Yes, the CPS signal will vary with RPM.

And yes, the Renix must spin at better than 300 RPM before the ECU signals the injectors to fire.

 

Ok, might sound dumb and I apologize profusely for this if its not the issue........

have you ohmed out the plug wires?

for instance, say ohm out one you know is good (i.e. providing GOOD STRONG SPARK) then ohm one of the ones you are suspecting as being weak?

Even NEW ones sometimes have faults in them, I know mine did...

I did not see it at first when i put them on, but #1 wire (the new one)
was cracked and split everywhere on the insulation, only reason I found it cuz the jeep began to idle rather oddly (rough) with new wires. so I ohmed them out and sure enough even with the cracked and split # 1 wire it was reading intermittently higher than the rest (you know, jiggling it around with ohmmeter on it. ) that told me there is a defect in the manufacture and I was able to get/swap a new one no questions asked at parts store (course I had reciept, cuz i had just purchased 30 minutes prior to doing it.)

anyway best of luck sir, I know it is a trying experience!

cpnwrench

 

But it would start on fluid if it wasnt getting injector fire... So cant be it?

 

I havent checked them nope... Just got this meter so still learnin it... Sad i know... Aircraft mechanic... Wad a tech for nissan... Dads avionics and electrician and i still dont know how to use this thing lol... I may just swap them under warranty for kicks since i just got new ones for the other mj lol

 

I can't remember for sure. It may not get fire either. Does it have fire when cranking?

 

yes... pulled a plug and grounded it while turning it... had spark... didnt seem like a lot to me but its been awhile since ive done this... lol

 

Have you ever removed your coil from the ICM, squeezed the contacts together, cleaned them up real well, added dielectric grease and then bolted it back together?

It can;t hurt and may help. While you're at it, unplug the 3-wire connector from the ICM and spray it out with contact cleaner.

I'm still concerned that your slow cranking speed might be the root of the problem at this point. Have you done anything to try and improve that?

 

I swapped the entire coil and all from the other mj... Same... And yeah ive tried jumping the solenoid and jumping the battery... Still same speed... Maybe ill take the belt off... If slow start is the problem then it should start everytime with no belt...

 

Taking the belt off? Why? Has it occured to you the starter might be bad? Is it soaked in oil?

 

If u take the belt off it wont have any thing else to turn off the crank... Itll alway spin much faster... This isnt a fix but a test if the slower start is whats causing the no start... If it is then i can trouble shoot the slow start... And yes the starters covered in oil...

 

Well....your thinking, but I think your on the wrong track. Granted the belt does work, but nothing presents much drag at low speed. (unless something is very wrong), If you want to crank faster you will need to look elsewhere.

 

Yeah, like removing the starter, disassembling it, cleaning all the oil out of it.

 

Your guys should pull your belt off and try and start it... Bet it spins like hell... Just cause u havent heard of it doesnt mean it wont have a result... same reason ac compressors and steering pumps get removed on drag cars... Less strain on the motor = spins faster on start up = slow start gone = diagnoses if slow start is cause of no start...

 

Well if you insist..let us know. At < 300 RPM I don't see that business causing much resistance relative to the engine compression. You know a bad connection will get hot. Once I checked where my cable bolts on the solenoid and burnt my finger. It was oily and not so tight.

 

Don't get your hopes up. I'm with Flintstone on an oily starter and/or connection.