I did new tires and had an alignment done a couple months ago. Since then it has had a very slight pull to the right. I was thinking maybe it was just the crown of the road (since I am always in the slow lane) and did not think much of it. Now I am checking on my tires and the left tire still has the nipples at the very outside edge while my right tire, the outside edge is wearing. My ***** are no longer sharp. That would make sense if I am always correcting to the left, the outside right tire would show wear.

Anyway, I no longer trust this alignment shop (2nd vehicle they are off on). Is there a minor adjustment I could do myself that would get rid of a pull to the right. As I said, it is very slight but it is there.

Thanks!

 

Here is the alignment sheet they gave me after the alignment.

 

Alignment sheet looks reasonable and within spec. Assuming he got the measuring equipment mounted correctly. Looks like he only gave the drag link adjuster maybe 1/2 turn. Spec is 0-0.45 degrees on the toe-in, but I find the Cherokees track better with a touch more toe, closer to the 1-degree you started with. Camber and the rear axle aren't adjustable, but all the shops like to charge you for a 4-wheel alignment anyway. Check that your tire pressures are all correct and the same. Another cause for a slight wander would be a brake dragging.

 

Thank you for the reply! Isn't the drag link what centers the steering wheel?? I thought that was all it did.

Yes, I check tire pressure religiously. Every tire is spot on. I did the brakes about 6 months ago. All new. No drag. Tire pressure and brakes were first things I checked.

Thanks again!

 

You will notice that the camber is different between right and left sides. This is a factory thing and does cause them to pull slightly to the right. You can correct if if you want with an offset upper ball joint, but not worth it in my opinion

 

Could the wear you see on the tires be from before the alignment and the very slight pull to the right is just the crown on the paved road? They put a crown on the roads for rain run off.

 

Understood on the crown of the road and that was what I was hoping to believe. HA! But there is certainly more wear on the passenger tire outside vs the driver outside. I am constantly making minute adjustment to the wheel to correct for a right hand pull.

Tires are brand new. I had tires installed, then same day, did the alignment next door. Literally, next door, so zero wear on the tires before alignment. Fresh tires, fresh alignment. I am worried my new tires are going to get chewed up if this alignment is off.

 

Thanks man! I have never heard that, seems backwards to me but I am fairly new to the XJ world. Maybe I have a Euro spec alignment. HA!

 

Na, they all do it. Sometimes when lifted you will see the coil on one side with a bow and the other straight

 

Check it yourself. XJ on flat surface, Steering wheel straight. Run string from trailer hitch (or therabouts) around rear tire through center of tire, then through center of front tire until it just touches either the front or rear surface of the front tire. Note which surface of tire hits first and how far away it is from the other surface. Repeat on other side. Measure the difference between the two. I set mine to zero cause I like the feel, but a tiny amount of toe-in (like <1/8") is "normal".

Got a 24" level? Then check camber. Check level of vehicle, then each front tire.

 

Thanks! I will check that out. And how is the toe adjusted? If I adjust toe, will it affect my steering wheel center?

I also have a 24" level but I thought camber could not be adjusted on these?

Thank you all for your help!

 

Turn the tie rod ends without changing the position of the steering wheel.

Of course it can! Either:

Aforementioned offset ball joints;
BF sledge; or
Replace a lot of other stuff.

Bottom line is see if it needs to be addressed, then figure out why and how. If this was a shoddy place and measurements are off maybe you just need new stock ball joint(s), and you can check that by seeing if there's excessive play.

 

You are correct. Camber is built in to the axle balljoint horns and can only be changed using offset balljoints. These balljoints are made in 1/4* increments and are marked with an arrow to show which direction the offset is. They have to be installed so the offset does what is needed. Camber adjustments require them to have the arrows facing parallel to the axle to either increase or decrease the angle. To change caster, they must face forward or rearward to change that function. I think the maximum offset you can get is 2* and are usually used to correct a bent axle housing. Cherokees aren't usually that fussy about having the alignment spot on since they are seldom used at extremely high speeds or for cornering. Pulling to one side or another can be caused by rear thrust angle, that is the rear axle being not square with the frame, or "dog tracking" as it's called. A broken spring center bolt can cause this.

If you can, drive "British style" on the opposite side of the road and see if it pulls left. That will show if it's road crown that's causing the problem. Because of the y-style steering linkage, you can't easily adjust toe-in without disturbing steering wheel centering, especially if it's lifted. My WJ on the other hand has a drag link that goes from the steering pitman arm to the right front wheel, then another tierod that joins the 2 front wheels together. This way you can adjust toe-in, then center the steering wheel. This is why some people swap to WJ knuckles because they have 2 steering connection points on the right front knuckle and removable caliper brackets for dual piston brakes.

 

Thank you for the in depth explanation Dave (as well as others)!

Do I just deal with this little pull or will adjusting toe cure it? I dont mind a little bit of pull but I just do not want to eat up these new tires. They have about 3k on them and I can tell the passenger outer is wearing quicker than the driver's side outers.