Ok so I uses the punch and aligned the holes and the gear and can are in proper index I had it off by one tooth. So I took the videos of it running and before I posted it I looked at my dizzy again.....and what do you know.... I am an idiot I mixed up cylinder 3 in the firing order and put 2 after 5 insted so I swapped them turned it over and funny thing it starred up and runs like a champ

 

Ok I have a new issue that I will post a video for I'm 15 minuets

 

Ok here us the video forgive the quality the air intake kind of drowns out all else

 

Where is the sound coming from? The sound reminds me of when my distributor seized and needed to be replaced.

 

I pulled the belt and checked all pulled. Alternator bearing was toast, nothing a quick trip to the auto store can't fix. I'll update after I throw it in

 

Ok so while the alternator bearings were bad a problem solved this is not. It is still squealing. And stalling not long after. I took note of my oil pressure which I should have been doing before and it's not registering. So I pulled my sending unit and it's bone dry no oil has gotten to the sending unit. So I took off the oil filter and it was dry dry dry. i am assuming the next step is to test the oil pump by hand and remove it depending on what the result of my test is........

 

Couple of questions:

Did your rebuilt engine come with the oil pan on? I.E. was the oil pump and pickup already installed or did you have to install it?

Was it a longblock or shortblock rebuild?

Did you prime the oil pump and get some oil to the top of the motor by using a drill and some kind of flat-bladed attachment to spin the oil pump through the dizzy hole before you installed the dizzy?

Did you happen to notice if your oil gallery plugs were installed, especially the one that goes in the block behind the camshaft drive gear? There another one at the back of the block, but if it's gone you'll have oil running out behind the engine, so that one would be obvious.

Since you're not getting lubrication, the scariest question is, how long have you run the engine this way and how hot did it get?

 

It was a long block. It came with a pump that i had to install. I had to reuse my oil pan and the pickup tube. No i did not prime the pump because no one suggested it to me. When i emailed the engine company multiple times about what would be proper procedure for first start they did would not respond so i had to go on what i could find and what i knew. THe plugs were all in place i was sure to take note if it. The oil is not even making it past the pump so i don't think they are the issue. The engine has run no more than 2 minuets tops in little intervals never reaching full temp only getting to 100 degrees at the most before i shut it down. I know this is kind of a bad situation and this is what i am doing now

 

Aw-fer-christ-sakes..Boch platunium AND FRAM!!! 30 lashes I say! Nice Cherokee..good stuff...Man sorry shamrock...that's tough.

Shamrock, can frams's, Fram Replace After Meltdown, with Napa #1626, (Which IS Wix available elsewhere). Pull the dizy and rig something to spin the oil pump with a drill.

Just a thought..get that oil pump primed.

Yes! (I'm that slow!) What he said^. Don't run it more till it's primed, you are almost certainly fine....the lube they put in there should do ya for a few short tests.

 

Thanks D I know I can always count on u to give me hell when it's called for. And I never listed what kind of plugs I used to have although I will not tell u that you are wrong as for the fram I used that because I removed the filter adapter and in the write up I followed that was the filter number he listed as a proper size replacement. So I have something of an excuse for that as for the unnamed previous plugs well..... I have no proper reason. So tomorrow I will give priming the pump a shot and up date you guys as to how that goes. Anything I should look for to know if it worked or not?

 

It's best to pull the valve cover to get a good look, but you may be able to see through the oil cap fill hole with a flashlight.

Essentially, when turning the pump with the drill, you're checking to see if your getting oil to the top of the motor. If you are getting a good generous flow of it up there, you should be in good shape thereafter. When I primed mine, I had the valve cover off, and the drill going at about 150 RPM. Once the oil reached the top, it was a lot. What I mean to say is that it was very obvious. About 1/2 a cup a second or better, and squirting out of the pushrods. If you are just looking through the fill hole and you aren't sure if the oil is flowing, it's probably not. If you can't tell for sure, your next step is too pull the valve cover and prime again. If you still don't see good amounts of oil with the drill going at about 150 RPM or better (I used my Ryobi 18v in low gear) you have some bigger issues.

