Sorry, not really related to the OP. But I'm pretty sure this works on the 96's as well, right? I know my 96 was OBDI...

 

I would check your spark plug wiring

I had a similar problem before, took me a good day to figure it out... Replaced or tested damn near everything. Issue turned out to be when I replaced the dist & rotor I followed the firing diagram in my hanes manual and it was wrong... I had the wrong firing order on the dist cap, had fuel, spark, and crank but no start...

 

If everything checks out with your plug wires it might be time for a compression test.

Even if you have spark and fuel at the right time you still need compression to fire.

 

well now i've replaced everything including spark plug wires rotor and cap now waiting for someone else to come home so I can test the spark again. but it's looking bad for the engine because i've replaced all of the spark and fuel parts besides rail and injectors. so I don't know and I can't take it anywhere to get it scanned on a computer because it wont start. haha

 

did you do the code test as stated above? have you tried gas or starting fluid in the intake as asked?

your skipping some things here and have probably wasted alot of money, although new parts are always nice.

x2 on the compression test if there is spark and no start with gas in the intake. rent a compression tester, its free at autozone


also you said this recently happened? was theyre any symptoms before this? any signs or bad things happen? a woman drove it 20 miles with a blown coolant hose? that would do it lol.....

 

hahah no blown coolant hoses and thankfully no women driving it either. haha but Another update I did another spark test after the wires cap and rotor still producing a white spark. Does the ignition coil have to bolted in? does that ground it? I mean just to test it not to drive around with it obviously. also when attempting to start it if I hit the gas peddle it attempts to start but doesn't keep running. I don't have any starting fluid to test that out will be looking into buying some though.

 

1. What's not related? The code retrieval procedure I listed is for all OBDI 1991-1995 and the OP has a 1994......That procedure will work and should be performed as it takes less than a minute.

2. You really need to test your coil as a white spark is a weak spark. You can test a coil for both primary and secondary resistances with a meter and a manual. You need to rule this IN or OUT.

 

Just throwing this out there...

When you said "also when attempting to start it if I hit the gas peddle it attempts to start but doesn't keep running."

How long are you holding the gas peddle down for? Try holding it down to the floor and giving it some time. I had a buddies 4.0 act funny before with starting. He had to hold the gas peddle down and keep cranking. He held it down long enough and it started, once it was running he kept his foot on the gas to keep the rpms from dieing down and stalling out. After it was running for a few minutes, it held the proper idle rpm and ran fine.

Best of Luck.

 

Well the jeep finally started and it's not running smoothly by any means. And we're trying to figure out why the engine is running really ****ty ups and downs in idle and just doesn't sound like it's running smooth not misfiring but running like a vacuum line is leaking or not attached or something similar to that.

 

Not trying to hijack the OPs thread but I'm about to buy a 95 XJ Sport & the guy says its the NSS is why it won't start. After reading this post I've asked him a few more questions & he is saying that he started to run a push button start to bypass the NSS & got it to crank. Would running the push button bypass the NSS?

 

i had a similar issue on my buddys jeep, found out the coolant temp sensor was reading -40 at all times and immediatly flooding the engine. also the MAP and the O2 have a say in air fuel mixture

 

well here's a video that might help someone diagnose the problem please hep if possible I'm sure it's a sensor problem but with no scan tool It's hard to diagnose.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rBvvs...ature=youtu.be

Thank you in advance to anyone who can provide any help.

 

Don't know quite what to say Jeepman, maybe I'm not getting something. You can try this. I hear sometime in 97 it no longer works. It's where I would start, before testing sensors. (except maybe checking for vacuum leaks) But I would need to get out of the seat for that!




1984-1990 w/AMC engine are pre-OBD.

1984-1986 w/GM V6-173 are OBD-I (GM control setup.)

1991-1995 are OBD-I (Chrysler)

1996-2001 are OBD-II (Chrysler)

The "Key Tricks"
Older (OBDI) models - Start with the ignition off. Within five seconds, switch the key on, off, on, off, on. ("On" is NOT "Start" and "Off" is NOT "Lock"). The "check engine" light will flash. Count the flashes. Each code is a two digit code, so a (for example) 23 would be FLASH FLASH (pause) FLASH FLASH FLASH (long pause). It will never flash more than 9 times, so watch for those pauses!

Newer (OBDII) models - Put the key into the ignition, push down the odometer reset button, then turn the key to RUN with your finger on the button - and then release the button. The odometer will go through 1111111 through 999999, then display the car's serial number. It will then show the error codes (it might show them starting with P). If this method does not work, try the OBDI method.

 

The "Key Tricks"
Older (OBDI) models - Start with the ignition off. Within five seconds, switch the key on, off, on, off, on. ("On" is NOT "Start" and "Off" is NOT "Lock"). The "check engine" light will flash. Count the flashes. Each code is a two digit code, so a (for example) 23 would be FLASH FLASH (pause) FLASH FLASH FLASH (long pause). It will never flash more than 9 times, so watch for those pauses!

Newer (OBDII) models - Put the key into the ignition, push down the odometer reset button, then turn the key to RUN with your finger on the button - and then release the button. The odometer will go through 1111111 through 999999, then display the car's serial number. It will then show the error codes (it might show them starting with P). If this method does not work, try the OBDI method.[/QUOTE]

Would this work if my Check Engine light is already on? After going through 1111111 to 9999999 i get my mileage again not a code. I also tried it with the trip meter set to 000.0 but just get that back as well
I have a 98 xj 4.0 4x4

 

For a 1998, the only way to retrieve codes is with a code reader or a scan tool. The odometer technique stopped working somewhere mid-1997.

Some parts stores like Autozone will read the codes for you for free.