i got it out already its not cleanable! at all ... tons of rust and all the screw's are stripped
and there were 2 diff. tranny's there's the ASIAN 1 tranny and some came with chrysler tranny's and i just wanted to know if they were all the same
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 05:44 PM
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From: smyrna,de
Year: 1997
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if ure looking at the one on ebay its the right one for 40 something right?
i believe the guy made a typo as the 4.0 only came as a straight. a 4.0 v6 is a ford.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEUTR...Q5fAccessories

check the end plug and then check advanced auto parts online for a comparison

Last edited by djritter1122; Feb 23, 2010 at 05:47 PM. Reason: web site info
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 07:24 PM
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The XJ with the GM V6 was 1984-1986, and used the "Baby 904" transmission as a "special case" (three-speed Chrysler slushbox with a GM "Metric" bellhousing pattern.)

1987-2001, the XJ didn't use a V6 - it was the AMC 242ci I6. And if it had an auto behind it, it was the Aisin-Warner AW4 four-speed electronically-shifted auto.

The NSS was functionally identical on all of the AW4s, but the electrical connection did change, as did (perhaps) the pinout. I can't get to my FSM collection at the moment, but if you look at the two wiring diagrams, you can see if the pinouts are identical. Then, compare pictures of the two connectors - if they look the same, they probably are.

Don't suppose I could get that old unit from you, could I? I'm gathering parts for a number of projects, and I've got time and resources you probably don't have...
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 08:17 PM
  #6  
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yea but it wasnt a 4.0 that was a 2.8 liter gm engine
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 08:50 PM
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Smile NSS replacement

Originally Posted by nyaristo
can anyone tell me if the 93 NSS 4.0 V6 the same as 99 4.0 NSS
BOTH AWD
Sorry cant answer question, but I came across this site that has really reasonable NSS
http://www.racepages.com/products/de...=true&x=37&y=6
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 10:07 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by djritter1122
yea but it wasnt a 4.0 that was a 2.8 liter gm engine
Reread - I did differentiate that it was a "GM V6" and an "AMC I6" - I just didn't mention the displacement.

Thost first-gen GM V6-60s sucked. I had two cars in succession with sequential V6-60s - a 1985 Cavalier with the 2.8L, and a 1991 Corsica with the 3.1L. I never could fix that damned oil leak in the 2.8L (it leaked at the rear valve cover; where the intake manifold, cylinder head, and valve cover all come together) no matter how or what I tried - and the damned thing was a dog. I drove an identical vehicle with the 4-151, and I'd have swapped them even up plus $200 if the guy was willing.

The Corsica? 600# more kerb weight, same transaxle, and the Corsica could haul *****. Frankly, given performance of the Cavalier, I'm amazed I got any trade-in value at all (the best thing you can do with the V6-173 is pour it full of ready-mix, hang 500' of chain off of it, and give it to your buddy with a boat...) but that V6-181 really impressed me.

I understand the 3.4L worked even better. I will recommend the 3.1L or 3.4L be swapped in place over the 2.8L V6 hands down. Moreover, bring the THM700R4 and NP231C transfer case you can usually find behind the thing, you'll get a better transmission (over the "Baby 904") and an overdrive gear as well - in addition to a transfer case upgrade (the NP231C has a wider chain than the NP231J...)

And, it's an easier swap than the 6-242 and AW4!
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 10:09 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by ztech1
Sorry cant answer question, but I came across this site that has really reasonable NSS
http://www.racepages.com/products/de...=true&x=37&y=6

one on left is for a auto one on right is for a manual
also not bad prices.
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Old Feb 24, 2010 | 11:18 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by 5-90
Reread - I did differentiate that it was a "GM V6" and an "AMC I6" - I just didn't mention the displacement.

Thost first-gen GM V6-60s sucked. I had two cars in succession with sequential V6-60s - a 1985 Cavalier with the 2.8L, and a 1991 Corsica with the 3.1L. I never could fix that damned oil leak in the 2.8L (it leaked at the rear valve cover; where the intake manifold, cylinder head, and valve cover all come together) no matter how or what I tried - and the damned thing was a dog. I drove an identical vehicle with the 4-151, and I'd have swapped them even up plus $200 if the guy was willing.

The Corsica? 600# more kerb weight, same transaxle, and the Corsica could haul *****. Frankly, given performance of the Cavalier, I'm amazed I got any trade-in value at all (the best thing you can do with the V6-173 is pour it full of ready-mix, hang 500' of chain off of it, and give it to your buddy with a boat...) but that V6-181 really impressed me.

I understand the 3.4L worked even better. I will recommend the 3.1L or 3.4L be swapped in place over the 2.8L V6 hands down. Moreover, bring the THM700R4 and NP231C transfer case you can usually find behind the thing, you'll get a better transmission (over the "Baby 904") and an overdrive gear as well - in addition to a transfer case upgrade (the NP231C has a wider chain than the NP231J...)

And, it's an easier swap than the 6-242 and AW4!
Thanks this was a great response and thanks for clearing that up so it will work if that's what your saying?
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 12:04 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by nyaristo
Thanks this was a great response and thanks for clearing that up so it will work if that's what your saying?
I'm saying it should. Verify that the connector is the same, and that the terminal functions ("pinouts") are the same. They should be, but Thou Shalt Never Assume, for to "Assume" is to Make an A$$ of U and Me.
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 07:22 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by 5-90
I'm saying it should. Verify that the connector is the same, and that the terminal functions ("pinouts") are the same. They should be, but Thou Shalt Never Assume, for to "Assume" is to Make an A$$ of U and Me.
Thou shall not assumed!!! Cuz its a completely diff. Connector! But the switch itself is the same just not the harness plug. ArGgggggggg I'm so mad at myself
Can someone verify that the pin-outs are the same aswell as the wires?
Please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 11:46 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by nyaristo
Thou shall not assumed!!! Cuz its a completely diff. Connector! But the switch itself is the same just not the harness plug. ArGgggggggg I'm so mad at myself
Can someone verify that the pin-outs are the same aswell as the wires?
Please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
And now you know exactly why I say that...

Couple ways to go about it, depending on equipment available and your comfort level in working with electronics:

1) Look for the NSS with the proper connector (could take a while.)
2) Clip the connector off of the new unit and off of the old unit (leave about a 6" tail off of the connector either way.) Match wires and use butt connectors to make connexions in the proper order.
3) Find contact removal tools for the two connector styles, shuffle properly, reterminate as required, and convert the one connector to the other.

Either way, I'd still like to talk to you (later) about getting the parts you don't use...
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Old Feb 27, 2010 | 10:59 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by 5-90
And now you know exactly why I say that...

Couple ways to go about it, depending on equipment available and your comfort level in working with electronics:

1) Look for the NSS with the proper connector (could take a while.)
2) Clip the connector off of the new unit and off of the old unit (leave about a 6" tail off of the connector either way.) Match wires and use butt connectors to make connexions in the proper order.
3) Find contact removal tools for the two connector styles, shuffle properly, reterminate as required, and convert the one connector to the other.

Either way, I'd still like to talk to you (later) about getting the parts you don't use...
im not afraid of wires!!! just want to know before i butcher it up
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