A note of caution, It can be tough to find something to put in the drill that will be long enough to reach down through the hole and engage with the slot in the top of the pump shaft. DON'T use one of those 4"-6" drill extensions that has a 1/4" hex hole in the end and then slide a flat blade bit in there. If that bit should fall out, you may be looking at some difficulty retrieving it, possible requiring dropping the pan and removing the oil pump. I'm speaking form experience here...

I learned that lesson the hard way. I have since found that taking one of my old worn out spade drill drill bits and grinding down the end to fit works better. If it falls out of the drill chuck, its long enough for me to easily pull it out of the hole.

Anyway, if you try priming the pump and you're not getting oil up top, you've got some issues.

-There is a known issue where the machined mating surface in the block where the oil pumps sits has a spot that is slightly higher. If you get any part of the mating surface of the pump on this spot, it will create a gap that will allow oil to squirt out of it and go right back into the pan.

-You may have a clogged pickup tube. It's always recommended to use a new one, even if the old one looks clear.

There's a great article here that gives a write-up of common oil pump issues on Jeep engines and how best to address them.
http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/vi...hp?f=34&t=2671

If you check these things and it all gets the green light, and you still aren't getting oil to the top, STOP! Call your engine builder or supplier, because you've got some internal issues that aren't right that your engine builder is responsible for. It could be bad bearing clearances or some other fatal internal issue that you don't want any part of and should not have to deal with. Be sure to get some video on your phone or something of you priming the pump but getting no oil to the top, and email them that when you contact them. Also document your oil pump installation and take pictures of that to verify you ad show them it is correct. Demand a new longblock.

Even if you start getting oil and have no further issues, be sure to video your "initial" 20 minute start-up and burn-in. Be sure that you can see and hear the motor running in the video, and that it also shows the mileage, oil pressure, and temperature gauge readings, especially as you near the 20 minute mark, and make sure you show in the video a clock or watch to indicate the start and stop times of the burn-in. I documented mine that way just in case anything went wrong in the first few months, that way they couldn't blame it on me for not doing something I was supposed to do. A typical start-up and burn-in is 20 minutes at 2000 RPM, but ask teh builder their recommendations. Be sure to have a box fan or two if you have them blowing at the radiator during the burn-in. Also, it's not uncommon on a new tight engine burn-in to see the exhaust manifold get so hot it has a slight orange glow.

Anyway, I hope some of this helps!!

 

Fantastic Macgyver. Stuff I wouldn't have thought of.

Ha, the oil pump drive stuff reminds me of the Apollo mission where the guys on the ground were experimenting with Tang cans or whatever to rig the carbon dioxide scrubber for return. Could a guy smash the plastic handle off a cheap, large flat blade screwdriver? Or possibly smash the end of a (preferably 3/8) metal tube flat? If I didn't have a shop and a grinder and 30 acres of gunk, I might just wander around a Harbor Freight and see what looks right...(tell them you want to test a grinder on a spade bit!)

Also btw I've seen mentioned having a dizy with the gear removed to use to drive the pump. (Not sure what that was on)

I did see a post addressing priming where they packed the pump with..grease..or something like that to facilitate priming. Best of luck.

 

...I'm a genius-

Anyways, now that you know how critical it is to use the proper method when installing the distributor you can be here to tell the next guy (and there will almost certainly be a next) how to do it right. You are becoming an experienced Jeep tech!

I made a tool once to prime my oil pumps. I had a 7" long drill extention with a threaded insert in the end. I ground off the head of a bolt and Locktight it into the extention so it wouldn't fall out. It's about 9" long overall. Have used it many times without issue... until this last build. I don't, to this day know how it happened, but after I primed my pump I lifted my drill out and the tool "fell" out of the chuck and drop into the hole. Gone. I would have never thought that a 9" long tool could have slipped through a cavity and drop all the way to the bottom of the pan. Tired for an hour with a magnetic pickup tool to no avail. Had to pull the pan to get it out. Luckily (cup half full outlook) the engine was still on the stand and not in the truck yet.

So prime that pump and lets hear that thing roar!

 

Running with out oil pressure aint gonna be a good out come from what your saying about running and shutting down priming with drill is best bet make sure your going correct direction same as firing order good luck...

 

another way of making a priming tool junk yard dist with cam gear removed attach drill to where rotor goes on..jm2cw