New Heater Control Valve Leaks again :(
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 742
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From: Lake Tapps
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 244
Likes: 4
From: New York, USA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
ok, I thank you very much for "trying to help".
You've stated that the valve would work only "one way", and you were wrong. Now you say it will work but "heat won`t work as good" , and you are wrong again.
And this is all fine with me, btw...
As for your "question" why I am here - it's off topic really.

But if you really want to know, for what ever reason, I am here basically for two reasons:
1. To have conversations with other XJ owners about technical issues, so I hopefully ACTUALLY!!!! understand what "things" are, how things actually work, how to fix them etc...
2. To share my experiences (good ones and bad ones) with other XJ owners.
that's it.

/best regards
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 742
Likes: 0
From: Lake Tapps
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
oh, boy
ok, I thank you very much for "trying to help".
You've stated that the valve would work only "one way", and you were wrong. Now you say it will work but "heat won`t work as good" , and you are wrong again.
And this is all fine with me, btw...
As for your "question" why I am here - it's off topic really.
But if you really want to know, for what ever reason, I am here basically for two reasons:
1. To have conversations with other XJ owners about technical issues, so I hopefully ACTUALLY!!!! understand what "things" are, how things actually work, how to fix them etc...
2. To share my experiences (good ones and bad ones) with other XJ owners.
that's it.
/best regards
ok, I thank you very much for "trying to help".
You've stated that the valve would work only "one way", and you were wrong. Now you say it will work but "heat won`t work as good" , and you are wrong again.
And this is all fine with me, btw...
As for your "question" why I am here - it's off topic really.

But if you really want to know, for what ever reason, I am here basically for two reasons:
1. To have conversations with other XJ owners about technical issues, so I hopefully ACTUALLY!!!! understand what "things" are, how things actually work, how to fix them etc...
2. To share my experiences (good ones and bad ones) with other XJ owners.
that's it.

/best regards
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 742
Likes: 0
From: Lake Tapps
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 244
Likes: 4
From: New York, USA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
ok, Cherokeefever ,
I have an "advice" for you too.
Take that valve out and take a real close look at it. Open it up too.
Then get yourself few cuts of rubber hoses and take it to your bathtub facility and do some "experiments". Run water through it, connect it in various ways, open/close valve, see how it works.
It's fun to do and you will get a chance to actually understand what it is and how it works.
have a good time having fun
/best regards
I have an "advice" for you too.
Take that valve out and take a real close look at it. Open it up too.
Then get yourself few cuts of rubber hoses and take it to your bathtub facility and do some "experiments". Run water through it, connect it in various ways, open/close valve, see how it works.
It's fun to do and you will get a chance to actually understand what it is and how it works.
have a good time having fun

/best regards
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 922
Likes: 2
From: Grand Haven, Michigan
Year: 1998, 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
ok, Cherokeefever ,
I have an "advice" for you too.
Take that valve out and take a real close look at it. Open it up too.
Then get yourself few cuts of rubber hoses and take it to your bathtub facility and do some "experiments". Run water through it, connect it in various ways, open/close valve, see how it works.
It's fun to do and you will get a chance to actually understand what it is and how it works.
have a good time having fun
/best regards
I have an "advice" for you too.
Take that valve out and take a real close look at it. Open it up too.
Then get yourself few cuts of rubber hoses and take it to your bathtub facility and do some "experiments". Run water through it, connect it in various ways, open/close valve, see how it works.
It's fun to do and you will get a chance to actually understand what it is and how it works.
have a good time having fun

/best regards
Mike
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 244
Likes: 4
From: New York, USA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
It was completed - page2 / post#25
I have no problems with the valve since then.
As I've mentioned, if it will fail again, I will drop a note. If I don't post an "update" - this would mean one of two: either the valve works fine and no leak, either I'm gone to the void with no trace (well, could be both...)

