He can transform a pile of rusty crap into something you would be proud to enter into a car show.

 

part#s please. I have seen this done in a Amx Pacer with a 700r4 Car rolled.

 

^i'm just now machining and porting my motor, no parts yet. i've got lots of work to do still, frame almost ready to paint and so on.

but here's a link with lots of info. http://www.ajeepthing.com/stroker-motor.html

basically 4.2 crank and rods in 4.0 engine, larger fuel injectors, bored out throttle body, header and 2.5" exhaust is the route i'm goin.

 

Just got off the Phone with Hesco. They buy parts from My company for older model Muscle cars.

The parts not including gaskets or the crank or machining are $1890.

I appreciate your info.

Gene

 

thats crazy, i guess if you buy the parts that way thats about right. but i found a good 4.0 motor complete (cuz i'm changing from 4.2), so this engine has computer, wiring, alternator and all drive accessories, and it came with a newer radiator, for 500 bux. i got a 4.2 donor short block that had 3k on it for 100 bux. using rods and crank from 4.2. buying pistons and all rebuild bearings and rings from parts store, w/ gaskets performance cam isn't expensive, and machining isn't expensive. so including buying a 4.0 i'm gonna be less than $1500, and most already have a 4.0 to work with.

way cheaper than swapping in a motor though, even at 2 grand you're gonna be cheaper than swapping a v 8.

 

I think I have about 2200-2500 into my stroker.

4.7 stroker...guesstimate of about 300hp. When I get things tuned up, I can head over to the dyno. Should be some interesting pulls.

 

so yours is built and running? i would appreciate some info. did regular 4.0 main and rod bearings work? any obstacles you can worn me about?

 

Part 1...copied from a doc file I have started to document my motor.

FLO-952547 Super Delta 40 muffler
Part Number: FLO-952547
Case Shape: Oval
Inlet Diameter (in): 2.500 in.
Inlet Quantity: Single
Inlet Location: Center
Outlet Diameter (in): 2.500 in.
Outlet Quantity: Single
Outlet Location: Offset
Internal Construction: Chambered
Muffler Material: Steel
Muffler Finish: Black
Case Length (in): 13.000 in.
Overall Length (in): 19.000 in.
Thickness (in): 5.000 in.
Width (in): 10.000 in.
Outlet Style: Standard, without tip


Oil pump MEL-M167HVS
Part Number: MEL-M167HVS
Oil Pump Volume: High-volume
Oil Pump Style: Wet sump




Speed-Pro Pistons STL-h802cp60
Part Number: STL-H802CP60
Bore (in): 3.935 in.
Bore (mm): 99.949mm
Piston Style: Dish, with a D shaped cup
Piston Material: Hypereutectic aluminum
Compression Distance (in): 1.592 in.
Wrist Pin Style: Press fit
Pin Diameter (in): 0.931 in.
Piston Ring Thickness: 1.5mm x 1.5mm x 4.0mm
Ring Grooves: 4.0mm

Sealed Power Rings SLP-E-925K-60
Part Number: SLP-E-925K-60
Bore (in): 3.935 in.
Bore (mm): 99.949mm
Top Ring Included: Yes Top
Ring Thickness: 1.5mm
Second Ring Included: Yes
Second Ring Thickness: 1.5mm
Oil Ring Included: Yes
Oil Ring Thickness: 4.0mm
Oil Ring Tension: Standard
File Fit: No
Gapless: No
Top Ring Material: Iron
Top Ring Facing Material: Moly
Second Ring Material: Iron
Second Ring Facing Material: Cast iron
Oil Ring Material: Stainless steel


10.5mm firewires

CompCams. 68-232-4
RPM-Range 800-4800
Valve Timing 0.006
Duration advertised IN/EX 250/256
Duration @.050" IN/EX 206/212
Valve Lift W/1.6 rocker IN/EX .460/.476
Lobe Sep. Angle 113 degrees @ .050 Lift
Intake Centerline: 110
Lobe Lift: IN/EX 0.289 0.299

Valve Timint @ 0.0006” Lift: Open/Close
Intake 13 BTDC 56 ABDC
Exhaust 62 BBDC 13 ATDC

 

Part 2 from memory.

