Ok so I primed the pump using this



And it took some time but it finally primed. I could feel the resistance and I checked the dip stick and noted that the level had dropped to a reasonable level cranked it with out fuel a few times after installing the dizzy and wires again. Watched the oil pressure and now I'm getting a proper reading. So I put the relay back in and turned it over and it ran smooth as butter all my gauges were responsive and proper so I let it warm up and by gauges got to here



Yes I know the engine is not running because I had just shut it down because it started to stall again but no squeal or loss of oil pressure preceded it everything was fine. And i also noted the tell tail drip drip drip of the oil falling from the upper cylinders down into the pan. So I looked underneath and I am loosing oil from somewhere




And some is dripping from the inspection cover. Not sure where it could be coming from. It couldn't be the rear main seal could it? I so t think it is because I started it once more after and no more oil leaked out

 

Well no leak it turned out to be some oil I had spilled and some oil I sprayer when priming the pump I had removed the sender to see when the oil started flowing and well I spilled just a smige. I broke the engine in fur 20 minuets at 2k and it runs great. I'm going to take it due a short test drive round the block before I consider it done well a jeep is never done but u get the idea

 

Took it for a test drive and I still have issues it would seam. For some strange reason the t-case is flinging fluid out its back end end I am not getting a spedo reading. Other issue is its running too hot. I wired the aux fan turn in by switch but still it's running hotter than I would like. It is not pegging or anything like that

 

This is a new engine, so it will generate a tad more additional heat because the motor is still tight. Also, be sure to burp your cooling system and get any excess air out of there. These engines are notorious for this.

I have a reading of 210 all the time once it's warmed up. Winter, summer, doesn't matter. With near 100 degree temps, the AC on full and sitting at a red light for few minutes it might creep up to 212, but that's about it. So if you're around 210 I don't know that I'd worry about it too much.

I may be telling you something you already know, but for those that don't... Some people think that because they have a 180 or 190 degree thermostat in there that the engine should never get hotter than that. This is false. The rating on the t-stat is the temp at which it opens and allows coolant to flow through. And the whole principle behind having coolant in the first place is because it raises the boiling point of the water to a temp higher than 212. A 180-195 degree t-stat is doing it's job by keeping your engine at at least 180-195 degrees, which is within an optimal range give or take, and usually does this very well, except in those extreme conditions when the temps dip near 0. At that point you may be putting cardboard over the grill like we did when I was a kid in Pennsylvania!

On your t-case fluid slinging, my guess is that it sat for enough time for the seal(s) to dry out a bit and shrink up some. I'd check the fluid levels, and maybe put a seal conditioner in there if the condition lasts longer than a few days. Sometimes just getting things moving and lubricated will plump the seals back up. No speedo reading? Could it be that your cable is disconnected?

Really glad to hear you got your oil issues fixed! Nothing will pucker your sphincter faster than thinking your brand new engine you just spent a lot of money and hours on is a dud. Onward and upward!

 

Yea you hit the nail on the head with the whole sphincter pucker thing.if the rear seal is dead I can steal the one from my 231 and I think either I disconnected or my mistake or did not swap the one from the 231 onto the 242

 

Is it possible that your speed sensor is not bolted in properly? That's a good place for a leak and would be a cause of why your speedo doesn't work.

What temp are you running? Are you using the orginal temps sensor or did you purchase a new one? One of those no-contact infared temp sensor you can get from Harbor Freight can come in handy for checking temps in various places, and they're not too expensive. Check your mechanical fan too, those are prone to failing.

 

Temp sender is new but relocated



That to I'd also posible I may not hand tightened the gear peoperly. I'll have to check it out.
Getting this jeep un and running right is way more complicated than I could have imagined. I knew it wasn't as simple as turn the key and be done but still now that it moves it seems like there are more things that need attention

 

^^^That's an interesting idea right there... Was it hard to do? I'm planning an E-fan swap, and would LOVE to sink the temp probe in a similar fashion.

Would you give us a quick run-down as to how it went? Perhaps some reasoning as to why you chose that spot?

Either way, neat!

