Still messing with the Renix comanche... itll start back up every day... just wont when its a little warm i guess...

shut it off yesterday and it wouldnt start back... not even with starting fluid...

started right up today... let it run and about 2min in it chugged a little and cut off... wont start back up... not even with starting fluid again...

tried swapping the coil off of my other comanche as ive known them to get warm and stop working... didnt help... unless the coils are case grounded cause i just hooked everything up to the other one instead of pulling the original one out...

any other ideas? anyone have CPS issues AFTER the engine started warming up a little? it was said to have over heated and cut off and it does knock a little... checked torque converter bolts and there tight... so ill worry about that later... (thought maybe if the were loose it would cause the knocking and maybe a CPS misread)...

 

is it possible if the positive and negative wires are bare of any rubber that the wires are loosing any kind of power to send the proper voltage to the sensors? they are shot out... ive also got it on jumper cables so i dont kill the battery so its got full power to that point...

 

dropped the tranny down... gonna pick up a CPS tomorrow to see if thatll do it i guess...

 

The CPS is probably fine. Generally, and this aint a law, when the CPS fails, it totally fails. It sounds like an issue of heat soak on some wires? How long in between when you can start it? Does it have to sit overnight, or like 2-3 hours so it's totally cold? Have you done a pressure test at fuel rail? Pulled the head off? What are other things done?

 

takes till next day... its not fuel related or it would run on starting fluid... ive read of peoples CPS dropping right out AND going in and out And if you google this issue i have most fall on the CPS... and they are a known problem so thats why im leaning towards it... i havent pulled the head because i havent found a reason too yet...

i dont think it runs enough to actually consider warm... it was just sitting at idle for a MAX of 2min... so im not sure if heat is gonna cause anything... i could have grabbed the exhaust pipe still i bet...

 

This heat shield was expanding when it warmed and grounding some injector wires. Not likely you're prob, but doesn't get any easier to check.

 

i see your burn marks it looks... yeah i checked all my injector wires just for the heck of it... but it wont run off starting fluid so its not a fuel related problem...

 

Check grounds especially the ones related to the ECU. Also the woven ground strap between the head and firewall. Check that you have a vacuum to the fuel regulator too.

You say it can't be fuel related but the ECU will not allow any spark without adequate fuel pressure on the rail. CPS may be the problem but it sounds kinda remote Travis.

Remember with Renix 3 things have to happen before any spark is allowed, 1) 300 RPM by the starter 2) fuel pressure on the fuel rail and 3) finally stator inside distributor must sense proper shaft speed.
HTH my friend if not I will give you $300 for either one of them.

 

well alright ill get started on checking these when i get off work! it does seem to turn over a bit slow to me... but its being jumped so thats all its got lol... maybe new battery cables would get more voltage to the starter... thanks and ill let ya know what i find...

 

Thinking on the way to the rideshare van... It wouldnt be battery cables as it starts the first time and once started runs off the alt so that wouldnt cause it to shut off without restarting...

How does the fuel rail sense the pressure? If the comp wont send spark to the distributor because of lack fuel pressure it would have to sense it from somewhere correct? Dont remember seeing one?

 

...Just thinking....nothing takes until the next day to cool off.

That braided ground on the back of the valve cover does so much work some add a second one. (I did). I guess from the dipstick tube bolt, to a bolt below the shock mount is "the rage" these days. I'm out of fashion with a wire from a small bolt on the AC compressor to the front there, radiator bracket I guess. It's just good and easy to rule that out. (it might crank without it since the battery grounds on the engine).

 

The battery ground looks as nad as thd positive lol... Both are almost all bare wire... Ill chexk this today as well...

As for cooling down i say all day but i get home and start it at say 430... Dies... then it wont start the rest the night... Get home from work 430 next day and starts... This is how it did yesterday anyway... We will see when i get home today... Lol

 

Unplug your CPS. Probe both terminals on the sensor side. Set your voltmeter to AC volts. Have someone crank over the motor while you read the meter. You need .5 AC volts consistently or you can have intermittent no starts and/or poor running. I've seen new sensors fail this test.

 

.............I would do that /\.............what curiser said..../\

I was not talking about the battery ground! The the engine to chassy ground that Blue Fox pointed out. That braided wire that goes from the back of the valve cover to the firewall. It's VERY important.

 

I gotta get a meter... Really should have got one years ago... Lol... Ill try tomorrow! Thanks