OK.
I can arc across the posts on the starter solenoid with a screwdriver and it starts just fine. That is, however, a tad bit undignified (except maybe in Walmart parking lot )

The 10amp fuse in the kickpanel is fine.....so is the large fuse in the relay box. I temporarily swapped out the radiator fan relay with the starter relay and no difference there, so I assume it's not the relay.

Removed the NSS last night and rebuilt it. It was gummed up and nasty inside but cleaned up good. Put it all back together...used contact cleaner on connections....put it back on this morning and still nothing.

I read that to check my ignition switch, I should turn the switch to on....turn on the blower fan...and then engage the switch to "start" position. I did that and, yes, the blower quits when "start" is engaged.

What am I missing here?

Thanks for any insight.

 

Oh yeah, I cleaned the battery terminals and the two posts on the solenoid.

 

{ crickets }

 

Was it something I said?

OK...it's been 24+ hrs, lemme try again.

- I can jump across the solenoid and it starts.
- If I turn on the blower fan with the key on....turn the key to "start"...the blower fan goes off as it should.
-I cleaned and re-installed the NSS....cleaned and re-checked connections.

What should I try next?

Thanks for any input.

 

No You are cool Bruce. We are just slow, ( ann' mycase maybe stupid) on weekends.

So Exactly what happens when you turn the key to start..any click? Any other thing of note?

 

My 90 may, or may not be 'roughly" the same. The relay has two power feeds. One for the solonoid is on a fuseable link. Then the power to the solonoid coil comes from the switch, and uses the Nss for ground. Savy?

I would think you might want to find that relay spot that is energized then you turn the key to start, and see that it's getten juiced. Ign switch problems do come up.

Finding that relay, and checking what's up in it's sockets could be key.

I think the lone crossways sends power to the other "top" (of the parallel two), when the key energizes one of the two "vertical" hands, and the NSS grounds the other.

Choppy as that comes off, I do believe it's correct.

 

Ok, from the front with the hood open your "power distribution center", is back on the left. Looks like it's the rear left relay, (looking back),,(We normally put front,front, and right on the right, making an exception here)

They have the constant power to #10, fired to #14 to energize the solonoid. 13 and 11 would be the relay coil. One energized by the key, the other grounded by the NSS.

Boy . PLEEZ, somebody jump in if I'm out to lunch here.

 

Away from my PC right now and can't find the circuit diagram, but on my 1999 the starting circuit has two fuses, two relays, the solenoid, starter, and two switches. Power flow is like this:

1. Input to igition switch (probably fused elsewhere)
2. Clutch interlock or NSS
3. "control" side on relay in the junction block in the cab. "load" side fused in the JB as well
4. "control" side on relay in PDC. "load" side fused in PDC
5. "control" side in solenoid. "load" side direct from battery
6. Starter
7. Engine block ground

First check all relays and fuses mentioned above. If that fails, see if you have 12VDC on the tiny wire going into the solenoid when the key's in start.

 

Oh fine! (I pm'd him cause I thought his was closer than mine" ) Sheez, so 98 is the "cutoff".

 

Thanks guys.
That gives me a place to start this morning.


When I turn the key to "start"...there is a barely audible click in the area behind the glovebox, if that means anything.

 

Yup that's the relay I mentioned in #3

 

Here's some circit diagrams of the '97 starter circuit that may be helpful.

Note that in the starting system diagram there is a jumper that goes from fuse F10 in the PDC to connector C1 in the JB. THat is the power feed to the Horn Relay Output, which may be the click you hear when you turn your key to start.

If you want to check the relay control coil power input from fuse F19 in the JB refer to the starter relay pin socket diagram below. Here is a guide to the pin sockets shown in the starting system diagram to the starter relay pin socket diagram below.

Diagram Pin Socket/Relay Pin Socket dagram

D13/86
D11/85
D10/30
D14/87

Remove the relay and using a voltmeter touch pin socket 86 in the relay female pin socket with the meter (+) probe and the (-) probe to battery ground. Turn ignition switch to start and you should read battery voltage. If you don't get voltage fuse F19 in the JB may be blown. If you get voltage the ground circuit through pin socket 85 may be open. The starter relay is grounded at G106 on the left inner fender (see photo).

When the Transmission Range Switch (in the NSS) provides a ground to the relay pin socket 85, it also provides a ground to the PCM Transmission Range Sense Switch (Park/Neutral Position Switch Sense).

You could try checking for continuity of this ground circuit using an ohmmeter. Disconnect the battery negative post connector before beginning. Touch relay pin cavity 85 with the meter (+) probe and the (-) probe to the right inner fender. You should see continuity.

You've jumped pin 30 to 87 and the starter turns, so you know this circuit is okay.
















Ground G106, on left inner fender by PCM:



Starter Relay Pin Sockets: