Need the XJ to run HOTTER
#107
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#108
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Year: 2000 sport
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: New 4.0l from s&j engines
____________________
I can say this ,Ive played with this thermal cam all night trying different settings learning how to use it and so on. All I see as for the cooling system is it basically is the same temp throughout the system. With small and I mean small amounts of change on the exit line of the heater hose after it has had its heat taken away a little. Its the same story on the rad. From engine to rad its hot, just a little temp change from rad to engine. Just a little cooler but not by much. Guys I don't want to get in the middle of a whole thing I'm just playing with my toy..ha ha get it. Give me a few days and I will master this little cam and all the adjustments and stuff. Here is another vid I made. I just shut the jeep off, it's not running in this vid. The vid starts with looking into the motor from the front right looking at the heater hoses.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=AgtjlOvpQrc&feature=youtu.be&list
#110
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Funny.
Who needs comments anyway?
Who needs comments anyway?
#112
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
1. with the camera stationary, on a cold morning/day (cold enough to need the heater) engine start-up, heater on hot, motor idling.....to see what areas begin to heat 1st, as the motor begins to warm and coolant begins to transition to the rad
2. after driving a while, motor fully warmed up/heater roaring on that same cold day, a shot of the rad from the front (a/c condenser may be a problem) or maybe a shot of each end of the rad
3. lastly, a July/August video in +90* ambient, XJ driven/motor hot, then a video with the motor idling, a/c roaring, a shot of the rad, if possible.
Give a guy an inch and he takes a mile....sorry. It would be interesting to see AND very much appreciated, though. That thermal camera might shed some light on it being worth cutting up a perfectly good to instal hood vents.
I'm still thinking, that in cold weather and running the heater, the video would show a substantial color difference between the 2 ends of the rad....but . In hot weather, the video would show just 1 big blob of red.....fender-2-fender, firewall-2-grille.
Last edited by djb383; 10-25-2014 at 12:26 PM.
#113
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Year: 2000 sport
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: New 4.0l from s&j engines
I'd like to see a video:
1. with the camera stationary, on a cold morning/day (cold enough to need the heater) engine start-up, heater on hot, motor idling.....to see what areas begin to heat 1st, as the motor begins to warm and coolant begins to transition to the rad
Ok I can do this it has been 32f here in the mornings recently. I can get a good cold to full warm up vid, so we can see all the stuff that gets hot first.
2. after driving a while, motor fully warmed up/heater roaring on that same cold day, a shot of the rad from the front (a/c condenser may be a problem) or maybe a shot of each end of the rad
I don't Have AC I took it out. So no a/c condenser in the way
3. lastly, a July/August video in +90* ambient, XJ driven/motor hot, then a video with the motor idling, a/c roaring, a shot of the rad, if possible.
This one might take a while. I wont see warm temps untill May or June
Give a guy an inch and he takes a mile....sorry. It would be interesting to see AND very much appreciated, though. That thermal camera might shed some light on it being worth cutting up a perfectly good to instal hood vents.
I'm still thinking, that in cold weather and running the heater, the video would show a substantial color difference between the 2 ends of the rad....but . In hot weather, the video would show just 1 big blob of red.....fender-2-fender, firewall-2-grille.
The cam adjusts pretty good so it wont show just a big blob of red..lol
1. with the camera stationary, on a cold morning/day (cold enough to need the heater) engine start-up, heater on hot, motor idling.....to see what areas begin to heat 1st, as the motor begins to warm and coolant begins to transition to the rad
Ok I can do this it has been 32f here in the mornings recently. I can get a good cold to full warm up vid, so we can see all the stuff that gets hot first.
2. after driving a while, motor fully warmed up/heater roaring on that same cold day, a shot of the rad from the front (a/c condenser may be a problem) or maybe a shot of each end of the rad
I don't Have AC I took it out. So no a/c condenser in the way
3. lastly, a July/August video in +90* ambient, XJ driven/motor hot, then a video with the motor idling, a/c roaring, a shot of the rad, if possible.
This one might take a while. I wont see warm temps untill May or June
Give a guy an inch and he takes a mile....sorry. It would be interesting to see AND very much appreciated, though. That thermal camera might shed some light on it being worth cutting up a perfectly good to instal hood vents.
I'm still thinking, that in cold weather and running the heater, the video would show a substantial color difference between the 2 ends of the rad....but . In hot weather, the video would show just 1 big blob of red.....fender-2-fender, firewall-2-grille.
The cam adjusts pretty good so it wont show just a big blob of red..lol
#115
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Well, after all this discussion, I think I'm just going to go get a new MotoRad 180 (I KNOW THAT 195 IS RECOMMENDED BUT I'VE ALREADY CRACKED ONE HEAD, NOT GOING THROUGH THAT AGAIN!) when I go into work tomorrow and swap it out.
#116
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Year: 2015, 2012
Model: Grand Cherokee (WK2)
Engine: 3.6L
Your head didn't crack because of the 195* thermostat. The lack of a muffler possibly caused it. Not enough backpressure.
(not really)
Do whatever you want. It's your Jeep.
I sure enjoyed my 195* MOPAR stats during our cold Arkansas winter last year.
(not really)
Do whatever you want. It's your Jeep.
I sure enjoyed my 195* MOPAR stats during our cold Arkansas winter last year.
Last edited by Firestorm500; 10-26-2014 at 01:57 AM.
#117
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Save yourself the "headache" and go get a 52028186 from the dealer.
#118
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Overheating does not occur because the minimum engine temperature was the factory specification... It happens because the maximum engine temperature exceeded the factory specification because the cooling system couldn't remove enough heat. Thermostats have NOTHING to do with overheating unless they are forced closed.
#120
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Year: 1990
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