My jeep keeps running super hot. It gets up to temp good heat then starts to almost overheat. Scan tool says 190 coolant temp so not overheating but damn near. But then the thermos will open and it goes back to 140ish for a few minutes. Haven't drove it since it started for fear of bad head gasket. Thought it was air trapped initially, but every time I've tried to burp it stone cold after sitting for a day or two and after it heats up it just starts ejecting the coolant.

I could be wrong but I think it's the head gasket has a small split maybe and it's allowing pressure to build up in the cooling system without mixing the oil and coolant. As of the last time I started it, the oil was normal colored. Not milky, and I had normal oil pressure.

I don't have the time nor mechanical expertise, so I'm gonna pay my friend to replace the head gasket. The problem is getting it over there. He lives about 10 minutes away. 10-15 miles, but local towing company is having a hard time with it people winter and the people here in Ohio aren't the best drivers. Would it be safe to risk driving it over there? Like I said before, it doesn't overheat but gets damn near close. But I also don't want to risk completely blowing the head gasket and locking my engine up with milkshake oil.

 

If it's only getting to 190° you have nothing to worry about other than it runs cooler than most other xjs. If you are constantly seeing 230°, then I would worry. Also, if your temp swings are really that big, you should probably replace the thermostat. 190° should be about to coolest you see it once warmed up.

How are you trying to bleed it anyways?

 

Not sure if it's 190. That's what I thought I remembered it. Being. It's been a few days since I looked at it. It gets up to just before the red. Then goes back to just before the middle. Which is where it would usually sit even on the hottest most humid days and would go just over the middle notch before the thermostat opened.
​​​​​​Bleeding it by starting cold after letting rest for at least a day each time. Starting engine with filler neck cap off, slowly fill with coolant. But the buddies never stop which leads me to believe pressure is getting into the cooling system because once it heats up, about 2/3 of the coolant shoots out.

 

It would be much cheaper to pay for a test to detect the presence of CO2 in your coolant, or coolant in the oil

Google it, you can send a sample of oil to a lab, or have a competent mechanic check the coolant

190F is not hot, if you have a factory electric fan, it doesnt even come on till 205F...does it come on/work ?

 

Sounds like a ****ty thermostat. MOPAR only!!!!

 

^^ this and make sure you install it correctly. Look for the stamped arrow indicator for up position....also make sure it stays seated correctly when you put the T-stat housing back on.
While you're in there it's so cheap...if you havent done one recently... I'd just replace the T-stat housing and the water pump while youre at it. Super easy DIY, pretty cheap for a decent one, and vital to your engine. For this specifically, I personally don't consider that as loading the parts cannon. The parts are vital, you're right there anyways...and if you think you're dealing with an over heating issue... best to be safe than sorry.

 

190 is not over heating. Sorry!
Mine runs 185 - 210 . That is right around center line. The t-stat sells 180-185 , 195, etc.
If you were pegged at the red and spitting fluid that would be overheating.
Flush, fill, t-stat and drive.

 

Correct. Why does your username bring back teenage memories?

 

Like I said I didn't remember the exact temp it was at as I hadvnt drove it in two months and haven't even been in it in a week and a half. So gasket, thermo stat, housing, and water pump. What about the rad hoses or anything else I should go ahead and replace

 

That’s because the thermostat has opened and the water pump is pushing water/air through the block into the top radiator hose. Get a funnel made for burping that can handle the rush of water until the air comes out.

I wouldn’t replace any cooling system parts until I figured out if the head gasket is blown or head is cracked.

If it’s cracked or blown then I’d replace the entire cooling system when the head is repaired to include belts, plugs.