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New oil pump, now zero oil flow.

Old Jul 29, 2012 | 02:32 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by xKHANx
Ok, I drilled a hole into the end of one of my long screwdrivers and threaded a bolt onto it and marked and pulled the distributor. I ran the screwdriver down to the head on the oil pump and turned it on high for a good minute. Never seemed to pick any oil up, put the distributoback I and turned it over, still no oil flow. Bad pump?
turn right direction ?
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 02:33 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Bustedback
Did you install the oil pump pickup correctly? I would pull the pan off and double check it.
dist would not go in if wrong correct
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 02:37 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by xKHANx
2000 sport, new head water pump, hoses etc.

After new head my pressure was dropping to zero at stop lights so after looking around here I figured new sensor, oil pump, cam bearings in that order. Well sensor wasn't it, now the pump.

I replaced my pump yesterday and now it isn't moving any oil at all. Any idea on how to prime this thing? I took the connector off that holds the oil pressure sensor and poured almost a quart of oil down it hoping that would prime it. It didn't.

Any ideas?
not trying to insult you but you did put oil in after pump install and pick up tube ?
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 02:48 PM
  #19  
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Going to do that tomorrow. I need a break today...
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 03:05 PM
  #20  
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I can APPRECIATE a break.

Might be rough getting your pump primed now without either first priming it submerged in oil or filling it with petroleum jelly (not in the pump cavity) before installing it.
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 04:45 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by freegdr
dist would not go in if wrong correct
The pickup in the pan. If it is installed wrong or not installed at all there will be nothing to pull the oil from the bottom of the pan.
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 05:14 PM
  #22  
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The pickup is on correctly. I tried turning the pump both ways. Nothing. Guess I'll pull it off this week and see what's up.
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 07:19 PM
  #23  
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Well just because I have the disposable income right now I am going to go ahead and get a rebuilt short block and have everything fresh. I found a shop here that has long blocks for 1399.00 and short locks for 999.00 so I am going to pull this one out this week/end and put it all together next week.

Is it easier to pull the engine and tranny all at once or to just disconnect and pull the block?
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Old Jul 30, 2012 | 11:02 PM
  #24  
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To pull it out in one chunk you'll have to remove the front header and radiator and so on just to have enough room to work with. I would just yank the engine only. To make it easier to remove the top two bellhousing bolts, remove the engine mounts completely, then let the engine drop lower into the engine bay. Then you can get to those pesky bolts a little easier. Just be careful and make sure you have all of the wiring loose and ground straps disconnected. removing the intake and exhaust manifolds will give you a lot of needed room too.
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Old Jul 31, 2012 | 08:36 PM
  #25  
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By header do you mean the front grill or just the metal across the top of the radiator?

Will a 1k engine stand from Harbor freight hold the 4.0?

This should be fun, I haven't pulled a motor since I was a kid and swapped (stole) my brothers 289 out of his mustang after he went in the marines in 1980 and put it in my Fairlane 500!
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Old Jul 31, 2012 | 09:52 PM
  #26  
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Yeah the front clip, then you don't have to lift the engine a mile high and at a steep angle. By doing the engine only it's almost a straight pull up and out without having to remove the front clip.
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Old Aug 1, 2012 | 08:09 PM
  #27  
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Thanks for the advice! I think since I am doing basically a full engine swap I am going to replace the radiator as well and depending upon how ambitious maybe even the heater core as well.
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Old Dec 3, 2012 | 12:23 PM
  #28  
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Sorry to resurrect an old post, but am curious.
This seems to be an air bubble in the pump that means no movement of oil from the pan to the rest of the engine.

Couldn't you prime the pump from the oil filter with either a pressurized backflow of oil using small hand pump and a fitting tapped into a old filter.
Alternatively prime the pump from the filter port using a lower viscosity fluid (like seafoam or something similar)?
Then run the pump with the drill/screwdriver setup until oil flows out the filter port?

Might make a mess but seems easier to clean a mess than drop the oil pan.
Just curious about this.
Someone must have come up with a trick rather than dropping the oil pan.
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