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No power to the wheels, engine is revving fine.

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Old 07-06-2009, 02:54 PM
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Default No power to the wheels, engine is revving fine.

I have got this IDIOTIC problem, which I think is somewhat related to the transmission solenoids or maybe not.. but, here it goes:

Start the car up in the morning, it runs fine for a few kilometers. Then there is no power (almost) to the wheels, not even in reverse or 1-2. Shut it off, start it up again after a few seconds, it works fine! Now, I need to know what should I check first, and also a detailed guide as to howto check the TPS? And when there is no power to the wheels, and the engine is revving fine, I can also hear some noise from the transmission when in neutral sort of a 'distortion' kinda noise. It goes away once the engine has been re-started. but it comes back soon when there is no thrust.
Old 07-06-2009, 03:03 PM
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have you checked the fluid level yet
Old 07-06-2009, 03:36 PM
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Fluid level is fine, how do I know if the oil is good or needs to be changed?
Old 07-06-2009, 03:43 PM
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sounds like a clogged transmission oil filter.
Old 07-06-2009, 03:50 PM
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hmm.. can you explain a bit more? :$
Old 07-06-2009, 04:03 PM
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There is a filter inside the transmission pan that works the same way an oil filter does. It is there to prevent debris from circulating through the trans and causing damage to some of the more fragile components. If the fluid is old and dirty, the filter can become clogged and will restrict the flow of the fluid. With the fluid restricted the trans cannot operate or shift properly and will cause more severe damage if neglected. The fluid should be red in color when it is new and will become darker with time. If your fluid is a dark brown or almost black in color, then it is definately time for a filter and fluid change.
Old 07-06-2009, 04:23 PM
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I have the same issue every morning almost. Just changed the filter in the tranny pan and I have been changing the fluid with mopar fluid. After the second 4 quarts are in the trans is shifting better but I still have to pull over and put her into park and then back into drive. Happens from either the 1-2 shift but mostly from the 2-3 shift. After putting her into park and then back into drive she is fine all day..

207 on the odometer but i plan to get at least 250 - 275 out of this trans before rebuild.

Remember that just emptying out the pan doesnt change all of the fluid. If you were to evacuate all of it it would be about 18 quarts..
Old 07-06-2009, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by winston427
There is a filter inside the transmission pan that works the same way an oil filter does. It is there to prevent debris from circulating through the trans and causing damage to some of the more fragile components. If the fluid is old and dirty, the filter can become clogged and will restrict the flow of the fluid. With the fluid restricted the trans cannot operate or shift properly and will cause more severe damage if neglected. The fluid should be red in color when it is new and will become darker with time. If your fluid is a dark brown or almost black in color, then it is definately time for a filter and fluid change.
Thankyou Winston427, couldn't have explained that better.
But, when the fluid gets darker it means that the operating temperature is too high and it is starting to burn. A normal wear course would just decolorate it. I have never changed the fluid in my transmission since i have bought it 6 years ago, and the color turned slightly yellow almost transparent.
Old 07-07-2009, 02:50 AM
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Is it recommended to drain all of the Tranny oil? And how do we do that?
Old 07-07-2009, 02:58 AM
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Originally Posted by bishop letov

Remember that just emptying out the pan doesnt change all of the fluid. If you were to evacuate all of it it would be about 18 quarts..
RECOMMENDED FLUID AND CAPACITY
Recommended and preferred fluid for the AW-4
transmission is Mopar Dexron IIE/Mercon.
Mopar Dexron II can be used but only in emergency
situations where Mercon fluid is not available.
Approximate refill capacity for the AW-4 is 8.0 liters
(16.9 pints or 8.45 quarts).
Old 07-07-2009, 06:23 AM
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That might be a job you take to a local shop. I had my tranny flushed at 85,000 and it was 70 bones. Not challenging you wrenching skills, it's just a lot of waste oil to trasport/dispose of.
Old 07-07-2009, 08:31 AM
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Is there any guide or some one can explain what is needed to unbolt etc etc to drain all of the fluid? And is Dexron III ATF fine for the AW-4 transmission?
Old 07-07-2009, 08:37 AM
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And oh, one more thing, the trans oil filter can be cleaned or has to be replaced? If it has to be replaced, I would need a 'good luck' finding one here.
Old 07-07-2009, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by syncview
And oh, one more thing, the trans oil filter can be cleaned or has to be replaced? If it has to be replaced, I would need a 'good luck' finding one here.
The AW4 transmission oil screen is a non serviceable unit in theory. Normally it is necessary to replace it.
What we do in the shop (we overhaul ATs) when a screen is difficult to find, is change the filtering element.
This is a quite simple procedure, the filtering element is inserted in the rectangular box of the screen bolted with three bolts under the valve body.
The box is composed of two halves where the edge of the upper half has been bent over the lower.
With a screwdriver gently bend the edge open until you can separate the pieces and take out the filter.
We buy this kind of thin mat filter from the autopart shop (white when new), but it is exactly the same as the filter used in the kitchen hoods with aspirator.
They sell these in every household shop.
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Old 07-07-2009, 10:28 AM
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And how do we drain the old oil? All of it?


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