new pans welded in question about seam sealing underneath
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From: orrville ohio
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 822
Likes: 4
From: orrville ohio
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 822
Likes: 4
From: orrville ohio
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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From: Newmarket, Ontario
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L
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Joined: Feb 2011
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From: orrville ohio
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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From: Good 'ol WI
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
When you say urethane, it can be a two-part specialized product, or a single-tube product like you'd find at Lowes, etc.
The two-component (with an activator) as used for autobody and OEM seam sealing is a superior product. It hardens quickly, stays pliable for practically forever and has a certain density which makes it really 'tough'. The problem with it, is it's expensive for the DIY guy. The product costs 5x-7x more plus special aplicator tips
Single-tube urethane (100% Polyurethane) is a good home product, inexpensive ...not 'quite' as durable. Most don't take paint as well if that's important.
Seam Sealer - Not sure what you're looking at, if it's an acrylic product, it may harden and eventually crack. Most don't have the expansion/contraction holding properties as a good polyurethane. OTOH, they can be tough and hard. Inexpensive.
There are your options as I see it.
The two-component (with an activator) as used for autobody and OEM seam sealing is a superior product. It hardens quickly, stays pliable for practically forever and has a certain density which makes it really 'tough'. The problem with it, is it's expensive for the DIY guy. The product costs 5x-7x more plus special aplicator tips
Single-tube urethane (100% Polyurethane) is a good home product, inexpensive ...not 'quite' as durable. Most don't take paint as well if that's important.
Seam Sealer - Not sure what you're looking at, if it's an acrylic product, it may harden and eventually crack. Most don't have the expansion/contraction holding properties as a good polyurethane. OTOH, they can be tough and hard. Inexpensive.
There are your options as I see it.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 807
Likes: 124
From: Homer Georgia
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
When you say urethane, it can be a two-part specialized product, or a single-tube product like you'd find at Lowes, etc.
The two-component (with an activator) as used for autobody and OEM seam sealing is a superior product. It hardens quickly, stays pliable for practically forever and has a certain density which makes it really 'tough'. The problem with it, is it's expensive for the DIY guy. The product costs 5x-7x more plus special aplicator tips
Single-tube urethane (100% Polyurethane) is a good home product, inexpensive ...not 'quite' as durable. Most don't take paint as well if that's important.
Seam Sealer - Not sure what you're looking at, if it's an acrylic product, it may harden and eventually crack. Most don't have the expansion/contraction holding properties as a good polyurethane. OTOH, they can be tough and hard. Inexpensive.
There are your options as I see it.
The two-component (with an activator) as used for autobody and OEM seam sealing is a superior product. It hardens quickly, stays pliable for practically forever and has a certain density which makes it really 'tough'. The problem with it, is it's expensive for the DIY guy. The product costs 5x-7x more plus special aplicator tips
Single-tube urethane (100% Polyurethane) is a good home product, inexpensive ...not 'quite' as durable. Most don't take paint as well if that's important.
Seam Sealer - Not sure what you're looking at, if it's an acrylic product, it may harden and eventually crack. Most don't have the expansion/contraction holding properties as a good polyurethane. OTOH, they can be tough and hard. Inexpensive.
There are your options as I see it.
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Joined: Jan 2010
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From: North Riding of Yorkshire, UK
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
POR-15 has worked fine for me in the past on rusty metal but it's not a great preventer on clean metal without very careful prep to stop it just peeling off. I've switched over to this stuff:
https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion...st-treatments/
Mainly because it's local to me and therefore better value.
https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion...st-treatments/
Mainly because it's local to me and therefore better value.
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 682
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From: Good 'ol WI
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
In your region (GA) IDT it matters much. They'll all work. You don't get those dramatic cold extremes or salty winter roads. But you do get heat, so the more flexible product will probably stand up longer ...over many years.
I'd use whatever's the easiest to apply and cheaper, or whatever one you have already opened up. If you haven't used either, I'd take both back and get a $3 tube of acrylic latex caulk from the home store. It'll work fine too.
I'd use whatever's the easiest to apply and cheaper, or whatever one you have already opened up. If you haven't used either, I'd take both back and get a $3 tube of acrylic latex caulk from the home store. It'll work fine too.
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