99XJ 4DR.

So.... in my XJ's previous life as a barely used service vehicle.... it had a radio mounted... (most likely a CB variety that city governments use)..... and had been fitted with a roof mounted antenna in the middle (professionally done under the headliner)...
Well, that was taken off and a very poor attempt at plugging the hole was made before I got the jeep. I've dealt with it with a variety of sealing techniques in the last 4+ years I've had it. The last being the one that lasted the longest.... a piece of flexible material that they use to patch the outside shells of expensive RV's that have a crack/small damage. And are water tight. Well initially I believe that to be true. The adhesive on that patch was stronger than hardened steel.. lol.
But now in the new climate... that patch is on it's last leg... I want a more perm. solution. I'm tired of chasing this repair...over and over.
I don't care if it's pretty...while I do care about my Jeep... she ain't show quality... I just want it functional so I can prep, paint and be done with it. I dread two things... one taking down the headliner that is in really great shape. As it may not go back in the same way.
And second... trying to find someone local to me in H-town that can do a good job at welding automotive sheet metal without charging an arm and a leg.

Thoughts, suggestions for best repair of this sort? I want to stop the bit of decay that has started in its tracks and clean it all out.

 

.....hard to believe that no one has ever had to patch their roof before.....

 

maybe JB weld or some kitty hair filler

 

I'se conrffoozle. You mentioned having it welded. Are you looking for an alternative?

How big is the hole? Most antenna mounts are 3/4", and there are rubber plugs made to fit those holes. They do a pretty good job, especially when they get painted over.


Other than plugging it, welding is really the best option.

 

I had a "spot" that bubbled up on my roof at the edge of the gutter. I poked it enough to see it was a rust bubble that developed from the inside. I cleaned it out, sanded it and then "ospho'ed" it. I filled it with bondo, smoothed and sanded it and sprayed it with some rattle can "self etching" primer and it has been solid since.
Of course, I taped it off prior to bondo and paint so that it is a small rectangle. Hardly noticeable.

 

https://www.mcmaster.com/grommets/cut-to-size-grommets/

The center "hole" in the above grommets are not opened up. You can select the correct size for the hole and metal thickness that best fits a particular size grommet and seal over the entire grommet with exterior grade RTV silicone sealant.

 

yeah...but over time under the patches I've tried to keep going.... there's a little surface corrosion. Not bad...but I just want to have a permanent fix for it. I've deal with patching it for the last 4 and a half years.
Welding is what I'm looking at.... but not easy to find someone to do that here so far... and at a reasonable cost too.

 

been there done that.... and it works for a little while... then after the UV rays and this crazy humid climate down here.... back to the drawing board for another patch round. I'm just fed up and ready for a perm. fix.

 

I really need to hit the entire roof with something solid that will last. I've rattle canned it as much as you can..... time for plan B.
It's not like my roof is all rusted out... there are just some places over time where the paint has flaked off...and I rattle canned it to keep it protected from the elements.
I'm not opposed to just fixing the hole the right way...and then hitting the entire roof with a coat of something that will last.

 

Scratch what I said about bondo......I used JB weld.......

The "ospho" converts rust to iron, if you don't remove or convert rust it will just eat around your repair.

You might need to sand and clean the entire roof fix any holes and get rid of the rust. Then go with a few primer coats. I am a believer in the "etching" primer. Then go over that with something to protect it from the sun and stuff.

 

A good paint job will last a lot of years, especially if you get serious and use some aircraft paint. That stuff is TOUGH. Imron? I think that's the name I remember.

Any other coating you put on there has the potential to trap moisture under it, and you know where it goes from there.


Yeah, I did a quick lookup. Imron. Do it in white and shed some heat while you're at it.

 

I'll have to look that one up.... but it will be a tough sell no matter what.... my wife has been wanting me to sell the XJ for a truck for some time now... I've refused because I love my old XJ.... so if there needs to be any kind of serious coin invested in it... not only will she look at me sideways...but might be sleeping outside...... wait... I can just put the back seat down in the Jeep.... problem solved. lol
I've had my Jeep since before we were together...soo she can't sell it...her name isn't on the title

 

Years ago I removed the factory roof rack from my '88 XJ and patched the holes with fiberglass. With proper surface prep it has held up and doesn't leak. Just a thought for inexpensive solution.

 

You said you do not care how it looks

in that case;

remove every skerrick of corrosion with a sanding disc and angle grinder wire wheel. All rusted metal must be cut away

using POR15, or 2 pack materials, cut a patch of aluminium or gal, seal the surfaces in between, then rivet the patch on.

I used POR 15, and it acts as glue, sealant and rust & moisture prevention

seal and paint it, after feathering the edges with filler

I did this once on a truck firewall/cowl that was very thin from repeated sandblasting, and impossible to weld

the repair lasted perfectly for many years until I sold it

no other method could have worked better

It was not visible to the naked eye

my mate who has been repairing buses for 50+ years uses this method, but very expensive sikaflex glue

 

The only other type of permanent repair is a sheet metal patch. Cut a round patch that exceeds the diameter of the hole by 1 inch. Drill a pattern of 1/8th inch rivet holes around the patch, equally spaced and in the center of the over-lap, close enough that the end result will be a secured patch without a lifted edge. Center the patch over the hole and mark two of them on the roof that are at or approximately 180° apart. Put some sealant on the roof where the patch will be placed and secure the patch with 2 pop rivets. Flush-style rivets (counter-sunk) would make the finished job nearly invisible. Drill the rest of the holes and finish installing the rivets. Use stainless rivets.