Hesco TPS adapter to HO throttle body (TB)
Hesco throttle body spacer...Why not it was cheap.
HO TB that I manually bored to 60mm under the butterfly
99 intake
95 fuel rail to bolt up to 99 intake and fit 1990 XJ fuel lines
Map adjuster built for $20 using dino jeep 4.0 performance links
Accel cap and rotor for the copper connectors.
NGK V-Power plugs gapped to .040
MSD coil adapted to replace stock 1990 XJ coil

4.2L crank Turned .010/.010 balanced assembly
4.2L rods turned .010 for roundness

7120 casting head
Race ported and polished. Gasket matched, short side radius reshaped for smoother runners, opened up valve maiting surface to cut down shrouding. Polished chamber to a mirror surface as well as entire exhaust runners. Removed shrouding in chamber for intake valve.

2.0 and 1.60 valves installed stainless steel swirl finish.
New valve seals
5.9 magnum springs with dampers balanced loading

New push rods.
New rockers

APN header with the 2.25 flange cut off and expanded for a 3" header flange from hooker. Tig welded on and then entire header inside and out ceramic coated.

3" exhast down pipe and exhaust pipe ceramic coated inside and out through to past the t-case. Pipe narrows to 2.5" and then into flowmaster 40 muffler and then out the rear.

Engine stuff.
Hesco water pump.
Ported goose neck for smoothing water flow.

CSF 3 row radiator.
Dual tranny coolers
powersteering low pressure hose cut and routed through CSF auto trans cooler for a powersteering fluid cooler.

Mustang 24lbs injectors used initially...then reduced to 21lbs jeep injectors (bad cps made me think 24lbs were flooding it..really didn't have enough spark...may return back to 24lbs injectors)

10 blade newer model electric fan used on manual switch for the electric fan of the radiator.

Purchased 5-90s (naxja) electric upgraded cable kit for all power lines. Installed all lines with dielectric grease and battery terminal paint.

As for the 4.2L crank...Used old harmonic ballancer and band saw to cut off the .25" spacer to align the new harmonic balancer.

Also for the 1999 intake, I used the 1999 powersteering pump and bracket. I will have to get you the serpentain belt number off the belt. I tried 7 different ones before I found the right size.

I can post more later of my rig stats...My hands are tired.

 

Oh yeah..the absolute only thing I would have changed...I would have bought forged pistons instead of the hypertectics...I don't really like hypertectics but it was the only one available when I bought my .060 over pistons.

And I polished the tops of the pistons to a mirror also and then had them weight balanced.

 

OK first what year XJ you putting it into? If it's a OBDII XJ your in a better place than you think. 2 main reasons 1- you can get Painless Wiring to build you a mating wire harness and 2- Burns Off Road can re-program your ECU for you to work with your rig wiring and the new motor..

I say do the 4.7 swap do a great write-up and it will rock..

 

thanks man, great info, so how do you like it????

 

Its a 98. I am gonna check into painless and go frum there !

 

Well...Last week I finally got it started after 1 year of sitting. Yesterday I tried to fire it up and found out my ballest resister was blown.

I adjusted the map up to 6v with 21lbs injectors and it is running really damn smooth right now.

I still have some wrenching left to get the snorkel hooked up to the TB. Also have some minor welding to do. Once all thats done, I can try to finish putting milage on it. I have 100 miles on the motor so far and it is awesome

 

I know this thread is probably long gone and dead by now but from talking to and working with technicians at dodge and one of them actually doing the hemi tj swap, the hemi actually is almost a direct swap into the 97 and newer tj and is about the same for the 97 and newer xj. Google should pull up all the info. Just my $.02