Rob98cherokee

hey guys

its snowing and my 00 cherokee has No blower motor. and im

Fuse, was blown... replaced. Nothing.
No power at resistor pack.
pulled dash apart, No power at the switch panel. the straight connector in their. (yes, keys on) but it gets power on the 2nd up small terminal when you turn the markers on.

some how broken wire between fuse panel and switch plug? W/0 blowing the new fuse... anyone have a wiring diagram? ill run a new dam wire if i have to, windshield wont defrost it's self. and oh. the cold fronts moving in for the - degree weather.

thanks
-Robert

CCKen

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/98-...-issue-158013/

Rob98cherokee

Still in need of some more help.. i cant seem to figure where all the powers comming from.
relays good, fuses are good, (checked every single fuse) grounds are good, the HVAC unit connector big green connector has 3 powers #2&3&6, no power at the resistor

still no power @ the switch 7 pin. only 1 power with the headlights on. Mode door actuator is still operational.

it's cold out and im working on it after working all day so my patents is a little short with this jeep...

thanks for any help you can offer!

CCKen

Which fuse was blown? Where was it located?

Which fuses did you check?

How do you know the relay is good?

Power at pin 7 of the control panel connector with the headlights on is good. That's power to the panel lights. It has nothing to do with operation of the blower.

See attached diagram.

Reconnect all removed connectors at this time.

Note that there are two fuses in the circuit, Fuse 25 in the Junction block that is powered when the ignition switch is in the RUN position and fuse 6 in the PDC that is powered off the battery bus (hot all the time).

To check the entire blower circuit for continuity, place the control panel mode selector to a Heat setting (#7 or #8 on the diagram), fan selector to High (#4 on the diagram), detach the blower connector, check for battery voltage between pin sockets A and B of the blower motor harness connector with the ignition switch in RUN. You should read battery voltage. This checks the entire circuit except the resistor block and the blower motor.

To check the resistor block, again read between pin sockets A and B of the blower motor harness connector with the ignition switch in RUN, and with the fan switch in position 3, then 2, then 1. At each selection you should see a voltage drop as the resistors are added in series. If any resistor is open the resistor circuit is open and the resistor block is defective.

If the entire control circuit and the resistor block check good, it may be the blower is defective.

If the control circuit does not checkout further troubleshooting will be required. Check these few steps and get back with your results.

Ubwankinoby

Hey, there! I'm also struggling with the same issue - 96' Jeep Grand Cherokee Lerado 4X4 5.2.

I've gone through all the diagnostic steps you've shared above and am at my wit's end.

The blower motor, resistor, and control panel have all been replaced. All fuses are new.

No power to the blower motor, resistor, or control panel. Everything was thoroughly checked with a multimeter.

The fuse block under the hood is getting power, and the power side of the fuse connection is also getting power.

My best guess is it's something between the fuse block and the wire harness, but I can't trace the wire from the fuse block to the harness.

Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated!

Jim Malcolm

On a 96, the fuse block is built into the harness, so no connector...

I'd add a relay with fused battery power, trigger it using a fuse tap and a working ignition hot circuit, and run new wiring directly to the Heat Mode switch. Power goes to that first, then the speed switch...

It's common to then insert relays between the speed switch and the motor, reducing the current in the circuit to an amp, preventing all the issues that normally arise with these...

awg

The only truly effective way is to use up to 4 relays (one for each speed) on a '96 or earlier

Otherwise all power goes through all switches, wiring, ignition key, etc etc...hopeless

There is several write ups, including one by me

An incandescent test light is better than a multimeter to diagnose this circuit, as it may flow 12V, but not 30A (cooked wires)

Get out the circuit diagram bro, 96 is same as 95,

I cant recall if the circuit is earthed to switch, they swapped systems for 97 onwards

At any rate, poke around for that 12V, it be somewhere

Get some jumper wires ready, so you can bypass, or run battery 12V

I have made them out of cu off 240V power cords, (you guys run 110AC ?), anyway, one wire can handle 15A, so 2 twisted togerger 30A, or you may have correct DC cable on hand.

30A DC wire gets a bit expensive for a cheaparse like me lol

lawsoncl

The forum for the Grand Cherokees is at https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f5/

I suggest starting a new thread instead of reviving an 11 year old thread.