 

Well the sensor boss was not drilled and tapped in the head in the reman and the 96 and older gauges run on a sending unit located in the back of the head so I did not feel motivated to remove my head and take a drill to cast iron and hope I don't mess up. I figured if the ecu does not mind using the t-stat cover why should I. And drilling and tapping a small aluminum part is a lot lest costly if I really mess it up.



I used a 5/16 HHS bit (HHS cut aluminum like butter) and a 1/8th 27 tapered tap. The senders threads are tapered. I buy cobalt bits insted of coated or plain old HHS buys because I find that they are pretty good for the money now that being said if you can get m42 bits than those are king.

As for my Xj I found that the oil slinger was not on seated on the shaft just long of floating in space, not sure why but I pressed it back on and problem solved as for my speedometer issue well that is proving tricky. A little more investigation is needed on this one. My check engine light is on today so that required my attention now so I'm off to get a code checker and some exhaust wrap to seal a few leaks.

 

Ok so I checked the codes and I got 3
P0135 bank 1 sensor 1 upstream sensor o2 heater malfunction
P0138 bank 1 sensor 2 down stream sensor o2 high voltage
P0141 bank 1 sensor 2 down stream sensor o2 heater malfunction
I replaced the one in the cat just before the old engine died and I had a feeling the one in the down pipe was bad I'm pretty sure it got abused while trying to get the new engine in
I was doing some reading and what I'm getting a lot if is that I should only use oem sensors for the o2 is this true? Also I'm guessing that the choppy idle and shaky engine are a result of the bad o2 sensors. As for my speedo issue I'm stumped. I realized that I had forgotten to swap the one from the original 231 into the 242 out of a 97 zj so I did that and turns out they had 2 different gears the Xj gear was 1 tooth difference. ( Xj gear color was orange, zj was green) but still no response from my dash?

 

IIRC, there should be a fuse for those O2 sensors... make sure it's good!

 

Just chucking in a few thoughts. The 02 heaters have their own relays I think. Keep in mind that the power a relay "forwards", may well be from a different source than the power that the relay coil it's-self is using to close those contacts.

Also high voltage.., potentially could be the 12 heater wire shorting to the 5v sensor wire? Just some thoughts...Besides just a good inspection of the wires, checking what you can, Ground, 12v heater, and 5v sensor feed at the O2 socket might be a direction.

 

I did some digging and there is a fuse so I have to go and check it later today. The relay was in 97-01 Xj's with Cali emissions I think they had 2 more sensors than the non Cali emissions. I'm kind of thinking that it has to be a fuse or some wiring because on Saturday it ran well and then Sunday I start it and it runs rough.

 

Well I checked my fuses and all are good so that bright ray of simplicity has now faded. Before I go on I must rant about what I affectionally call my Xj: a "transition year".y first big gripe is the laziness involved in transition years, first off who the hell thought it would be funny to put a big square steering column infront of a round dash bezel opening! Honestly even for dealer techs it's a nightmare to remove the bezel and even if you remove the column covering there's this big connector in the way that you can't effing move. Next point of laziness is the owners manual. Not all 96 changes are reflected in it for example the pdc layout they show



Mine does not look like that it looks like this




Granted I can figure it out but there are plenty of people out there who would have no idea what to do. Next, they redesigned the fuel pump to include the pressure regulator but didn't give it a plastic tank, not only that but not all 96 models have a temp sending unit located on the head, and to top it off they couldn't wait a year to change the ecu style. Well I think that ends my "transition year rant".

 

Hey man. They gotta use up all those parts on the shelf somehow

I feel your pain on transitions years. Been there myself. However, nothing will ever top the clusterf**k nightmare that was my 89 Wrangler. That wasn't a transition year. That was a transition ownership situation thanks to the mess that was Chrysler back then. The Puegot transmission had about as much strength as spaghetti, and cost a small fortune to repair. The Mitsubishi starter was weak and cost nearly twice what a typical domestic starter cost back then. And I never could quite get my brain wrapper around it's bastardized hybrid of fuel injection and carburation. Never could get that part of it to function correctly. God forbid anything was even the slightest bit off with it and you'd be stranded in a heartbeat.