now,
BEEEEEEEEEEEEER!!!!! , please

************
p.s.
there are many posts and replies here that are just - unintended consequences....which is fine with me -
I would like to provide my unsolicited $.02:
1) The valve functions the same either upside-down or right side-up as long as you have in the ins connected to ins and the outs connected to outs.
2) If you install the valve upside-down, then where the 2 pieces of plastic are molded together is constantly exposed to the pressure of the cooling system (when the thermostat is open of course). If you install it right side-up, then the interface is only exposed to the pressure when the heater is on. I had one of these fail at the interface and it was installed upside-down. My replacement is now right side-up. We'll see if I get the same failure. Both valves were Mopar parts.
As a side note, I have mine installed on an '87 (a closed to open conversion), and I currently have a 16lb. radiator cap. Can one of you guys with this factory plumbing tell me what your radiator caps are rated for? I could very well have just over-pressured the heater control valve.
1) The valve functions the same either upside-down or right side-up as long as you have in the ins connected to ins and the outs connected to outs.
2) If you install the valve upside-down, then where the 2 pieces of plastic are molded together is constantly exposed to the pressure of the cooling system (when the thermostat is open of course). If you install it right side-up, then the interface is only exposed to the pressure when the heater is on. I had one of these fail at the interface and it was installed upside-down. My replacement is now right side-up. We'll see if I get the same failure. Both valves were Mopar parts.
As a side note, I have mine installed on an '87 (a closed to open conversion), and I currently have a 16lb. radiator cap. Can one of you guys with this factory plumbing tell me what your radiator caps are rated for? I could very well have just over-pressured the heater control valve.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 244
Likes: 4
From: New York, USA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
I have 16lb rad cap.
Also I may be wrong, but I think that coolant always "runs" to the heater valve (and through the core, when the valv is open) regardlessly of whether or not the t-stat is open. Correct me if I am wrong.
************
when you say: "If you install it right side-up, then the interface is only exposed to the pressure when the heater is on."
what do you mean by "interface"? What exactly "inteface" is? I am just trying to understand what do you mean exactly
This valve is really nothing more than plastic cylinder with four holes/fittings, call them 1,2,3 and 4. The "valve" inside is a metal plate, that either opens flow between 1&2 and 3&4, while blocking the flow between 2&3 and 1&4; either blocking flow between 1&2 and 3&4, while opens the flow between 2&3 and 1&4.
As I understand, The engineering challenge here is all about the "problem" that to turn that metal plate inside the "cylinder" from one state to the other by the vac. actuator outside the cylinder - you need another "hole" (the lever hole, that is).
So there you have it - you must have a hole and you must not let the coolant leak through that hole
- that's a challenge
Also I may be wrong, but I think that coolant always "runs" to the heater valve (and through the core, when the valv is open) regardlessly of whether or not the t-stat is open. Correct me if I am wrong.
************
when you say: "If you install it right side-up, then the interface is only exposed to the pressure when the heater is on."
what do you mean by "interface"? What exactly "inteface" is? I am just trying to understand what do you mean exactly

