(post #74 ^)

I notice you wrote orange with black stripe. My diagram says ORG T for the wire from the relay to the ECU. Maybe the wrong wire is routed to #85? That would explain it being hot and not grounding the relay a second with ign on.

If 85 is hot, I'd test it with the ECU unplugged. (and check the wiring)
85, ORG-T terminates at ECU pin A5

 

Note from DJ to DF
I think you missed understood the first part of my 133 post.
Batman cut the wires to the original Fuel Pump Relay socket and put female connectors on each of the four individual wires; which means that he can connect any wire to any terminal on the relay.

Also ORG-T stands for Orange with a tracer and the tracer color is Black.

 

Whoops. Accustomed to the other color being there. Thanks! Well, the 86 socket, (rearward on the Jeep), should be the one powered with ignition. Pretty sure he verified power there ign on.

I finally took the time to read through, to post #45 anyway. Looks like I jumped in and repeated a bunch of what you all already posted. No harm done I suppose but I didn't intend to seem rude! Looks like the pray is cornered in any case.

 

Note from DJ to DF
87 is closest to the fender and yes 86 is closest to the firewall it should be the one powered with ignition.

 

Orange with Tan ...Org w T

 

Problem solved yet ?

 

nope.... i have come to the realization it is an electrical problem.

It is going to take me some time but i am in the process of rewiring the jeep.... Connector to connector, majority wires i can do...

 

fuel pump burnt out when you removed the ballast resistor?

 

It's fine to run with out a ballast resistor. Guess they were added during 87 cuz of customer complaints of too much noise. I like mine in and working the pump a tad easier though. Also he installed a new pump.

 

Just rewire the fuel pump circuit separate from factory harness also serves as anti theft device. Put this to rest.

 

????????? rewire the fuel pump to a relay and have it directly from a power, is that what your saying freegdr?????

 

so an update.... to whomever is having this problem and can not find a solution....

I started out small or at least what i think might be easier start than others... I am replacing wire harnesses, i started with the harness on the driver side of the door going from the front to rear. Doing my measurements, and hopefully saving my connectors so i do not have to purchase any.

First problem i see i have. The front gray connector tabs on both sides are broken, not a big issue for me. Next is the kicker, i started to remove the wires from the connectors and all came out except Pink or Red ( could really faded out or not) with black trace which equals to the Fuel Pump wire for power to the pump. i know it is not a great picture but the terminal is melted onto plastic or vice versa

I will continue to repair the harness and once completed ill let you guys know if it was that giving me a problem

 

Yes same as adding high power fog/driving lights with fuse a relay and lighted toggle switch.

 

Get a new 10 pin wire connector both male and female parts . Dont need to be exactly like factory and splice them into harness. Nothing less than no 10 wire.

 

Note from DJ
Regarding this thread by you [Wires the same https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/wires-same-235166/ ] if that bad connector and wiring is from the kick panel cavity back towards the gas tank on your Jeep; the 94 harness might be the same except the fuel pump connector may be different shape and the wires may be a different color. You will need to take a look and decide.

If not NAPA Auto Parts have the GM Weather Pack Series OEM Terminal series parts but the 10 pin connector may be hard to find.
The male pin is https://www.napaonline.com/p/NW_725150
The female pin is https://www.napaonline.com/p/NW_725151