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NSS Prep Chemistry from a Newbie

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Old 04-29-2019, 10:00 PM
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Location: Idaho
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L
Default NSS Prep Chemistry from a Newbie

NSS Prep Tips from a Newbie

Hello All – new to the Jeep world – just purchased a 98 stock XJ with about 210K on the clock. Rust free, in great shape except for the light front passenger ding (I think the frame is straight, just fender and front panel damage). Came with the usual Check Engine issue/codes suggesting the Neutral Safety Switch was due for a rebuild – no reverse lights, spotty starting in Park, funky transmission behavior.

Went to the local Pick a Part lots to look for a backup/learner part, and found out just how bloody hard it can be to remove one of these gizmos. And there aren’t many 97-01 XJs in those lots (no more than one in each of four yards). Broke the only one I managed to get out, but did figure out some angles for leverage. Then, I went in to the removal of the unit on my new rig with a good bit of paranoia and dread. So much that I took a layered approach to the prep (try this at home):

1. Started with a couple rounds of standard degreaser over the entire NSS unit and vicinity (aiming up a bit) and let it soak in for about 20 minutes. About a quarter of a can.

2. For the next round, grabbed a bottle of Goo Gone (a citrus-based solvent) and went for a couple more rounds of a fine spray over the same area. Big old boof on the scent, so I let it clear for another 20 minutes or so (maybe not such a good idea if you’re indoors).

3. Crawled under and scraped as much of the grease/dirt/gunk off as I could. Soft and gooey by this point. Then, I removed te big nut on the unit to expose the threads.

4. Took a can of Simple Green (the only aerosol can of it I’ve ever seen, a garage sale find – the regular spray form will serve just as well) and soaked it well. Aimed for those threads, and tried to get as much onto that metal shaft the unit sits on. Use a lot.

5. Replaced the lock washer and nut, very loosely, and let it sit overnight. Took a few buckets of water to the driveway to dilute and rinse away the big dark puddle of chemicals.

6. Next day, removed the lock washer and nut, and started with a couple long sprays of penetrating oil on those threads. Let it soak for about a half hour.

7. Removed the 12mm mounting bolt, and give the unit a little jiggle back and forth. And … the unit came off with a little pull with bare hands. No tools, no prying or swearing, it just slid right off. Lucky – maybe? Weather helped some too – warm on day one, cold overnight and cool the next day.

Rebuilt the unit following the instructions posted on this site, and scoured the side of the transmission housing where it mounts up – what I could reach – and reinstalled. Went for the middle of the range, and everything worked. Reverse lights on, starts in Park and Neutral, and the Check Engine light went out after the third start.

May be a little excessive, but it does favor the less toxic chemicals, and saved me from buying the new part (the TCO on this unit is pretty damn good so far, but tires might kill my budget). Hope it helps save a few knuckles and brings the job in reach.

Big thanks to all who have posted such great content on this site. I used to hang on the Rennlist forum back when I had my old Porsche 928, and it had a similar feel. Great community around cool vehicles. Look forward to reading the new posts.

Cheers,

Steve
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