This valve is really nothing more than plastic cylinder with four holes/fittings, call them 1,2,3 and 4. The "valve" inside is a metal plate, that either opens flow between 1&2 and 3&4, while blocking the flow between 2&3 and 1&4; either blocking flow between 1&2 and 3&4, while opens the flow between 2&3 and 1&4.
As I understand, The engineering challenge here is all about the "problem" that to turn that metal plate inside the "cylinder" from one state to the other by the vac. actuator outside the cylinder - you need another "hole" (the lever hole, that is).
So there you have it - you must have a hole and you must not let the coolant leak through that hole
- that's a challenge
On mine, the portion of the valve where the vacuum actuator is contains what appears to be a junction between 2 molded pieces of plastic (where the one out-of-plane port connects to the other 3 in-plane ports). THAT is where mine leaked (not where the vacuum actuator goes through the plastic housing).
My intent was not so much to address your engineering challenge as it was to address the statements regarding the "upside down" installation. My point was:
A) There is an ideal up direction for valve installation.
&
B) Up-side down installation will have zero effect on the operation of the valve. The only potential problem with an upside-down installation is the constant exposure of the plastic joint to the cooling system pressure. If you aren't getting leaks there... then there is no problem. Me: I leaked from that joint, so for all future installations, I will be ensuring that the joint is only exposed to cooling system pressures when coolant is flowing through the heater core.
As for your seal packing upgrade: I think its $$$
Edit: Here is the part I am talking about (from a picture posted earlier in this thread)
My intent was not so much to address your engineering challenge as it was to address the statements regarding the "upside down" installation. My point was:
A) There is an ideal up direction for valve installation.
&
B) Up-side down installation will have zero effect on the operation of the valve. The only potential problem with an upside-down installation is the constant exposure of the plastic joint to the cooling system pressure. If you aren't getting leaks there... then there is no problem. Me: I leaked from that joint, so for all future installations, I will be ensuring that the joint is only exposed to cooling system pressures when coolant is flowing through the heater core.
As for your seal packing upgrade: I think its $$$
Edit: Here is the part I am talking about (from a picture posted earlier in this thread)
Last edited by TheNerd; Jan 7, 2010 at 09:40 AM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 244
Likes: 4
From: New York, USA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Uh, thank you for explanation...I get what you are saying now. I was not sure before. It makes sense and maybe you 've got a point there.
The only thing I must add here is that , I would guess, that "the joint" should be able to handle the coolant pressure regardlessly and maybe it should be able to handle even somewhat higher pressure than "expected" to be there ...don't you think? I mean, say, you always have the heater "ON"....then what the difference? See what I mean. Or maybe there's a difference. Maybe I'm missing something.
One thing is clear though - the valve isn't symmetrical ..heh heh, so the designer must of think of something when he was designing it.
The only thing I must add here is that , I would guess, that "the joint" should be able to handle the coolant pressure regardlessly and maybe it should be able to handle even somewhat higher pressure than "expected" to be there ...don't you think? I mean, say, you always have the heater "ON"....then what the difference? See what I mean. Or maybe there's a difference. Maybe I'm missing something.

One thing is clear though - the valve isn't symmetrical ..heh heh, so the designer must of think of something when he was designing it.

Again, the only reason that I even bring the subject up is because "the joint" is where I had a 1-year old Mopar heater control valve leak from.
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 3
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From: Clemmons, North Carolina
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
The heater control valve in my jeep and is leaking coolant bad but im not sure where from I did a pressure test on the cooling system and it was leaking around the control valve so I replaced it and also cut the ends of the hoses off and put new clamps on them (the screw kind)...The heater control valve in my cherokee is upside down compared to the picture you have posted I would really appreciate any help I could get on this guys
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 244
Likes: 4
From: New York, USA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
The heater control valve in my jeep and is leaking coolant bad but im not sure where from I did a pressure test on the cooling system and it was leaking around the control valve so I replaced it and also cut the ends of the hoses off and put new clamps on them (the screw kind)...The heater control valve in my cherokee is upside down compared to the picture you have posted I would really appreciate any help I could get on this guys
Or is your question just about the "right" position of the valve.?
When you say: "The heater control valve in my cherokee is upside down compared to the picture you have posted" , which picture do you refer to?
Do you refer to the picture I've posted or to the picture posted by Cherokeefever?
I personally have no idea which way is "right". The way it is in mine jeep is the way it was as I've got it... I've replaced mine (the old valve that was leaking, that is) and installed the new one exactly the same way as it was... so if it's upside down, then someone before me installed it that way.
All I know is that it works either way.
***********
After I've installed the new valve it was still leaking through the lever hole, as described at the begining of the thread.
So....As for leaking valve issue - all described above still stands

I just can add this. As of today, since the last update (see post #34), I had no problem with the valve. Made it throught the winter and not a single drop ever since, bang-bang-bang ...




Look at any cherokee and u`ll c that u have it upside down.