DO NOT USE AMMCO! Ask around, talk to some other offroad guys or muscle car guys. Ask some folks at the parts stores who is good in the area. Hopefully you got a dude somewhere nearby that does this as side work and guarantees what he builds.

I have a transmission guy I use way out in the boonies. He replaces everything and guarantees his transmissions for 1 year no matter what. If you drag race 365 days a year he will guarantee it, and usually costs half the price of aamco. Because he knows its got good parts in it.

Way to many transmission shops only replace the bad parts. Some will even reuse old clutches! You must flush the transmission lines before installing a new transmission. Flush the cooler also, Id suggest getting an aftermarket cooler instead.

Id almost bet the torque converter was the culprit. My 70 GTO turbo 400 is needing rebuilt right now because of the torque converter. Darn thing whines like I got a super charger on it! Good luck!

 

had a problem like your stopping and going problem where my car would jump forwards. Turns out the solenoids needed to be replaced, 3k later i still drive a honda

 

SY = salvage yard

 

Codes? You might want to check. Was me I might change the filter/fluid, see that those electric deals are working, then decide about changing it. Did you check the TCU fuse?
Some warranties, they just charge about double. I figure they just don't want us to feel guilty about getting a replacement.

14 to 23? Bet you are thinking 14 and he's gonna turn out asking 23. That span is easily double what a JY tranny might cost. Sorry btw, that does sound pretty bad.

Saw a post, a guy talked about removing one of the cooling lines to flush it running. Your filter has got to be pretty bad though.

And saw this;

(TANGENT: Reports from the field on "power-flushing" the AW4 by forcing fresh fluid through it are mixed, but generally negative. If you suspect it's crudded up, the best method found to date is to buy a case of Dexron and 3-4 cans of B-12 "Chemtool" - dump in a can of Chemtool and change the fluid - hot! - in 1,000 miles. Repeat twice. This seems to be easier on the transmission and clutches than powerflushing.)

 

I don't have a code reader and i dont see any check engine lights so....... Should i just try to key trick? What tcu fuse? I was reading about it but i haven't tried it yet, i got my xj into my driveway and now i can't roll it back out since it doesn't move AT ALL.

In your honest opinion what do you think i should do? I wouldn't mind swapping in a new tranny with my 2 friends because i already know they're down to help. I just dont have anywhere to do it nor do i have a lift or anything.

 

If your going to spend 2k on getting it rebuilt I would just buy a new one, thats what I did...works great put it in myself..takes a couple of hours but it was only me and my brother so its kinda heavy for just 2 people. Other than that its really easy check the Haynes thats how I initially learned before actually doing it and I am not that mechanically inclined.

 

Like a few other said - junk yard. My trans crapped out on me 3 weeks ago. I went and picked up a used trans with 94k for $150 with a 90 day warranty / new oem flexplate $130 from the stealership / $100 trans jack from harbor freight / $75 fluids, gasket, filter. So for under $500 including beer and 2 days I was good to go. The job isn't very challenging at all. Just take your time and you'll be OK!

 

WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO. Called up a couple places and found a salvage yard selling the tranny and torque converter for 300 bucks with a 3 month warranty. I'm going to find a place to work on it and this beast will be back on the road. Thanks for the idea guys!

 

Only "special" tools you will need are 1. E12 socket for the top 2 bolts on the trans. 2. Disconnect tool for cooler lines (Auto part stores rent them)

 

Is there a step by step guide to do it? This will be the first time me or any of my buddies have ever done something like this

 

Get a haynes or chilton manual with chiltons being the best haynes will get you by. Its fairly straight forward biggest thing is getting those top 2 bolts, and if possible take some before pics for a reference.

 

+1 and replace those two bolts while you are up there with regular bolts. I can't remember the sizes off the top of my head, but I found them at lowes. That way if you have to do it again (hopefully you don't) it'll be easier.

 

My TCU fuse is on the harness right near the TCU under the glovebox. Your 96 might be elsewhere. It will slip more without it.

Yea that key trick can be tough. I have heard of cases of "finger fatigue". One reported case of blistering. (but from a cranker I think).

I'm no wizard here.., but I think 95>96 was the change to OBDII. You MIGHT want a trans 96 > up. 2000? I I DON'T KNOW!!!

This is for a manual, might be helpful;
http://borntourist.com/gallery2/v/mo...tch/?g2_page=1 WHOOPS! Edited, now starts on page one. <

I once made a plastic pole tent in the mud in a February downpour to swap a 4WD Jeep trany. (laying on those cheap tarps will stop some of the mud, but plan on water!) The small 2 ton floor jack can be on plywood, can also role off.

1984-1990 w/AMC engine are pre-OBD.

1984-1986 w/GM V6-173 are OBD-I (GM control setup.)

1991-1995 are OBD-I (Chrysler)

1996-2001 are OBD-II (Chrysler)

The "Key Tricks"
Older (OBDI) models - Start with the ignition off. Within five seconds, switch the key on, off, on, off, on. ("On" is NOT "Start" and "Off" is NOT "Lock"). The "check engine" light will flash. Count the flashes. Each code is a two digit code, so a (for example) 23 would be FLASH FLASH (pause) FLASH FLASH FLASH (long pause). It will never flash more than 9 times, so watch for those pauses!

Newer (OBDII) models - Put the key into the ignition, push down the odometer reset button, then turn the key to RUN with your finger on the button - and then release the button. The odometer will go through 1111111 through 999999, then display the car's serial number. It will then show the error codes (it might show them starting with P). If this method does not work, try the OBDI method.

I'll look for the fuse, or maybe someone could post it.

OK, this turned up;
Re: TCU fuse location
There is two (2) fuses for the TCU one powers the brain part of it and the second powers the outputs.
The fuses are F3 F6 F15 in the PDC also make sure your brake lights are working.